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oven drawer would not open or shut completely
first I emptied the contents of the drawer,then pulled drawer open to it's fullest, then lifted drawer so as to tilt slightly, then removed drawer by continuing to pull straight out. then I removed the glide from its protective packaging and inserted it in the same spot as the broken glide was at one time
originaldrawer guide was cruched out of useable shape
first thing was to remove the crushed guide with pliers and a twist it was out. to install the new one islipped one side into the slot and took pliers and applied pressure on the lower glide into the slot; it was done presto. works like new. thanks, Fred . it was so reasonable i got a spare.
I removed the four screws holding the element in place and pulled the element out and disconnected the two wire. Installation was pretty much the reverse of the removal except, when I went to put the two screws holding the element to the top of the oven I discovered the holes were rusted out. I looked for inserts to put in the holes but every time I tried different inserts the holes got bigger. I finally realized the oven is just sheet metal so I moved the bracket about an inch drilled new holes and used self-tapping screws.
I looked up the model number of the Tappan oven on the net, found the part on the PartSelect site, ordered it and it arrived within a few days. The disassembly should have required nothing more than a Phillips head screw driver, unfortunately one of the screws was completely frozen and I managed to strip the Phillips head socket.
The screw was in a very awkward position so I first tried using grip pliers on the edge of the screw - this failed, I then tried grinding a flat spot on either side of the screw circumference and using the flats for gripping - it worked but the screw wouldn't move. Finally, I took a hacksaw blade and cut a slot in the head of the screw. I widened the slot using miniature files and finally made the slot wide enough for a large slot blade screwdriver - this worked. After removing that one screw and maneuvering the broken hinge out of the access hole on the stove front (the break in the hinge was such that this took awhile) the rest of the repair went very quickly.
The oven door was such that I could not see all of the hinge and when the part arrived from PartSelect I thought it was the wrong part. I called your parts return number to ask some questions. The lady who took my call was extremely helpful and we first discussed the part ID, then she showed me how to find a picture of the actual part on your site. After looking at the picture and the diagram I suddenly realized the part was correct - it was just that I thought it was supposed to be installed in a different manner. I'm sorry I didn't remember to get her name because she certainly should be commended for he patience and her assistance. Thanks Again.
Turn off power, remove heat coil assembly and drip pan. Unscrew the terminal assembly from the range top. Cut back 3 inches on each terminal wire and strip insulation 3/8 inch. Terminal assembly should be with the short side of the black block (from the side securement hubs) facing toward the coil stems. Slide the shrink wrap onto each wire and Twist each old with each new wire using the wire nuts and slide the shrink wrap Over each. Using a hair dryer, heat gun, or open flame carefully shrink the wrap. Secure the terminal back in place on the range.
Didn't get repaired because I could not get the right parts to fix it. You would send me a part for the oven. The oven and burner parts are not the same