36371542410 Kenmore Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

Take out the two screws holding the top on with the door open remove top and remove two small screws in top front corners. I replaced the 4 slides and the drum bearing without the new felt, do not do this it continued to squeek after it ran the first few times when i got the new felt a week later i installed it in ten minuites and the noise is gone. I think it cost around sixty dollars and my dryer is back in action. Make sure that you clean all of the lint out of the inside of your dryer I had alot of build up near the chute for the lint trap.

I followed the directions I found on my tablet on youtube.

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Removed two screws, lifted the top, removed two more screws and tilted the front panel. The worn parts were accessible, and I simply placed the new parts in. It worked. A little trouble placing the top back in the slots, but a fist whack did the job.

Replace both micro switches.

Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..

Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.

Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.

Removed 4 #1 Philips screws from 1side and add to the other side.

Removed 2 screws to remove top. Removed 2 other screws to remove front. Removed old parts. Installed new parts. Reassemble all afetr cleaning duct work out.

The gentleman knew what the problem was, sent the right part, and I looked like I was smart.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.