11086475420 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

use screwdriver topry plastic out plyers to pull out metal latch put new parts in

Very easy once I figured out how to open it up to see what was the matter.
1 Remove power.
2 Open the lint filter cover and remove the 2 Phillip screws.
3 Pry the front of the top cover up to separate the cover from the plastic clips that secure to the top front panel.
4 Remove the 2 nut screws securing the top of the front panel to each side cover.
5 Pull front panel out slightly to detach wiring from the cover switch.
6 Pull front panel straight up and set aside.
7 Remove drum belt from tensioner and motor pulley under the drum.
8 Remove drum by pulling it toward the front between the 2 sides.
9 Locate the 2 support rollers and their mounting shafts. Change the shafts at this point if they are worn. (Mine were OK)
10 Remove the support bracket from the shaft if present.
11 Remove the plastic triangular retainer from the shaft and slide the old wheel off of the shaft.
12 Clean the shaft from any bearing debris.
13 Replace the rollers and retainers.
14 Insert drum through the front side panels making sure the seal on the rear of the drum is centered around the opening and not folded inside the opening.
15 Place the belt on the drum and thread the belt through the tensioner and around the motor pulley.
16 Position the front cover on the lower clips on each of the sides.
17 Re-attach the 2 wires for the cover switch.
18 Pull the drum up so the opening on the drum and front cover align.
19 Screw together the side panels to the front panel using the 2 hex headed screws.
20 Check for binds by rotating the drum several times by hand.
21 Press the front of the top panel down toward the front panel to engage the plastic clips attaching the top to the front. Watch for the lint filter housing alignment as you push the top panel down.
22 Replace the 2 screws to attach the lint filter to the top cover.
23 Plug in machine and test.

Good luck, It s not as bad as it sounds.

actually i found your site before i even looked at the dryer,thats how i knew to check for the thermal fuse.
I ordered the part and it was on my door in 36
hours,pulled the two wires off the old fuse and installed the new,put the back cover on and it has been working ever since,thanks ( your in my bookmarks)

After looking at the schematic to see what was in line with the motor, I found the fuse as the first item. I pulled the fuse out and used a multimeter to ohm out the fuse. Upon using the meter I found that the fuse was bad. I typed into Google my part number that was on the fuse and the PartSelect Website came up as one of the choices to pick from. When the part arrived approx. two days later I installed the fuse by first unplugging the dryer and then removing the bottom panel and removing the fuse from the exhaust by using a small 1/4 inch wrench and pulling out the old fuse. I installed the wires on the new fuse and re-installed and put the 1/4 inch screw back in. I started the dryer after plugging it back in and it worked like it should have. Thank you for the part and I have recommended your website to other people already.

My 14 year old son did it as I supervised! Pulled the dryer out on a dolly, unpluged the dyer, removed 9 hex head screws to remove the back cover, removed and replaced the thermal fuse, located next to the exhust outlet, set the cover back on, moved the dryer back in with the dolly. I had the thermal fuse over nighted to me for a total price of $35, figured I saved at least $150 on a service call by Whirpool.

I bought a belt from a store in my area- What a mistake...I found this site and read all the stories on how easy it was and how PartSelect.com had the parts in stock and had easy instructions...I put the idler pulley in place, put the belt in place (all from instructions included) and put the dryer back together (which was easy). I actually did it alone. I would recommend this company to anyone in need of their parts and help!

First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure out you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!

1. Remove the lint filter. Then remove 2 screws at the lint filter housing.

2. At the back of the dryer, remove 2 screws that restrain the hinges for the dryer top. Do NOT remove the hinges.

3. Remove the front lower access panel. It snaps at the top and hinges at the bottom. It can be slipped off the hinges.

4. Remove 2 screws at the bottom of the main front panel

5. The front of the dryer top is held in place by two plastic clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver (with a rag wrapped around the tip to minimize paint damage) to pry the top up at each front corner. Then tilt the top up to just past vertical. You now can see the top of the spring that is connected to the door cable.

6. Open the dryer door. Use a putty knife to pry up the plastic plug that holds the cable in place at the door. Remove the old cable from the door and insert the new one. Be sure the cable end without a hole goes into the dryer door. Replace the plastic plug.

