11086980100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Found an instructional, easy to follow video by PartSelect online. It was helpful to know what tools I needed before beginning the job. I first purchased only the belt. After taking the dryer apart, I saw the idler had also broke. It was very helpful that the parts arrived quickly. The video was the the greatest tool for doing this repair myself!!!!

i took the back apart to find the problem, then i went online to findout how tomremove the blower wheel, just googled it. Easy!Took itnall apart, just had a bit of trouble getting the wheel off, was on there very very tight. Ordered it through you, easy, and very very quick, received it in a day. I got an email explaining the reassembly process. Easy. Just follow it to a t and you will be fine. As a woman, this was an easy fix.

Tools and materials:

#2 Philips head screw driver
Standard flat-tip screw driver
1/4" nut driver or ratchet
1/4" drive sockets: 1/4, 5/16
Something 3-4 inches thick to wedge under drum for support (i.e. scrap 4x4, soap bottle, books)

Replacement Procedures:

1. Unplug dryer from wall outlet
2. Pull out lint screen
3. Remove 2 Philips screws attaching lint trap to dryer top
4. Lift hinged dryer top panel near front and lean it back on wall. You may need to pry between side panels and top with flat-tip screw driver to get it started.
5. Disconnect plug from dryer door switch near front
6. Remove two 1/4" and two 5/16" hex screws inside front panel near top.
7. Open dryer door and lift front panel straight up to disengage tabs from slots near bottom of front panel.
8. While supporting drum with one hand, lift front panel and set aside with other hand.
9. Slip replacement belt around drum with ribs facing drum and position it where old belt left its mark.
10. Wedge something under drum to support it while installing the belt.
11. Re-position tensioner in two slots in bottom panel just in front of motor. On my model the bend in the spring will be on the right side with the idler pulley to the left, when viewed from the front.
12. Ensuring the belt isn't twisted, thread a small loop of it through the opening in the tensioner just below the pulley.
13. With the left hand, push against the tensioner spring while working the loop over the drive pulley.
14. While supporting drum with one hand, remove whatever you put under the drum to support it.
15. Replace front panel by aligning the slots with the tabs near the bottom and lowering it into place.
16. Carefully slip the drum opening over the flange on the front panel and replace hex screws.
17. Slowly roll the drum in one direction or the other until the belt aligns and centers itself.
18. Re-connect the plug for the dryer door switch.
19. Lower the dryer top and press until it snaps back into place.
20. Replace philips screws to secure lint trap and replace lint screen.
21. Plug dryer back into wall outlet, close door, set to dry, and press start.

Took screwdriver popped out old latch in cabnet. Took pliers popped out latch out of door. Snaped new latch parts back in.

unpluged the unit removed exaust, pulled away from wall about 18 inches. Then leaned unit face down, remove back shield/cover also remove he two wires to elements. At the top of housing where element is in there is a screw that needs to be removed, then lift housing element is in side. Slide foward and lift to remove,to replace go in reverse.

removed the power, then the back cover. to remove the heating element en closer there is a bolt above the en closer that is a pain to get to and isnt visible but its there. once removed I got my multi meter and tested the resistance on both leads from the element itself they read open or max resistance which is an open or bad coil. I installed the new element and reassembled. after the reassembly I noticed an enormous amount of lint in the exhaust pipe. I removed the pipe then used my had to push it out. once that was done I reassembled and applied power everything worked like a brand new machine would. hope this helps make sure to check the exhaust vent pipe for lint buildup to ensure you dont blow another element.

got my kit from partselect and in no time i was drying cloths.

Removed the back panel and checked each of four thermal connections. The thermostat at the top of the heating element tested bad. I replaced both the top and bottom thermostats. Tested OK. Checked the vent pipe all the way to outside and tested clear. Inside of dryer was clear. Discovered that a visitor did not remember to clean the lint screen before/after each load. We set the dryer now to no more than 30 minutes at a time and ONLY on Medium Heat and it works fine. There is no need ever to use High Heat Setting. I was glad to find Whirlpool-authorized parts. I will never use generics again.

Removed rear panel screws carefully removed panel with out disconnecting wire harness located thermal fuse removed 2 screws removed the 2 wires with needle nose pliers put new thermal fuse in connected the 2 wires carefully put panel back on and tightened screws turned on power and start got heat problem fixed

I diagnosed the problem using the web page. It said that 60% of the people with my problem bought the Thermal Fuse. I unplugged the dryer AND cut the power at the fuse box. I used a screwdriver to remove the vent hose, a nutdriver to remove the back of the machine. The thermal fuse was right there. Removed the old one with a screwdriver, unplugged the wires from the old one and snapped on new one, and screwed it back in. Re-installed the back of the dryer and the vent hose and Whoila! It works like a champ.

I watched the video and did the repair myself. My husband, who works in maintenance, was IMPRESSED! Yay! Thank You!!!! Love you guys! I am forwarding your website to my children!

Repair was very easy simply used a screwdriver to remove the cracked old latch and used my fingers to insert my new latch.

Turn off and unplug dryer, pull dryer away from wall to allow a decent working area. Remaoved use multi meter to assure no current flow, disconnect wires/remove at contact points. Remove panels and screwsnto expose heating element. Continue to remove screws from heating element, the only problem I had was reaching the top screw the is on the inside. I was able to squeeze my hand through an opening with a short/stubby flat head screw driver.

the best tool i had was the instructions from parts select..... THANKS ............

My dryer, a Whirlpool GEQ9800PW1, suddenly stopped producing heat. I did not have a multimeter so I rolled the dice on changing the fuse since that's a common problem. Well, it wasn't my problem. I borrowed a multimeter and learned how to use it from YouTube videos. I tested the thermostat, the heating element, another thermostat. They weren't the problem. I finally tested the thermal cutoff and it was dead. I ordered the part from Part Select, it arrived within 3 days, and is working perfectly. As for the installation process, all of the parts mentioned above are accessed from the front of the dryer, below the dryer door. There are two clips at the TOP of the panel below the dryer door. Use a screwdriver to pop them loose and remove the panel. There are also clips at the bottom of the panel. No need to mess with those. I wasted a lot of time doing that because I didn't realize the relevant clips were at the top of the panel. Once the panel is removed, you need to remove the metal piece that covers the lint trap and blower. It is held in place by three screws and pulls right off. On the right side of the dryer, you will see a hollow, metal tube with the heating element in it. The heating element can be identified easily because it's made up of coils. On the left side of this metal tube containing the heating element, you will see wires that attach to two separate items. The one in the front is the high limit thermostat. Behind that is the thermal cutoff. Only one screw holds the thermal cutoff in place. Remove the screw, detach the two wires attached to it, and simply replace with a new one. The entire metal tube can be removed from the dryer but I personally didn't find it necessary. I was fine with reaching into the dryer to remove/replace the thermal cutoff. The replacement part comes with both the thermal cutoff and a high limit thermostat. I didn't bother replacing the thermostat. This is a fast, easy job when reading the above instructions. My process was trial and error so it took me forever. Hopefully these instructions help others. I considered an aftermarket part but after some research, it's worth the $30 to get a factory part from this site.