Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Gas smell in Broiler and Stove when all controls to off
IF YOU DONT FEEL COMFORTABLE WORKING WITH NATURAL GAS APPLIANCES PLEASE CONTACT A REPAIR MAN. TURN OFF GAS LINE FEEDING INTO STOVE. IF YOU CANNOT SHUT OFF THE GAS LINE FEEDING INTO STOVE CONTACT A REPAIR MAN!!!!!!
Open bottom broiler drawer. Remove trays. Remove broiler drawer. Remove bolts holding heat sheild from back of oven (mine only had 2 bolt/screws holding 2 heat shields covering safty valve). Remove Heat shield. Unscrew 3/8" gas line feeding into safty valve on right. Remove 3 bolt/screws hold safety valve on back of oven. Remove Safty valve from oven. Unscrew Mounting Nut from old valve and place on new valve. Remount the new safty valve. Re-attach 3/8" gas line feeding into saftly valve. Replace heat sheild. Replace broiler drawer. Replace racks on broiler drawer. close Stove. Turn gas back on. Make sure you dont smell gas (I would wait at least 15 minutes before turning stove on to make sure there is no gas leak).
Burners were burning the pans and flames coming out at all different angles of the burner
The toughest part of the repair was the preparation to remove the old burners. As a result of the burning there was a carbon residue on the burners, on the gas outlet feed to the burners. This took some scrubbing and removing the carbon residue. Bits had burned onto the outlet and had to be scrapped off. Once all cleaned, replacing the burners was easy just had to place the balancing nuts in place and put on the burners. One problem arose the hood of the stove did not go back in place after replacing the burners so I then removed the balancing nuts put back on the burners stove top hood fit back in place and burners operated properly. This part of the repair took five minutes.
After receiving the part ordered in one day, I removed the racks and the bottom flame spreader. The igniter assy. is held in by two screws, which only took a minute to remove. I removed the ceramic wire ties from, the old igniter and wire tied in the new one. Put everything back together and tested the oven. It works great again. Thanks for the quick response and delivery.
First I removed the pan drawer. Then I removed the metal cover under the stove. Not sure if you have to remove that or not. I think I could have left that on. I then looked inside the oven and removed the two screws in the back to remove the lower cover. Ahh, the hot surface ignitor and flame grill exposed. I then turned on the oven again to make sure the hot surface ignitor was not glowing. I went back underneath, and disconnected the hot surface ignitor. I followed the wires from it to where it was connected. I then unscrewed the 2 screws that held the flame grill in place. Next, I went back in the oven and removed the flame grill with the hot surface ignitor still attached. I then unscrewed the hot surface ignitor and replace it with the new one. Key points: make sure you mark which wire had which connector, or only cut one at a time. Also, they do not come with new clips, so don't cut you wire too short. I then fed the wires and the base of the flame grill back down the slot, rescrewed the flame grill to the oven, attached the wires, and turned on the oven to make sure it worked. I finally replaced the lower plate inside the oven, the lower plate under the oven, put the drawer back in and I was done.
Thanksgiving was coming and I needed extra oven space. So I ordered an additional rack. Installation ... just put it in the oven. My part came the day after I ordered it.
First remove the broiler drawer. I laid on my side and reached into the oven to do the work, I first removed the one screw holding the splash plate (in the rear) and lifted the plate out. Then, removed the two screws mounting the ignighter to the burner base. Cut the wires on the old ignighter about half way between the connectors on the safety valve and the ignighter. I used a utility knife to strip 3/8" of the insulation on the wires still connected to the valve. Then, mount the new ignighter. Route the ignighter wires behind the gas tube. Use the enclosed ceramic wire nuts to connect the new ignighter wires to the wires still attached to the valve. Push the wire nuts into the hole behind the valve. Reinstall the splash guard and broiler tray.
This was a real easy repair. The key is to remove the door (by lifting straight up) and remove the bottom drawer. Then take all the trays out of the oven, using a screw driver remove the bottom pan that hides the burner and igniter. From underneath the oven (ie drawer space) use a screw driver to disconnect two screws that hold the burner assembly against the back wall of the oven. Then remove the one screw from inside the oven that holds the burner assembly (its close to the door area). Unplug the two igniter wires from underneath the oven and then lift out the entire burner assembly. Take off the two screws that hold the old igniter to the burner and replace with new igniter. Make sure you mark the wires when you remove them because you need the connectors on the end for the new wire. Then give yourself plenty of wire, cut the old wire off the old igniter and using the provided wire ties join them to the new igniter wires and reconnect everything. Sounds complicated but it took me about 20 minutes and its really an easy repair. Good luck.
Remove the burner grills. Lift the stove top and lift the burners and unscrew the existing orifice spuds using pliers. Screw on the new (Natural gas) orifice spuds.
I was a bit hesitant to perform this repair but attempted it due to the other write-ups which were very helpful. The repair went very well and was quite easy. There was a suggestion to remove the gas defuser (the pipe thing that has the igniter attached), I believe loosening this defuser made the whole repair so much easer and quicker. Trying to remove the two screws that hold the igniter without this approach would have been very difficult. I was hesitant to do this but removing the 3 screws that hold the defuser in place was not a problem at all.
ordered parts, 2 double burners, 3 days later they arrived.opened box. lift stove top, lift out old burner,placed next to new burner to see if they were the same. THEY WERE. place in new burner, checked to see if burner assembly fit correctly. IT DID. units purchased were exact replacements. supplied spacer nuts not needed. easy fix looks new again, thanks.
