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Freezer frozen, refrigerator warm
removed the screws/nuts; pulled the back panel off, removed the old thermostat (wires just popped apart) replaced the new thermostat (wires just popped back on) replaced the back panel and the nuts and TaDa!!
Main control board display not working properly. Unplugged freezer removed old board using flat scraper and simply plugged in new board. Plugged in freezer and go to go. Awesome company!
A little research told me the hum plus no cooling was either the compressor or the relay. I ordered the new relay and put it in but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up having to buy a new fridge, but it was worth the $30 gamble to see if I could fix it on the cheap and it saved me the money a service call would've cost. Pretty easy installation, just in a tight space on my model.
freezer section remove ice trays ,shelves,unplug ice tray.use 1/4 nut driver remove back panel,use hair dryer thaw ice from evap coil ,unplug tstat remove install new one.plug in ice maker,put back panel back on ,ice maker and shelves plug refridgerator back in
Removed old gasket, then installed new gasket. Make sure to allow new gasket to set out for a few days prior to installing to get all wrinkles out, use a heat gun after installing to make gasket shape to freezer door.
Fridge would not cool at all, because the compressor was not running. Fan running, lights working, just no cool.
Remove the cardboard access cover at the bottom back of the fridge. On the left side, locate the run capacitor. Remove it by prying it loose from its socket, after first removing the wire hold down clamp. One wonders why the clamp is there, which makes it difficult to get the run capacitor out. Be careful not to disrupt in any way the copper refrigerant tubes. If you mess them up, you will have wasted your time and effort trying to repair the machine. I was lucky, since a failed run capacitor is the problem only about 12% of the time, based on what I’ve read. Hallelujah! It was the problem with my fridge.
power surge, burnt out Freezer Main Control Board PS3502429
Used putty knife to pop out old control board. Which is located on the front of the freezer door. The hard part was determining that this was the problem in the first place. I first replaced the compressor controller and the Run Capacitor. compressor still would not start. when I installed the new control board, it ran perfect.
Ordered the Capacitor and the Thermostat Control. Parts were received in a matter of a few days, easy to install, but did not fix the problem. Had to call a repairman to fix the problem (compressor relay - this part not available to order for this model number with Parts Select). Will continue to use Parts Select in the future for other parts, but not happy that the actual part I needed was not available - had to use other methods.
It's easy to know how to use a key. I didn't have a difficult part, I didn't have the model # because I had lost my key and the model # is inside. I was able to find the energy saving paper that came with it but it had four model #'s. I called a couple places and no could me. I pulled up Part Select on line and just thought I would give them a try. I got a very nice person (Jeremy) He went thru every model that I had and three out of the four matched so he sent me a key and if it didn't work I could get my money back. I give him a A+ four taking that extra step, unlike the other places. Very satisfied!
The freezer was too warm. The fan was running: the diagnosis tool did not work!
I used the tool at Partselect that in theory allows diagnostic of the problem to be repaired. The result was that more tan 90% of the time with the introduced symptoms it had to be the thermostat. I order the part, got it quickly and installed. It did not fix the problem. So, be careful with the diagnostic tool, because it is just based on what most people buy when they have a particular problem. Videos for installation are great. If diagnosis was better, this would be fantastic. In my case there might be a different problem.