36275990000 Kenmore Range - Instructions

By myself

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

Pull range away from back wall. Remove panel behind control knobs by removing the screws that hold it on. Find hot burner light that holds lens. Remove broken part of lens. Insert new lens into hole on front of control panel and into hot burner light receptacle. Replace back panel. Slide range back into place.

Easy

My son lifted up cooktop, unscrewed the front plate to gain access to old tube burners, removed and replaced with new parts.

Remove the old tubes. Lift the lid NO MORE THAN FOUR INCHES. !!!!! Feel for the connections on the switch ends and attach losely. Carefully ( with some slight bending ) attach tubes to the burners. Tighten all connections. Do not over tighten.
The tubes broke originaly because , attempting to clean the area I lifted the lid too high.

There was no wiring harness available so we removed the block and connected all wires (with some additional wire due to the chewing). After all that, the repair went quite well. Parts arrived in about 3 days....everything's back up and running.
Thanks again for your help and prompt service!
Carol

Remove the door. Just open a little and pull up. Removed racks. Removed 3 screws with nutdriver. Pulled out housing. Disconnected 2 wires. Assembled new housing with with bulb receptacle and gasket. Reconnected wires and crimped a little to make them snug. Pushed housing back into hole. Put 3 screws back in, inserted bulb and cover. Slid door back on and done. 30 minutes at most.

Removed oven convection fan cover for more room to remove/replace lower oven bottom. Deflector is attached underneath oven bottom and you will need new self tapping sheet metal screws to replace old ones. My deflector actually had hole melted in it from glowbar igniter directly underneath it. Glowbar remains white hot until selected oven temp is reached...poorly designed.

popped the new one on!

Removed burner and replaced

nothing to it.

Slide out oven door. Remove handle screw and handle. Pick up white insulation. Remove screws to the door gasket. Replace new Door Gasket. It had to te streched to fit. I wish that the new door gasket would be 2 in. longer so it would be easier to install.

Installation was very quick and simple. Removed wire connector for the igniter then hex screws for the bake tube. Attached the new igniter to the new bake tube and reinstalled in oven. 15 mins. I took the extra time to clean the oven pan and heat shields. Removed old charred baking spills and grease buildup. Oven is 12 years old and working like brand new.

The only tool needed was a nutdriver to remove the lamp socket. I needed my head mounted light to see what I was doing, and everything went smoothly from there. Simple job.