19885 ((1988)) Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed front bottom cover,found belt broken. I ordered part online on 10-23-09,part arrived on 10-24-09,amazing. I lossened the two bolts that hold the drive motor to the frame,slipped the new belt on and applied the supplied silicone grease. I then ran the two bolts in with a 3/8 wrench,put the cover back on. Everything works like new now. Great delivery and easy ordering system online. Immediatly called my neighbor and told him about partselect.com

First, I had to remove the outer face panel of the door. Four screws on the inside of the door hold the large panel onto the front. Removing these screws and the panel revealed the detergent cup assembly. There is no need to disconnect the power as long as the door latch is in the open position for this repair. I removed the two wires, blue and white from the leads, keeping note which was attached to which lead. I used a hex head screw driver to remove the 6 screws that hold the detergent cup in place. After removing the detergent cup and gasket, I cleaned the surfaces with a scouring pad to make sure the new gasket would have a good seal. I installed the new detergent cup with the 6 hex screws and re-attached the leads. I replaced the face panel with the four interior screws after running a couple cycles to be sure the problem was fixed, which it was.

remove 3 screws from either side door edge trim : Note ! panel "notches" are up : remove both original panals plus the cardboard spacer : swap only the old color with the new one and reinstall spacer cardboard and be sure it stays centered : remember panel notches are up : carfully slide the panels over the spacer cardboard while keeping the cardboard centered : becareful panel edges can scratch in the door trim : Note! opposite side door trim can be removed if needed .

No problem at all. Belt slipped on very easily. Followed directions in the package.

I opened the bottom part of the dishwasher, from there you can see all parts of the motor including the pulleys where the broken belt came from. From here, I took the new belt, placed some silicon all around it and installed it by rotating the pulleys clockwise until the belt wraps around it.
Then I tested it by turning the control on the Wash/Rinse mode and it started to drain the water right away.
DONE!

NO PROBLEM!!!

PS.
THANK YOU FOR DELIVERING IT ON TIME.

It was either the timer assembly of the Dispenser cup assembly. After looking at the dispenser critically< it appeared that the cam was quite worn. The replacement was accomplished by removing the bottom part of the door (4 screws) and then removing the dispenser cup (8 hex-head screws). If you keep the starter lever to "off" there is not power to the timer and you do not need to disconnect power

Removed four screws that hold front panel. Disconnected two wires, removed six screws, cleaned of old gasket material. Installed new gasket and soap dispenser with six screws. replaced two wires. replace front panel.

My daughter and son removed the old gasket and installed the new one. It went well.

found the parts ordered them an poof dishwasher us as good as new

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

I ordered two springs (PartSelect Number PS2202520), one for each side of my 30 year old Maytag WU704. This is the shorter "assist spring" that sits right behind the slightly longer green-ish spring, of which there are also one on each side. Now, with 2 springs on each side, the door swings like a new unit. I did NOT have to pull the dishwasher out of the cabinet at all. All I had to do was remove the base plate and there are gaps under the dishwasher frame that you can fish the spring with plastic grommet through, to insert the grommet into the appropriate hole on the door lever arm. Then with a pair of long needle-nose pliers I was able to reach from under the outside of the unit to grab the hanging spring hook and pull it down to insert it into the appropriate hole in the frame. I had a series, or line, of holes to choose from for this. I found that the hole closest to where the green-ish spring attaches made the door tighter and hold faster, the hole furthest made the door feel looser. You can do with one spring but I figure two would probably assist each other in lifting and last longer. Easy fix you can do! It would be an even easier fix if you need to replace the two other green-ish springs (PartSelect Number PS2097003), because they are right at the front of the unit. Open the bottom of the unit and check to see which is broken, so you are sure to order the correct spring(s) because they are different!

Remove lower cover, 4 Phillips screws. Remove bracket with float switch, two hex head screws in the rear. After removal pull switch wires, two in plastic housings. Remove float switch, one small Phillips head screw. Remove float switch lever, one Phillips head screw. Clean the bracket and lever. Replace the lever and lube with silicone. Replace the float switch, (new one) and replace wires. Reinstall install bracket with original hex head screws. Replace lower cover. Done.

replaced belt....great service!!

bimetallic latch to release soap cover was broken.
Had to order entire soap cup assembly to get the bimetallic strip. Removed strip from new assembly and replaced broken strip. Put remainder of cup in box and saved for spare parts.

This was a pain to change due to very limited access. Also belt had very little stretch. Had to really put some thought in it before attempting.