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everything worked on the stove except for the oven
Since I'm not very mechanical I had my service manager from work come to my house and fiqure out the problem. By using an electrical meter he found that there was no continuity in the igniter. So being the mechanical guy I am I watched him take out 2 screws that secured the the piece of metal that covers the bottom part of the stove. He pulled that part out and from there it was 2 screws to release it from the back of the stove and 2 more to disconnect the igniter from the burner tube. We ordered the part and it arrived in 3 days. I opened the box and to my dismay it was broke. I called to tell them that it was broke and they ordered me a new one right then. I had that part the next day very grateful for that. I was able then to put it back together myself and it worked. Wife is extremely happy with me.
1) Verified it was the broiler igniter that was damaged. 2) Removed the oven door, the lower pot storage drawer and the top range panel. 3) Turned off the gas supply in the top range area. Pulled the electrical plug-in out of the lower electrical panel (behind the lower drawer). 4) Used the nut driver to remove the two (2) 1/4" screws that held the igniter to the back wall of the oven. I later read in the Use & Care Guide that this is easier to do if the broiler burner cover is removed first. 5) I pulled the damaged igniter away from the back wall, expecting to expose wire connectors or splicing but was only able to get about 6" of the two (2) insulated wires before I could not pull them any further. 6) Therefore, I cut the wires and, without a proper wire stripper, cut about 3/8" of insulation away in order to make a splice between the wiring from the new igniter and the wiring coming out of the back of the oven. Big mistake ..... do not recommend this without using a proper wire stripper! I must have cut into the existing exposed oven wiring on one of the wires such that when I used the twist-on to make the splice, most of the wires (those wound together to form one wire) were damaged and broke away. Unfortuantely I did not find this out until everything was put back together and we (my wife and I) did the test. No results! 7) I took everything apart again and when I tried to pull the wiring back out from in behind the oven wall, one wire came out with the twist-on in tact and the other came out "with no wire attachment". 8) I now had to figure out how to get into the back of the oven to retrieve the "lost connecting wire". It is quite simple when you know what you are doing but no instructions (that I had) advised that the upper back light gauge metal panels could be easily removed to expose the wiring. This was eventually determined and the connections were both made again in a more positive manner. 9) We (my wife and I) put it all back together and this time it was fine ..... just had to be patient while the gas purged the air out of the broiler burner line. 10) Lessons learned: GE made it easy "once you knew how it could be done". I suspect GE feels that service type people should be doing these things but with a 120VAC (vs higher voltage electric type ovens) system why not provide the info for the "do-it-yourselfers" as well?
I took all of the oven racks out , then the bottom cover, over the element. I immediately saw the igniter coil was broken. I took the element out and disconnected the two wires. (I saw that the igniter coil was broken and knew that must be my problem. I got my manual out and found the part number and got on line and started shopping. I found part select, the price was fair and ordered it the same day. It was shipped out to me the same day I ordered it. Received it the next day and had the oven working again. Easy to order, great customer service, fast shipping department. Great job to all of you folks at Part Select. I would recommend PS to anyone that wants to save money and do it yourself. Go for it. tk middlebury IN.
You need to remove the knobs and remove the panel where the knobs are connected.
You also need to remove the display panel front to gain access to the where the electrode wires attach.
The other screws are readily visible. It's about 30 screws that need to be pulled.
The adapter put on the electrode can be pulled off with needle nose pliers and a small screwdriver, if the adapter does not fit through the opening on your stove. Just put the adapter back on after you snake the wires through.
Rubber around the oven door cracked and fell down.
Ordered the part and put it on. My husband hasn't relized that i took care of it yet. One day he might remember to ask if we ever got the part. Very quick delivery.
Took it out of the box, lifted the stove lid and replaced the part, no tools required. Very satisfied with the shipping and the part, great service. Thanks!
Removed the drawer at the bottom of the stove, then removed plate in rear covering the wires. unplugged the 2 wires coming from Igniter, then removed 2 1/4" srews holding the ignitor in place, took the old Ignitor and cut the 2 wires and spliced them to the new Ignitor reinstalled the new Ignitor in reverse order of removal. Saved over $110.00.
• Start by unplugging the unit from the wall. • Then slide the unit out carefully without damaging the gas line. • Next remove the lower drawer just under the stove. Pull all of the way out then lift slightly and continue pulling gently. The drawer should slide out with no need for tools. • Tilt the range backwards towards the wall allowing enough room to access the back of the range where the gas control is. • Remove the sheet metal under the stove. There should only be four hex head sheet metal screw holding it in place. • Look at the gas control, and follow the white wires going up this should show you where the lower igniter for the oven is. • Remove the igniter 1-2 screws • Check to make sure you have the correct igniter. The upper and lower are the same. ****The label where my serial # is says that the unit only uses 5 amp igniters however the igniter I pulled out said 2-3 amp… fortunately Parts Select sent me the correct igniter without me knowing the difference when I ordered**** • Replace the old igniter with the new and wire it in per the instructions. **** I had to use butt connectors and part of the old wire because the replacement did not come with the correct connectors to attach to the gas control. It should be ok since it is only 5 amps and under**** • Reassemble the range and replace the drawer. • Be careful when putting the range back in its place, not to tear the linoleum. I wet down the floor with glass cleaner to make it slick.
Good luck, I may have had it done in less than half an hour but I have a two and a half year old who must help daddy do it all. Takes longer but makes it more fun… Brad.
Oven would not work. Burners worked fine. Igniter would not glow.
It was easy. I removed the guts. Removed the heat deflector (one nut). Then removed the igniter and the cover over the wires in order to unplug the wires so I could work with attaching the new part on top of the counter. Replaced everything and it worked great. When the old igniter did not work, the gas valve would not let the gas into the oven, Once replaced, you can here the gas flow in and ignite. Repair man wanted $65 to show up and $175 for part and labor. I paid $77 for the part and did it myself. I do not consider myself handy.
The bolts were below the base of the oven, and very difficult to remove and replace. The directions were not applicable to our unit. The good news was the igniter was correct, even though we had to adapt the bracket.
