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Coils freezing up and refrigerator would get warm
Wasn't sure if it was the derost timer or the heating element. Since the timer was much cheaper, I bought it and crossed my fingers. My story is like the others. Unplug the refrigerator, snip the old wires, strip back the wire insulation, use the supplied connectors to attach the new defrost timer to the existing wiring. Success! My coils no longer freeze up. Only difficulty is I am a large guy, and fitting my upper body into the freezer was challenging.
Freezer was getting a build up of frost on the condenser and wasn't cooling.
First I remove the back panel which had 4 screws. Then I removed the ice maker. The icemaker is held in place by the 2 screws that requires backing the screws out just a litter, than lift up and remove the electrical connector. Used a volt ohm meter to check the resisitant in the heater element and the defrost timing switch. Both tested good and that left only the thermostat. Removed and replaced the thermastat swich. I cut the ends of the old switch and crimp the ends of wire with the crimps that came with the swict i purchased from parts select. My refrigerator is working properly and making ice like normal.
tested defrost timer and heater. And then tested defrost timer with ohm test($6 at hard ware store) Closed and would not open replace and tested freezer take 30mins to get switch cold and retest.
A screw driver was used to remove two screws that held the old fan in place the new fan ws installed exactly where the old one came out and presto the job was complete. No major deal.
I didn’t do the repair because the new motor had a female pigtail connector while the original motor has male connection. It came with wire clamps but didn’t want to cut wires to make repair. The pictures online show a male connection. Put the old motor back in and now it works fine.
Discovered the coil was covered with 1/2 inch of ice because defrost cycle had not been working. Replacing the defrost timer and melting ice with hair dryer fixed problem. Hooray!
Seal was old and cracking allowing condesate to rust the door
I should have read everyone else's experiences before attempting. I did view a youtube video and thought I had it set. However, if I had it to do over, the door would have been removed. The door shelf (inner door) taken off and cleaned before attempting to put the gasket on. I did it while the door was still attached and probably lost a good 45mns along with my fingers cramping, knee's flat spotting, and lower back catching fire. TAKE THE DOOR OFF if at all possible, you wont regret it.
Was really basic, simply slide off the old caps, slide on the new ones, put the shelf back where it goes, push down lightly so as to not snap the new caps, and viola, complete. No more than 2 minutes worth of work. Great part at a great price, shipping was more than the part itself so I bought 2 of each. Only problem I ran into was that I ordered the top shelf caps instead of the bottom the first time, so I had to reorder.
Door shelf retainer bar end caps broke off at insertion point.
Removed plastic male parts. Inserted new end caps onto old retainer bar. Inserted all into door. A snap, but I didn't need to order the retainer bar after all - the old one was the perfect fit and the one I ordered was way too long. I returned the new retainer bar, and the shipping was more expensive than the part.
There was no work to do. I just slipped the new drawer in. I'm writing because PartSelect was amazing. A rep on the phone helped me identify the part I needed--which was a substitute b/c the actual part isn't made anymore. The next day, the part arrived. I was blown away and want to acknowledge the great service.
The refrigerator in my new apartment was missing the brackets that hold the bars so that things don't fall off of the door shelves. It was missing several off of the refrigerator door and one off of the freezer door.
I just had to make certain I had the correct end-cap for the correct side. I placed the two little curved pieces into the slots and applied some downward pressure (gently) onto the end-cap till I heard it "snap" into place. You could then see that it was held in place securely. I did first one side, then fed the bar into it, then placed the other side onto the the bar; inserted the end-cap and secured it in place.
HINT: I myself mistakingly ordered the same exact end-cap for both the freezer and the fridge doors. I was unaware (I failed to check), that the end-caps for the freezer are not the same end-caps as the ones for the fridge door. My refrigerator uses three different end-cap sizes; one size for the actual fridge door and two additional different sizes for the freezer door. Not wanting to exchange it, I used the one I ordered anyway. It still works, but makes the bar protrude into the freezer more than it would have, had I ordered the correct size.
SPECIAL NOTE: This company got the correctly ordered products to me within a couple of days. I would definitely order from them again without hesitation. I am very happy with the product and service. Smooth.
My fridge side had warmed up to 70 degrees but the freezer side was still cold. The coils inside had iced up. After thawing with a hair dryer, it froze back after another week. I removed the old defrost thermostat and wired the heater strip directly and turned on the defrost timer. It began melting the ice so that ruled out the heater strip being bad. I couldn't get a reading with my ohm meter on the defrost thermostat so I took a chance and bought the part. Installation was a breeze and it fixed the problem.
Top freezer took off the panel in freezer and melted the ice around coils and found the defrost thermostat and replaced with the new one. Just followed the instructions from your video on line. Freezer works just fine now. Refrigerator is 38 years old.
