3UMTW5955TW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Replaced the clutch, works like a dream...easy to install & the best part was..that I had the part within 2days standard mail..thanks parts select!!

from Missouri

EXACTLY as per instruction. Only trouble was getting cabinet re- installed properly. Bottom tangs were deformed and not catching. First rate parts and instruction! Thanks for making it possible. KL Lowery

Watched video instructions and replaced the clutch like I've been doing it for years. The repair took about 30 minutes. The video was extremely helpful !!!!

All I had to do was follow the instructions on your web site and it was pretty easy.. The only reason it took so long was because my washer is in a spot hard to get to... I had to remove the dryer to get to the washer and then take it out of the laundry room to work on it. Other than the time it took to do that the actual repair only took 40 minutes. Your video of the repair was excellent... Thanks so much.. Saved at least $500 by replacing the clutch...

I just watched the video but I didn't take the sides of I just laid it on its back and worked from the bottom. it works like a new.

Removed the bolt holding the agitator and then tipped the washer on its side and remove the water pump from the motor before removing the motor/agitator assembly. Take the retainer clip from the shaft and the retainer spring from the clutch.

my son did the repair

removed agitator bolt from trans shaft
turned wachine on its back
removed 3 trans bolts-wires from clip-2 hoses
removed motor & trans from machine
removed locks that hold clutch
changed clutch
re assembled

As best described in the clutch DIYs, removed the enclosure, unclipped the water pump, motor and elec. harness to check the coupling. The bushing separated from the plastic fingers which caused the squealing. Checked the gearbox and it turned for a limited amount before jamming. Ordered new gearcase and clutch (since it was over 10 yrs. old.), and a coupling. (Gearcase comes with half a coupling, so check if req'd for motor shaft.)
For ease of removing and re-installing the motor it is best the machine lays on its back. This way the grommets and coupling can be easily aligned on the face-plate without having to manually support the weight of the motor. In the tub, unsnap two agitator caps. The inner one has no tabs to break so pry and pull on the "ears". Use 7/16" socket wrench with extension to unscrew the bolt holding agitator to gear shaft end. Assuming the motor and face-plate are still off, unscrew the three screws holding the gearcase in place and slide it out. Before installing the new clutch onto the new gear shaft, slide the plastic thrust spacer? (in kit but not shown in any instructions) down the shaft, observing which is the correct side. Check for correct clutch spring, as per instructions. Slide clutch, open side up, down the shaft. Instal wire retainer (this can be tricky) and circlip. if the brake assembly slid down while sliding out the gear shaft, squeeze its spring with a pipe wrench and push it back up (with rubber mallet). The clutch kit comes with a plastic pawl? which mounts under the brake and mates with the clutch. If the locating pins for the old part are broken off, drill them out of their holes so the new part fits snug. Insert the gear shaft up the brake sleeve into the agitator so their splines mate. Screw gear case to its mounts, agitator to shaft end (not too tight here) and snap on caps. Screw on face-plate, replace coupling on motor shaft (if req'd.), set motor on face-plate, aligning the coupling and checking the grommets fit in their holes. Instal motor holding clips (with screws), mount water pump with its holding clips, and wire harnesses. Stand up machine and replace enclosure, back panel and hoses.
Replacing the gearcase was easy. Because of space limitations, removing and replacing the enclosure, etc. was a b**** that took most of my time. And watch the lid doesn't fall on your fingers!

After seeing video it was easy . Took everything apart tub,basket,replaced all springs. Tub wear pads. It took longer because I cleaned eveything,took my time. There was a lot of deposits on tub and outer tub also some rust . Put it all back together all nice and clean . pluged it in put it in spin cycle and the motor just hummed. I than check to see if somethig was stuck no .Pulled motor tested it with out a load and did not work. Motor start winding went. Motor died. 2n one in 7 years. So I fixed that proplem I am a new owner of a Speed Queen washer and dryer .

Watch the video on the part ordering webpage.

Took the cabinet apart really easily with Part Selects helpful video. Removed old suspension springs by removing outer brackets on two of them and by using pliers on the third one. The tub spring was totally missing. Put on two new brackets and springs with the nut driver. Then stretched the third spring into place. Replaced the tub spring by stretching into place and then put cabinet back together. All done very quickly!!! Now it works perfectly and runs very quietly.

First, unplug the unit. Remove the two screws on each side of the control panel on the back. They are located at the top corners of the unit. The base is held on by clips you press in on from the bottom. You will have to reach in over the tub and press in on clips, one each on the far side. At the left, you will be able to feel the lid switch, the clip is just to the left of the switch. It is about ½ inch wide, press firmly with your thumb. You may want to wear glove for this unless you like battle scars. Once done the control panel should hinge up. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire harness to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. Open the lid and the switch pulls right out. The new switch drops right in. Attach the wire harness and grounding wire. Place the control panel back side first at an angle making sure the back metal panel is lined up, once in place it should snap back in place when pressed down firmly. You might have to reach in over the tub again and pull the clip down (keep Band-Aids on hand). Plug the unit back in and you are good to go. Raise and close the lid, you should here the switch click on and off.

Broken lid switch. The BIG problem was trying to figure out how to remove the control panel. There was no screws on the back top corners nor two screws at the bottom corners. The front end caps was not removal either. Finally I found on the internet that if you slide a putty knife under front corner of the control panel you can push back the spring clip on each that will allow the panel to be removed and lifted up. From there the lid switch is located on the left side and is easy to replace from this point forward. You can read other instructions on details on replacing the lid switch.

I researched the troubleshooting on PartSelect.com and determined the clutch was going out on my direct drive Whirlpool washer. I ordered the part, found the instructional video that actually had my exact washer being worked on, I followed all of the steps of replacing the clutch and in a snap, my washer was spinning. I've worked in apartment maintenance for years and PartsSelect.com has always been my only resource for appliance parts and repairs. The prices are great (I've compared most parts websites and 8 times out of 10, partsselect.com is cheapest), the shipping is extremely fast and the parts are alway right. Great site!!!!