3634272790 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

Removed by slightly wiggling out of the coupling. No tools needed, seriously, (and I'm a contractor). Basically, pull out and snap back in.

I removed old 8" surface element and terminal block. Some of old wiring had to be cut off because of harding/cracking of old wiring. Stove was 23 years old and this burner was the most frequently used one. I soldered the new and remaining old wires together. I used the shirnk wrap that came with the terminal block to cover the solder joint. I screwed the new terminal block (one screw holds it in place - used same screw from old terminal block that was removed). I finished by inserting the new surface element. Everything works fine. In the next week or two after we use it a while, I will check wiring again to make sure there are no changes. You need to be very careful as it gets very hot under the burner.

Downdraft stove is over 20 years old, but everything else works fine and it would be a real pain to replace it.

This quick-heat back burner is part of a two burner plug- in unit which takes up half of the top of the stove.

I removed the top from the rest of the unit easily removing five screws. Because of the age and long use it was tough getting the old nut off which holds on the disc, but with the help of some spray lubricant it came off. The old wire ends were also rusted, and to get them off I bent up the old holder, which was going to be discarded anyhow. It was a simple matter to plug in the new unit, tighten the nut, clean up the lubricant with a paper towel, and reassemble the unit, which I cleaned inside since it was dusty. After plugging in the unit I turned on the burner...it works like new and has saved me a very costly replacement. I like it so much that even though the front element works perfectly I am considering buying that disc too just so they will match. Finding your company was absolutely great, and I would recommend you to anyone looking for parts. I still have the manual for this stove so I would feel confident in replacing pretty much any part needed....not bad for a 72 year old woman, (My Dad taught me to do my own work and I am a passable carpenter and plumber; a little more wary when it's something electrical !

There was nothing to it...I unplugged the Sufrace Elements from thier bases, removed the Drip Bowls, replaced the Drip Bowls and then plugged the Surface Elements back in to thier bases. The entire process could not have taken more than two minutes.

First thing to do is to KILL THE POWER. The last thing you want is for two leads feeding power to a range coil burner "hot" when you are working on them. After power is off, I removed the coils and set them aside. The terminals had "fried" apparently from to much cooking with hot oils and having the "over splash" working its way down to where the coils plug into the terminals and over time the oil getting in the terminals causes shorting / frying of the leads / contacts.

Anyway, after removing the heat coils I removed the drip pans and cleaned up the area underneath before working on terminals. I like a clean area when I work. I then unscrewed the "brackets" that house the terminals with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled out the assembly.

To completely remove the assembly I cut with a straight razor the existing heat shrink around the wire nuts (These two had been replaced once before. On first go around, I just cut the terminal assembly off and stripped the wire to attach the new terminals). Then I removed the wire nuts and the old assembly. After that I trimmed the wire to the correct length on the new terminal assembly and checked that the wire from the stove was in good shape. Upon confirming I had a good lead, I connected the new terminal leads to the stove leads and put the heat shrink over the connections. I used a lighter to "shrink" the heat shrink to the new connection (not having a proper heat shrink gun, which most of us don't have, the lighter works well as long as you are careful and do not let the lighter heat up to much. Let the lighter cool (esp. if a plastic disposable type or it will melt and ruin the lighter or burn your fingers).

After that I cleaned the area where the terminal block bracket connects to the stove (it gets a bit gunked up over time) before screwing in the new bracket / assembly in place with my screwdriver.

I gave the drip pans a good cleaning, adjusted the new terminal brackets so they were even / centered, cleaned once more the area under the drip pan and replaced the drip pans. The types of pans I have are one piece with a hole for the heat coil leads to go through.

Before placing the coils back in the terminals I took a strip of medium grade, 220 grit, sand paper (you could use steal wool or small wire brush) and cleaned the terminal leads (the steal end that plugs into the terminal only, careful not to damage the burner). This was needed as the leads had accumulated some residue from the same dynamics that caused the burning / melting of the terminal leads and terminal block. Once the leads were clean I fitted them into the place in the new terminal blocks and drip pan grooves.

Finally I turned back on the breaker to the stove and cranked on the burners to test out the connection and that everything was working A-OK.

Job done:-)

The burners were not level and would heat more on one side than the other. Since the range was 21 years old and would cost a lot to replace, I decided to replace the burners and
treat myself to new drip bowls. I Googled and got the information on the range including part numbers. I ordered them and am very happy. It was very easy to replace the old ones. Only problem the large drip bowl was dented but on sending an email to compamy, a new one is being sent. I am very happy at the ease since I am a retired widow of 76 years old. It pays some time to take care of the old and do a little reapair instead of spending a lot of money on relacement when every thing else is in excellent condition.
Thanks for making this a very easy experience.

I lifted out the burners and took out the old drip pans ans then replaced the burners. However the 8 inch pans were bigger than the old ones and they do not fit properly. They are sitting on top of the stove and not inserted like they should be. I will have to look elsewhere to find ones that fit.

I handed it to my wife and she slipped it in.

Removed old surface burners and replaced them by plugging in the new surface burners. Now they work GREAT! Parts ordered and received with-in 3 business days. Fed EX delivered parts in good order very quickly. We recommend PartSelect.com

This burner element is the large element of a 2 element modual.
After removing the modual, there was 6 small metal screws to open the modual to expose the burner elements. After the burner element were exposed there are 2 wires that had to be disconected with a screw driver. Once the wires are disconnecter the burner element is easy removed by sliding the old element out and sliding the new element in. Just reconect the wires to the new element and put the cover back on with the 6 metal screws. It took about 30 minutes to complete the task, taking time to clean all the insides to bring it back to new condition. Very very easy job.

Unplug coil, remove pan - place new pan, plug in new element and bingo. Took approximately 30 seconds!

Removed existing surface element and replaced with new element.

P.S.

Part Select service was excellent.

Disconnect power to burner module. Dissassemble module with nut driver. Screws connecting feed wires to burner were too corroded to remove. Cut wire close to screws, stripped insulation and inserted new ends into new burner. Reassembled module with nut drivers.

I first removed the unit by pulling gently from connection. Replaced the new one in that same manner - simply inserting into connection.

Very easy, I'll probably try it again soon.

simple remove the old one, strip old wires to make longer, twist wires together, put on wire nuts.