3627516191 Kenmore Range - Instructions

Assumed the entire top of the range would have to be lifted off. Removed the three screws inside the top of the over door and then noticed the two screws holding the dish around the burner. They were tight and required WD-40 and then a sharp tap and came off.
Important: Notice the direction your old igniter is plugged into the wire. It is not clear and can go on either way.

Unplug the electrical power first. Remove the drawer from the bottom of the stove. Then you can unplug the two wires that go to the ignitor. Inside the stove, remove the bottom cover plate by removing two screws at the back. You may need to loosen them with a flat screwdriver first. The ignitor has two screws that hold it to the long tubular part where the gas burns. There are two screws at the back which hold the tubular part (and one screw at the front). I removed the tubular part by removing these three screws. Then you can remove the ignitor, compare it to the new one to make sure it's the right part. Cut off the wires from the old part so you can use the same connectors. Splice these wires onto the new part, and insulate them with tape. Replace the ignitor onto the "tubular part" and attach it back into the oven. Plug the wires in, replace the bottom cover and drawer, plug the range back in and test it out. Mine worked great on the first try. The hard part is reaching to the back of the oven to remove (and re-install) the two screws that hold the "tubular part".

Followed previous posts, just took out the metal pan (2) 1/4" head screws. Removed the ignitor bracket (2) 1/4" head screws. Disconnected the existing ceramic wirenuts. Removed the ignitor from the bracket......this was the hardest part as the self threading screw stripped out in the sheet metal. Took some time to remove that screw and re-tap the hole to #10-32. Once that was done used a #10-32 x 1/2" machine screw with lock washer. All went back together fine from there.

I put the grates in backwards and the wife had to turn them around after teasing me about it......maybe I should do more baking.......

removed the gas burner which allowed easy access to undo the old igniter.
opened the wire hatch in the back of the oven cavity, and also took off the cover (two screws) on the back panel to allow access to the igniter connector.
I cut the wires to the old igniter, leaving lots of wire, stripped the wire, and then hooked up the new igniter using the supplied ceramic / hi-temp twist on connectors.
then just closed up everything in reverse.
helps to take off oven door, and you need access to the back side of the oven.

My Hotpoint gas oven became extremely hot after using it . Only after unplugging the electrical cord, turned it off. Replacing the control valve (thermostat) solved the problem. The stove top had to be pried up with a flat screw driver then propped up. Prying off the oven control valve revealed two mounting screws (philips head). Next remove thermostat sensor bulb inside oven at back wall. Remove old thermostat control and bulb assembly. Installation is reverse order of disassembly.

removed two screws with screw driver,and replaced panel

0) Unplug oven and shut off gas at the valve behind oven.
1) removed oven door (no tools required)
2) Removed enamed steel oven bottom (2 thumbscrews, push back, pull out)
3) Removed base panel on outside of oven (some might have a warming or storage drawer)
4) From bottom, removed heat shield to allow access to underside of igniter -- 4 sheet metal screws, use 1/4" nutdriver
5) Now you should see all of the igniter, along with its wiring. One lead goes to a spade lug, the other uses a white nylon connector. Unplug igniter.
6) Using 1/4" nut driver, unscrew igniter from below. This is probably the toughest part of the job.
7) Once igniter is removed, put the bad igniter and the new igniter side by side. The leads on the replacement igniter are probably not going to be long enough (I ran into this), so clip the leads from the old igniter at the bas of the igniter and splice into the leads from the new igniter. After stripping the lead ends, I used a barrel splicer, but a wire nut or an inline splice with some heatshrink tubing or cloth electrical tape should also work fine.
8) Reverse steps above to install.

The igniter apparently controls the gas flow, so if the igniter doesn't get hot, the gas won't flow. In other words, be careful, but don't worry too much about having to worry about gas leaks, etc. In the end, it wasn't all that difficult, but I'm pretty good at home repair stuff. If you have a hard time plugging in a toaster, you should probably call a repairman.

IF YOU DONT FEEL COMFORTABLE WORKING WITH NATURAL GAS APPLIANCES PLEASE CONTACT A REPAIR MAN. TURN OFF GAS LINE FEEDING INTO STOVE. IF YOU CANNOT SHUT OFF THE GAS LINE FEEDING INTO STOVE CONTACT A REPAIR MAN!!!!!!

Open bottom broiler drawer. Remove trays. Remove broiler drawer. Remove bolts holding heat sheild from back of oven (mine only had 2 bolt/screws holding 2 heat shields covering safty valve). Remove Heat shield. Unscrew 3/8" gas line feeding into safty valve on right. Remove 3 bolt/screws hold safety valve on back of oven. Remove Safty valve from oven. Unscrew Mounting Nut from old valve and place on new valve. Remount the new safty valve. Re-attach 3/8" gas line feeding into saftly valve. Replace heat sheild. Replace broiler drawer. Replace racks on broiler drawer. close Stove. Turn gas back on. Make sure you dont smell gas (I would wait at least 15 minutes before turning stove on to make sure there is no gas leak).

my husband who is very handy took it a part, replaced the glass and put it back together - he did remove the door from the oven first and put it on the counter to work on it.
I had the schematic picture of the door ready in case he needed it. He didn't really.

The R&R of the defective thermostat was at first look relatively simple. The job was made more complicated because in order to remove the old thermostat and then route the new thermostat across the top of the stove, under the burners, and down through a small hole into the oven space I had to remove the whole top of the stove. This process is not hard, just time consuming. Be very careful of razor sharp edges, they make you bleed. The final calibration of the oven is an easy adjustment in the oven knob. All in all it was an good experience.



Lyle Nelson

I removed all the burner heads with a torx driver & released the top of the stove by pushing in two clips with a screwdriver. I raised the top and located the thermostat as it fed through back of stove, then tied a line to the old thermostat to be used to pull the new one through. This did not work, so I removed a cover on the back of stove to provide more room & spread insulation apart so i could see hole. I was able to easily feed new thermostat through hole and reassemble.

After receiving the part ordered in one day, I removed the racks and the bottom flame spreader. The igniter assy. is held in by two screws, which only took a minute to remove. I removed the ceramic wire ties from, the old igniter and wire tied in the new one. Put everything back together and tested the oven. It works great again. Thanks for the quick response and delivery.

First I removed the pan drawer. Then I removed the metal cover under the stove. Not sure if you have to remove that or not. I think I could have left that on. I then looked inside the oven and removed the two screws in the back to remove the lower cover. Ahh, the hot surface ignitor and flame grill exposed. I then turned on the oven again to make sure the hot surface ignitor was not glowing. I went back underneath, and disconnected the hot surface ignitor. I followed the wires from it to where it was connected. I then unscrewed the 2 screws that held the flame grill in place. Next, I went back in the oven and removed the flame grill with the hot surface ignitor still attached. I then unscrewed the hot surface ignitor and replace it with the new one. Key points: make sure you mark which wire had which connector, or only cut one at a time. Also, they do not come with new clips, so don't cut you wire too short. I then fed the wires and the base of the flame grill back down the slot, rescrewed the flame grill to the oven, attached the wires, and turned on the oven to make sure it worked. I finally replaced the lower plate inside the oven, the lower plate under the oven, put the drawer back in and I was done.

Repair was quite easy. Remove four screws and lay back sheet metal panel. Transfer wires from one module to the other and then put new module in place. replaced the sheetmetal panel. Spark now presen at all burners. One small thing worth mentioning. Each burner has a gas distrubution cap and that cap has a small hole to the spark cavity. One of these was pluged with grease and that kept the burner from lighting until this hole was cleared.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.