11087402880 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Initially we thought the problem was the igniter, so we ordered an igniter kit. Installed it but was unsuccessful. We then went on the websight and read further, about 50% of dryers with no heat but working had a problem with the thermal fuse.So we ordered the thermal fuse installed it, which was very easy, and success. Once the problem was diagnosed properly it was fast and easy. Recommend looking at the statistics for specific problem.

After replacing all the other fuses and sensors I finally replaced the Radiant Flame Sensor and it is working perfectly.

After replacing the other parts and the heat still not coming on I read somewhere that the Radiant Flame Sensor is a normal closed circuit and when I checked with a meter it was open. I would have saved a lot of time and money if I had read that earlier.

With the correct parts and watching the video, it was so easy to repair. We ordered the wrong part (for the Electric Dryer when it should have been for the Residential Dryer) but the return was easy and we got the new parts super fast. Next time I would probably look at the offending part first before ordering just to make certain. But we used a socket set and Philips screwdriver and actually had our teens do all the work for experience. Fixed the loud noise one and for all.

once the back is off remove belt from tentioner and remove v clip. smooth shaft with wd-40 and scotch brite , then install new idler replace v clip
and your done !!!

Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!

NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.

Rather than remove the front panels, door, control panel and drum, I noticed 1/4" metal screws on the back panel. There were approximately 6 holding the back panel in place. I did have to remove the top panel as well before removing the back. Once removed I had complete access to the broken idler pulley assembly. I immediately saw the broken pulley. I installed the new one with very little effort. Reset the belt according to instructions from the video. Reassembled, plugged in, hit start and enjoyed the sweet sounds of success. All told it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish.

I moved the dryer to a location where I could get to both the front and back sides. I opened the back by first removing the top cover and then the back. It requires either a Phillips head screwdriver or a quarter inch socket. In addition, it requires removing the four power wires which connect to the computer. If you are unfamiliar with the wiring layout, take a photo with your cell phone which you can then refer to when re-assembling. Once the back was removed, I saw that the belt was still intact, but the pulley which provides tension to the belt was frozen. Take a photo of the belt route between the motor and the pulley. Try to get the spring position in the photo. Remove the belt from the pulley by reducing the tension and then sliding the belt out (this assumes the belt is not broken). The pulley arm is held in place by a single bolt which can be removed by a socket set. Remove the arm with the pulley attached. Examine the pulley to figure out why it is frozen. In my case, the pulley had been frozen for some time and the belt had actually chewed through the pulley and was sliding (polishing) on the pulley axle? I used a pair of pliers to loosen the destroyed pulley by rotating it back and forth over the axle while gripping the arm the axle is attached to. As it loosened up I worked it off the axle. I used a cloth to clean the axle of grime from the belt, pulley, and dryer lint. The new pulley comes with a washer and triangular plastic "fastener". First you put on the washer, then the pulley and then you secure it on the axle by sliding the triangular fastener over the axle so it sits in a small grove near the end of the axle. Then put the pulley arm back by replacing the bolt. Make sure you do not overtighten the arm since it is intended to rotate about the bolt. If the dryer belt breaks, the spring will pull the arm down and throw a cutoff switch. Its operation should be obvious. Once the arm is back in place, refer to your photo and replace the spring (this can be tricky and frustrating, particularly if you don't use something like needle nose pliers). Once the spring is in place, depress it and re-install the dryer belt. Refer to the photo you took earlier if you've forgotten how the belt was routed. Then re-install the dryer's back panel, re-attach the electric wires (again refer to the photo you took earlier), and re-attach the top cover. You might want to test your handiwork at this point before you reconnect the dryer vent

PartSelect sent me three different door catches with instructions for choosing the correct one. I did choose and simply inserted it into the slot and voile! All finished and it works great now! PartSelect had the part delivered the day after my order was placed. I would suggest doing business with them to anyone asking who they might contact for a part. I especially appreciated the ease of identifying and ordering from them. I was able to do all of this on-line via their website.

My dryer starter squeaking in December 09 and the repairman told me that it would cost between $200-$500. I did not let him fix it as this machine is only 3 years old. When the part finally broke in April 10, I was ready to junk this and just buy a used dryer. My husband went on line and quickly figured out the part he would need to do the repairs. It cost under $20.00. Now my dryer is fixed and running and there are no squeaks. Thank you

Did an Ohm test on the old Thermal Fuse found it to be bad. Replaced it with a new and the dryer is back to working great. Your suggestions saved approximatley $150.

Thanks for the help.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

I used a screwdriver to remove the old part and pushed the new part in with my fingers, it was very easy. If I could do it, anyone can. I was a lot cheaper then having a repair man come to house. I am very glad I found your site online, I will definitely be using your company again.

When the problem first came up, I took the dryer apart without first looking up any instructions. This wasn't difficult, but didn't realize when removing the fan from the motor, there is a square lug as part of the fan hidden by the rear clamp securing the motor. I was able to remove the fan by holding the motor shaft with a crescent wrench and removing the fan by hand, but was difficult and gloves were necessary in case the fan loosened quickly and my hand came in contact with the sheet metal (very sharp).

I took the motor out and attempted to clean it as it was loaded with dust as was the dryer internals. I tried to lube the motor bearings and appeared to free up, but the sight of metal shavings on the rear bearing seal had me concerned. This ultimely did not work and was trying to buy some time until the new motor arrived.

This is when I looked up the motor part number and found that Parts Select had the part number in stock. I ordered the motor on a Saturday afternoon and got a quick response acknowledging my order. The motor shipped that following Monday from Fresno and arrived on my Southern California doorstep Tuesday. These guys have their act together and are helpful in making the repairs. In my case I did not have to make any adjustments to the wiring or the pulley for my model and replaced the motor the following weekend in about 45 minutes. Since I had the unit apart several times before replacing the motor, the installation went quickly.

The dryer is again working fine for a unit 12 years old and my wife is once again happy that we didn't have to purchase a new dryer.

Used my Whirlpool Dryer User Instructions Manual and followed instructions and used the Cabinet Parts page to see the diagrams.

removed the catch and the pin and replaced it. We were sent a couple different sizes so we tested the one that looked like the closest match. I think the pin was made with different thicknesses of metal. Worked great and saved us from having to get a new dryer!