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Freezer frosted up, refrigerator compartment heated up
I removed the housing at the top of the refrigerator compartment that contained the reefer light and temperature adjustment knob. This required a small nut-driver. Inside, I found the old defrost control, unplugged it, unscrewed it with a Phillips screwdriver, and replaced it with the replacement part. Then I replaced the housing to its original position.
Removed the housing with the light, 4 hexhead screws. This exposed the defrost timer, removed 2 hexhead screws, electrical connector and reassembled the unit.
First I removed the plastic grill (pulled out, no screws) from bottom of refrigerator, then I removed electrical plug & two screws from old timer (timer located on the front inside left lower side of refrigerator). Installed in reverse order.
Door shelf retainer bar end caps broke off at insertion point.
Removed plastic male parts. Inserted new end caps onto old retainer bar. Inserted all into door. A snap, but I didn't need to order the retainer bar after all - the old one was the perfect fit and the one I ordered was way too long. I returned the new retainer bar, and the shipping was more expensive than the part.
The refrigerator in my new apartment was missing the brackets that hold the bars so that things don't fall off of the door shelves. It was missing several off of the refrigerator door and one off of the freezer door.
I just had to make certain I had the correct end-cap for the correct side. I placed the two little curved pieces into the slots and applied some downward pressure (gently) onto the end-cap till I heard it "snap" into place. You could then see that it was held in place securely. I did first one side, then fed the bar into it, then placed the other side onto the the bar; inserted the end-cap and secured it in place.
HINT: I myself mistakingly ordered the same exact end-cap for both the freezer and the fridge doors. I was unaware (I failed to check), that the end-caps for the freezer are not the same end-caps as the ones for the fridge door. My refrigerator uses three different end-cap sizes; one size for the actual fridge door and two additional different sizes for the freezer door. Not wanting to exchange it, I used the one I ordered anyway. It still works, but makes the bar protrude into the freezer more than it would have, had I ordered the correct size.
SPECIAL NOTE: This company got the correctly ordered products to me within a couple of days. I would definitely order from them again without hesitation. I am very happy with the product and service. Smooth.
I removed the plastic shroud on the ceiling of the refigerator, unscrewed and unplugged the old defrost timer, and replaced it with the new one. I reinstalled the shroud with the new timer installed.
Removed the back panel of the freezer. Unplugged the defrost cycle thermostat and replace with a new one. Removed the bottom cover in front of the refrer. removed the defrost timer, plugged new timer in. manually tripped the defrost timer. checked the defrost heater for operation. Checked OK, replaced covers, works like a champ
The defrost timer is faily easy to replace, first unplug the unit, then remove the toe gaurd, then lay on the floor with your light and phillips screwdriver, locate the 2 screws at the lower left side, remove them and the timer and it's shield will drop down. unplug the old timer, plug the new one in and re-install everything. The temp sensor is located in the back of the freezer compartment. Again make sure the unit is unplugged, remove freezer shelves and lower basket, then with a 1/4" nut driver, remove the screws holding the rear panel on, remove the panel and locate the sensor on the upper evaporator tube, unclip it and disconnect the 2 wires, reverse procedure and plug it back in. Not to get on a soap box, but this is the 3rd time i have had the same problem with this unit, plus several other problems.
refrigerator coil frozen up and kept the refrigerator from cooling
Remove front cover below door, remove 2 screws attaching the defrost timer to the refrigerator frame. Unplug wiring harness plug from timer an install new one. Remove metal cover in back of the freezer compartment. unpug the two wires going to the thermostat, remove the thermostat { thermostat is held onto the cooling coil with a clip} , remove thermostat and replace with new one
Freezer was freezing but refridgerator was warm. Checked fan and it was not turning.
Unplug fridge. Removed 2 nuts to get the vent plate off and two more nuts to get the motor mount off. Removed fan blade and then the fan motor. I put the new motor in and put everything back as it was. It was very easy. I had items in the freezer, so I didn't turn the fridge off other than to replace the part. It took about 6 hours for the fridge to reach optional temps because I didn't get to defrost and the fridge had to work it out on it's own. If you don't need the freezer then you should turn the refridgerator off for at least an hour and open the doors so the coils can defrost and any ice blockage between the freezer and fridge portion can melt away as well.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
The bulb has a plastic clear cover. That cover can just be carefully removed using a screwdriver. It's held in by a metal bracket. After you remove the cover. You'll just need to replace the bulb and then re-install the cover and bracket.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.