4GWED5500YW1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

To make sure the dryer didn't die catastrophically, I checked to make sure the timer, the light, and the push to start start switch and the door switch were still working. After they were diagnosed to be working properly, I unplugged the dryer and pulled it back from the wall so I would have enough room to work behind it. The first item you will need is the wiring diagram. If you do not have one, one can be obtained online by using your dryer brand and model number. The next thing you will need is a quality digital multimeter that measures resistance or continuity. The last thing you will need is a 1/4" nutdriver. The first thing you will need to do is remove the exhaust tube from the back of the dryer. The second step is to remove a small black plate located near a green ground screw. The 3rd step is to remove the large black cover on the back of the dryer. Once this is removed, you will need to locate the thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is a small component that has 2 blue wires connected to it. It is located on the housing where the steam from your clothes leads to the exhaust port. The first thing you need to do is disconnect the 2 blue wires. Once the wires are disconnected, set the multimeter to resistance. The unit of resistance is ohms and the greek letter omega is used. The red lead of your multimeter goes one metal tabe of the fuse and the black lead goes on the other one. If the multimeter measures 0. L ohms, then the fuse is bad and needs to be replaced. If the multimeter reads 00.00 ohms then the fuse is good and you have another problem. I hope these instructions were useful.

I watched the guy repair it on the video provided when i searched for the part. He made it look very easy and he explained it step by step. I ordered the part from partselect.com and 12 hours later i had the part in my hand and proceeded to replace it. Instructions and delivery were amazing. Thanks to all at partselect!!!

Followed the youtube video and it was very helpful. The repair was very simple. Just remove the lint trap, then the two screws under there, then use the putty knife to pop the two front corner clips. Disconnect power before you do anything of course..... once its all disconnected, you will see the switch. 2 Screws hold it in and then it unclips. Reverse to reassemble.

Disconnected power from dryer (safety first)! Removed bottom front panel (two screws hold it in place). Then remove the two screws that hold the sheet-metal bracket/guard in place in front of the heating element. Disconnect the two wires from the heating element terminal (white stripe wire is on top, remember for re-install purposes). Remove screw that holds heating element in place. Remove heating element from the vent housing. NOTE: The old heating element will be difficult to remove, it's a tight fit AND there's a spring on its' side that holds it tightly in place...beware that the edges are sharp; I used a pair of pliers to pull the element out in order to protect my hands. Once the old element is out, put the new one back in its' place...again watch out the edges are sharp and the element fits tightly into the vent, so if you have mechanics gloves now's the time to put them on to protect your hands, as the edges of the vent and element are sharp. Once the element is into place, secure into place with screw on left side, re-attach wires (white stripe on top terminal), put the guard back into place, close up the bottom panel, and power up.

I watched to replacement video from the website and followed. I did use the tip of a small knife to get the connector to come loose on the old switch. It was a really easy repair.

removed front lower panel and removed 2 hex screws 1/4" on front of heater tube support unplugged 2 wires hooked to heating element and 1 hex screw on side of tube that secures element and pulled the element out with pliers it comes out a little hard and then slid new element in and put it back together easy fix