3RAWZ481EML1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Removed the back panel, found the fuse and replaced it. Easiest thing I've ever done! I was expecting it not to be the problem, but I started with the "most common" issue via the website. Voila...it was the problem!

little more than vedio showed has a see thru door had to tke door off machine then was easy replacement and re install

Unlike your video, with this model, the thermal fuse is located near the front of the dryer, which I didn't find out until the back was already off.

I watched the online video first, which made the removal and installation fast and easy.

we received the two heating element wires in 3 days and connected the heating element with no problem works great.

went online to whirlpool typed in my problem and. was directed me to Partselect which said it was thermal fuse and had picture where it was located and how to replace,easy as that.thank you PartSelect.Tim

Removed back panel to get to inside. Removed drum etc to replace drum rollers (ordered repair kit also), replaced the idler pulley etc, now like new. Repair successful!!!! Thank you!

First I watched Partselect's wonderful videos on what could cause the dryer from having to use multiple cycles to dry and the parts involved. I then took the back of the dryer off and tested all three parts with a multi-meter to determine which part had no resistance. The thermal fuse did not register any thing, so I ordered the part and a few days later put it in. The dryer dries in just one cycle saving on the cost of repair and electric bill. Partselect.com is my first go to sight for any repair. They make it so simple and comprehensive that any one can do the repair. I then used duct tape to make a secure connection to the duct pipe in order for it to properly vent to the outside.

Previously I had repaired two washing machines and now a dryer, which is why my mom nick named me Josephine. So ladies you can make the repairs as well.

Had a lot of trouble getting front panel off. Check You Tube for directions. Checked heating coils and thermostats and found they were OK. Cleaned lint from fan and replaced thermostats although they may not have needed it (thermal cut-off kit). Put panel back and it works. See YouTube to see how to check coil and thermostats. They may check but if something is wrong it is either them or the control board. Thermal Cut-Off Kit is much cheaper.

Remove the exhaust tubing connection and the back panel (five nut screws). Locate the fuse; it is just to the right of the lint trap shoot, midway between the top and bottom of the back panel area. Replacement is visually intuitive.

I ordered the part, watched the video and made the repair in less than thirty minutes. This was much cheaper than purchasing a new dryer.

Pull off the front panel of the dryer, and replaced the thermal fuse. Very easy. Plus, vacuumed out the whole inside of the dryer, the rear and the tube running from the dryer to the outside. Will be doing this at least every 3 months to be safe. You would be surprised at how much lint builds up inside the machine. Eve though we clean the filter trap after every use of a load of clothes.

Remove the back cover from the dryer after unplugging unit from electrical outlet. Remove the belt by moving tension arm. Remove the tension spring (by hand). Remove the idler pulley bracket with a nut driver. Remove the Tri-Star retaining clip with a screw driver. Remove the old idler pulley. Remove old washer... replace with new washer and idler pulley... I could have reused the tri star retaining clip but elected to use new one. Put arm back on, re-hook spring, realign belt, put back cover back on... dry clothes.