Cycled the defrost timer but compressor still would not kick in. Cycled the cold control, and after a while it started only to hang up again after a few hours. Replaced the cold control, now running normal.
I had a broken fan blade due to ice build up from a leaking ice maker.
1. I took out one screw on the ice maker and loosened the other two screws and unplugged and removed the ice maker. 2. Next I took out 2 screws from the bottom of the auger drive box and unplugged the wiring harness and removed the box. The wiring harness was a little tricky. The lock on the plug pushes in to unlock even though it looks like it pulls out,. 3.next you must remove 2 screws from the left side bracket that holds the auger box and remove the bracket. 4.Now take out 8 screws that hold the back panel in place and remove the back panel. 5. now your looking at the evaporator fan blade and motor. The simple way to replace the fan blade is to unplug the motor and remove it from the freezer. It just sits in with nothing holding it. The fan requires a little pressure but should pull right off. Install new fan blade and put everything back in the same order it was removed.
The timer in this older unit is clearly exposed at the back of the freezer underneath the freezer compartment. It is attached with two Phillips head screws. After the screws are removed, the timer can be unplugged and the new one plugged in. The new timer has an extra flange to allow it to be used on more than one model of freezer. In order to mount the timer in this unit, you have to remove the extra flange by carefully cutting it away from the timer body, in similar fashion to what's depicted in the online video. This will allow you to mount the new timer to the mounting plate using the two screws from the old timer.
Getting frost build up on the inside at the top of the door .
removed door and took all the screws out of the inside door rack. removed old door seal . replaced door seal and made sure that the seal fit around and door rack fit into the groove then replaced all screws and tightened choosing random sections to tighten .replaced the door plugged back in wires that I removed and replaced door hinge screws . Shut door and checked sealing 2 hours later .Complete seal .
First unplug freezer, then disconnected wires from timer. Removed 2 screws from bracket holding time to freezer. Attached New part with screws. .The mounting bracket is now part of New time. Reattach wires. I let coils defrost and then plugged it.
Freezer was frosting too much for air getting in the side of freezer gasket seal.
Loosen screws, removed old gasket seal, replace with new gasket (nice to use 2 sets of hands) and re screwed. Used hairdryer to heat up and fluff out a spot that wasnt seal all the way. Pretty simplementation to do.
The old defrost timer started making a screeching noise (probably bearings going out). The replacement part was a cinch to install. When I initially spoke to a PartsSelect person, they said the part number I gave them was not consistent with my old '94 Tappan Freezer. They were able to still find the proper replacement part number. The video that was on-line helpful also.
power surge, burnt out Freezer Main Control Board PS3502429
Used putty knife to pop out old control board. Which is located on the front of the freezer door. The hard part was determining that this was the problem in the first place. I first replaced the compressor controller and the Run Capacitor. compressor still would not start. when I installed the new control board, it ran perfect.
Removed old gasket, then installed new gasket. Make sure to allow new gasket to set out for a few days prior to installing to get all wrinkles out, use a heat gun after installing to make gasket shape to freezer door.
Bought the defrost timer based on PartSelect recommendations, installed it and no change. Apparently the old one was fine but since the refrigerator was in a flood and this part got submerged in water I kept it rather than returning it. I looked at everything closely and realized all the mechanical functions were working properly. Rarely does a condenser coil fail so I decided to look into recharging the coolant. Bought a 1/4 inch bullet valve, a 12oz. can of R-134a and a cheap resealable can adapter with hose, gauge and R22 to R-134a adapters. After a $30. investment Bingo, after one squirt the refrigerator began to cool and after 4oz. it now works better than new. I understand that PartSelect is in the business of selling only their parts but please consider that there can be other simple problems.
Removed old gasket by backing out screws around inner door panel. I did not remove the screws just loosened in order to remove old gasket. Starting from the top of the inner door panel I set the old gasket and squared off. Tightened top screws and worked the gasket in on the sides and tightened several of the screws on the sides then set the bottom of gasket in the door. Inserting the gasket in the bottom was the hardest part of the job. The overall job took less time than expected.
When I was ready to instal fan motor, I noticed that there was no thread where I was supposed to screw in the bolts
When i found out there was no thread in brace where bolts were supposed to screw in, I panicked. I thought I would have to send part back or go to a machine shop to make a thread. I called a friend for help and he told me the bolts would make the thread if I just screwed them in. Sure enough, the bolts made the thread and then I just proceeded to instal motor and put refrigerator back together. It was simple.
