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F1 code and oven wouldn't operate
I was told by appliance repairman that sensor and electronic panel were out - so ordered both as PartSelect was less expensive (about 1/2) than service call price. Sensor was in stock and arrived in 2 days, panel was special order from factory. Replaced the sensor. Pressed Control Lock pad for several seconds and oven clock came on. Was able to set baking temp, broiler, and convection operation as normal. Canceled order on panel as Sensor fixed my problem.
SHUT OFF BREAKER FOR OVEN! pulled oven out to get at backside,removed 3 screws on back coverplate,removed 2 screws inside oven at sensor in top left corner of oven,disconnected plastic clip at back ,pulled old sensor through hole.replaced sensor with new in reverse order. 15minutes tops.
slide out upper protective sheet metal protector. it is loose and can contirbute to the element failure from door closing.
remove rear element screws,and upper support screws. slide out upper element.
do not cut the wires, they contain mating plug to element. use pliers to pull apart the male-female plug on element wires.
reverse procedure to install, use old extra screws on upper metal protector to prevent loose rubbing on upper element. there are holes for this no drilling required.
I removed the two screws that attach the sensor to the oven wall. Then removed to more screws in the back of the oven and took off the rear cover, diconnected the sensor connector and installed the new sensor.
When the oven was turned on, F2 and F4 came on. Oven wouldn't heat.
After reading some of the repair stories, I was hesitant about doing this task. It was really very simple, I just removed the screws from the back of the stove, and removed the old element. I then replaced it with the new one and replaced the back cover. This whole task from start to finish took 10 minutes. The oven heats perfectly now just like a new oven.
Had to unplug unit, remove back of unit (6 screws), then unscrew oven sensor (2 screws), then unplugged old sensor, replaced it and put back of oven on...Moving the oven out and working in the tight space avaialble was the most difficult. Other than that, super easy job that probably saved me a lot of $$$...
Removed 7 screws on sides and one on top of stove. Replaced both springs (only one was broken but did both). Took around 15 to 30 minutes from start to finish.Fastest shipping in history during holidays without paying anything extra.
Stove top wouldn't come on. Oven couldn't go higher than low heat
Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00 Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine. Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.
oven temperature not reaching setting/temp. up and down
Removed back of stove, removed screws from sensor inside oven, unplugged connector from back of stove, pulled sensor out through oven; installed new sensor, replaced back of stove. Set the oven to bake, waited for it to pre-heat; the oven thermometer showed that the same problem was occurring, the sensor replacement didn't work.
After shutting the main valve behind stove. Removed all shelves and rear cover from stove. Unplugged the plug to the sensor. Removed the two mounting screws and pulled the old sensor out. Installed new sensor and plugged it in again. After reinstalling the rear cover and shelves, replugged in power, openned the gas valve behind the stove and tested with soapy water to make sure there wasn't ant developed leaks. Turned on oven with a test thermometer in it. Monitored operation and now oven temperature is roughly 10 to 20 degrees to the setpoint.
First pulled the oven out and noticed how dirty the floor was underneath. Bachelors are BAD housekeepers. Next I removed the oven door (just slides off the hinges) to make it easier to reach in and unscrew the two screws holding the sensor in place in the upper left back of oven. Screws came out easily. Then I removed the back panel by removing the six screws holding it in place. I unsnapped the temp sensor wiring connection, then pulled the probe out from the front (inside the oven). Installed the new probe by feeding the wires and connector through from the front (inside the oven) and attached it with the two screws. Then went to the back again, snapped the wiring connectors together, and replaced the back panel. Then I scrubbed the floor, pushed the range back in place, reinstalled the door, and gave it a test run. PERFECTION! Heated to within five degrees of setting. EASIEST REPAIR JOB I'VE EVER DONE!
The F3 error code displayed and beeped during use of the oven and oven shut down.
My husband and I began to pull the oven out and I realized that it was too heavy for me to hold. Luckily we were able to get another man to help. Other than that it was easy. Also, it took us awhile to figure out which screws secured the oven into the cabinet. We saved over $1000.00 on a new oven and installation. Kudos to everyone who added their comments! They gave us courage to give it a try.
remove plate, gasket, & light cover then light. .Replace light. Put gasket on plate , insert cover. TAPE PLATE TO COVER ,then screw all in place, remove tape.
