41798804890 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I got online and found that everyone was charging a king's ransom for a piece of plastic. Your ransom was slightly less. Then I paid $7 shipping and handling for the part which came packed in a box six times its size...I guess all that cardboard costs a mint. I opened the box, removed the lint filter, and put it into my dryer....voila! No more holes!

first removed the 2 screws disconected the terminals, installed new switch connected wires back and test washer and it worked like new, i put a Jumper to get the washer to work while i got the parts. Also i received the parts in 24 hrs. Thank You.

i took out the two back screws lift the top.
took the two bottom front screws , lifted andtook off the front panel.took off the old belt an intall the new one in a circular motion put the panel and top back on and done.

I removed the bolt holding the agitator in the tub and lifted the agitator out. There seemed to be a part near the top that was not engaging. I decided to order a replacement to see if that was the problem (my local repairman had guessed the problem was in the transmission and said I should just replace the machine.) I ordered the part online and it arrived in only two days. I was very happily surprised by the speed with which I received the part. I put the new agitator in, tightened the bolt and ran a load of clothes. All worked perfectly

First pry up on the front edge of the top panel of the dryer which is held in place by snap in clips. Pivot the top open and support against wall or other taking care not to pull on wiring harness. Next remove the 2 screws that hold the front panel in place. These are located on the inside of the front panel. The front then snaps loose also. Remove the plastic drum stop located at the top edge of the front of the dryer. Next I removed the 3 drum screws located inside at the back center of the dryer. Next you can you need to remove the belt the motor located at the rear vent panel on the back. Slide the now loose drum out exposing the rear bearing. With a 5/16 end wrench, loosen the 2 screws on either side of the bearing retainer. Assemble the new bearing bracket to match the old one. Apply a liberal amount of supplied lubricant to the pivot ball and plastic retainer. At this point it was helpful to have someone at the rear of the dryer hold the new retainer bracket against the back of the dryer while I tightened the new bearing assembly in. Assemble dryer in reverse.

Received lid lock within 24 hours, fixed washer within 10 minutes...up and running. Thanks.

this problem resulted from the belt gone bad so here I replace both ( belt & motor )
FIRST OF ALL DISCONNECT APPLIANCE
1. removing back acces panel to the motor (10" X 10" louver ) 2 screws
2. removing the front door by
a) removing the front panels between washer/dryer
b) removing front control panel 6 screws, pushing downward the panel and disconnecting all electrical junctions
c) remove (2) plastic plugs holding the lint collector from the door ( under the lint screen) using pliers.
d) removing 2 screws at bottom of door (previously covered by front panel) and 4 screws holding down the top panel and the door panel.
3. removing the blower housing 6 screws, + one on the exaust tubing, followed by the blower fan first removing the metal clip with pliers then (by inserting very small (2) screwdrivers under) its locking shaft (the 2 smaller of the 3 sections )you can slip the fan out.
4. removing the back panel of the fan housing 3 screws
5. removing the front and back motor holding clips (pliers) and disconnecting its electrical connector.
GIVE YOUR VACCUUM CLEANER A RIDE
Reinstalation is the reverse process, for the motor and the blower then just slip the belt over the drum (from the front) treading it into its motor wheel (through rear access panel) and tensioning it, replace al the open panel reconnecting all electrical connectors and don't forget to reconnect the clear pastic tubing into its switch actuator.

I did spend more than two hours as I had to explore first the whole assembly, now that I know it two hour should be more than enough, if you follow my instructions and you are a little handy 2 hour should be it.

Removed 2 screws at bottom of the front panel - removed front panel by sliding the panel down about 1/2 inch and then away from the appliance- v belt is removed by pushing the tensioner pulley to remove tension from the belt and turning the pulley untill the belt is removed instalation is a simple reverse of the process. I did't have a repair manual so every step was trial and error untill I was able to complete the repair.

I got online and figured out exactly how to take off the front of the washer and then how to replace the belt. It was so easy. The part itself arrived much sooner than predicted. It fit perfectly and my washing machine is now running smoothly and quietly.

I read the others repair story and it was a easy repair, my wife had a repairman come out and check it already, he stated to her that it was a major repair and that he needed to take it to the shop for repair, well he was full of sh##!!! The unit is a stackable washer dryer,if the screws inside the drum backout, the belt comes off and caused mine to brake the belt,my wife found the 2 small screws in the bottom of the tub,theres a small cover on the back that you remove and you can see belt drive pully! Follow the directions that have been explained on others listed it"s easy!!! Mike

My washing machine stopped agitating and spinning and I couldn't afford a repair man...plus I wanted to exhaust any obvious problems first. One of the leveler feet had broken years ago. Since I luckily had determined via reading other posts that the agitator won't work if the cycle safety switch is not functioning right, I thought the safety switch might need to be changed but after careful thought, I decided to order a new levelling leg first because maybe the broken levelling leg was shaking the safety switch so it wasn't connecting right. Once I received the leg overnight, I flipped the washer on its side and had to drill out the old leg. It was a little tricky because of how it broke, but the drill worked. I flipped the washer back up, leveled it with the new foot, and the agitator was miraculously working again...just like new. I didn't need the safety switch. Thanks to partselect.com for having the details of my washer parts to study up on and get me the right part so quickly. I saved myself alot of money.

After turning the water off and removing the hoses,I pulled the top off by removing the 2 screws from the clips in the back and popping the 2 spring clips in the front. I then removed the 2 side screws left and right to allow room for the sides to move out of the way of the motor. The back panel is spot welded so the panels stayed connected. I then removed the 2 screws from the water overflow guard on the motor. Once removed I unplugged the wire harness from the motor. After that the 4 nuts were taken off of the bottom of the motor. I pushed the belt tensioner in and pulled the motor out. Install the motor making sure the nuts are tight as they can work loose from vibration.

Checked problem on-line and discovered it was the water inlet valve. Matched the part on part select. Com. Finding the part was very easy. Part select had a grid behind the picture to help determine the size and pictures from all sides. Removing the old part, matching it, and replacement took a total of 30 minutes. I now have clean clothes.

After moving machine to an area that allowed easy access to the unit, disconnected the water supply hoses from the inlet valve.
Removed the two screws that keep the back in place, removed the clips that keep the top in place, moved the top over far enough to get the valve out. Removed the screw that keeps the inlet valve in place, disconnected the power supply to the valve, Pulled valve out in order to remove the water outlet hose. Repalced with new vale, and reversed order to install. Works just fine now.

Happened to slam the lid by mistake and the washer started spinning. Recognized the lid lock was working haphazzardly. Also, there was a burning type odor coming from the switch. So I lifted the lid top and disconnected the switch from the lid by unscrewing 2 screws and 4 wires. When I received the new switch, I reinstalled it with 2 screws and reconnected the 4 wires.