7. Feed the new cable through the main front panel and close the door.

8. Loosen but do NOT remove two screws that hold the main front panel to each side panel. Tilt the bottom of the front panel out about 2 inches.

9. Working through the gap between the main front panel and the side, hook the spring into the hole in the cable end.

10. Working through the open top and the gap on the side, move the spring+cable up to the top. Pass the upper end of the spring through the rectangular hole in the top of the main front panel and hook the end into the small hole there.

11. Repeat for other cable as needed.

12. Reassemble all parts. You may need to hold the top of the drum up as you move the main front panel back into place. Install the main front panel lower screws before tightening the upper screws.

First, I moved the dryer out where it would be easily accessable. I then removed the back of the dryer using a nut driver. Once this was complete, I removed the cover holding the heating element. I disconnected the two wires and puled the old element out. I replaced it with the new heating element and reconnected the two wires. I then replace the back cover and moved the dryer back in place. The dryer works and heats much better now. Thankyou

After my husband disassembled the cabinet and removed the drum, we used a putty knife to remove the old seal and carefully glued the new one in place. (A 2 man job to do it without leaking glue everywhere.) We then replaced the belt, following the picture sent by PartSelect and put everything back. (We put all small pieces in labeled envelopes so that putting it back together was easy.) Another helpful hint - take a few digital pictures beforehand in the event that you need to see it to put it back together!

Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, etc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.

The old catch on my dryer door was gone and I was keeping the door closed using tape. I ordered the part and it arrived with no hassles in about 5 days. The repair was too easy. I just popped the new catch in place. It took all of about 30 seconds to complete using no tools. I wish all home repairs were this easy.

There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

It couldn't be easier. I removed the old knob and stuck the new one on the shaft. Perfection in less than 15 seconds!

I am thankful that PartsSelect had this replacement knob. I tried repairing the old one, first with super glue and finally with heat-shrink tubing. Both worked for a while, but eventually the knob epanded enough to not turn the shaft.

First, I removed the wet clothes from the dryer. (Actually, I just kept drying them with cold air until they were dry... hee hee).
Then, I went to PartSelect.com and found a heating element for my make and model. I checked around and came back to PartSelect.com because they had the best price.

I thought about just buying the heating coil and restringing my old one, but I'm glad I didn't because the diameters were not a match and I wouldn't have been able to restring the new larger coil through the insulator holes of my old one.

I ordered my part Sunday night online and it was stated that my part would ship to me by Monday morning. It also said to allow 3-5 days to arrive.
My part was waiting for me Tuesday when I arrived home from work. That was quick!

I took the part out of the box and looked at it and said, "Yep, that's a heating element alright. I hope it fits."

I took the heating element out to the laundry room/garage/wife's shoes and clothing storage and muscled the dryer away from the wall and into a tiny area that she calls my space.

I pulled the lint trap screen out so I could get to those two screws that keep the lint shute attached to the top and unscrewed them.

Next, I lifted the top up just like you would a car's hood. Here's a cool trick to pop the top up. Pound the upper left front with the butt of your hand at the same time you are prying the top up on the left. Do the same on the front upper right area. That should help get that top up.

There was a bracket I knew about that I had to unscrew once the top was up. The bracket holds the top ot the heating element's box. It has to be removed so you can remove the heating element's box from the back in the next step.

With that heating element box bracket removed, I closed the top back down and then put the dryer on the floor with the door down and the back facing up.

I removed all the screws that were holding the back on and put the back out of my way, but still within the confines known as my space.

I pulled two electrical wires connected to a limit switch which were attached to the heating element box. Then I pulled the two power wires from the heating element itself.

Then I wiggled the heating element box out of the dryer and unscrewed a screw that was holding the heating element to the box.

I slipped the old heating element out of the box and put it next to the new one. Then I said a couple cuss words, because I noticed that the new element was much wider than the old one.

I took the new element and tried to slip it in the box. It just barely fit. Wow, that was a close call.

I knew that the element couldn't touch any part of the box it was nested in or it would cause a short and become an electrifying experience to remember. I checked very carefully that the heating element was safely suspended inside the box and no part of coil was touching the box.

Then I reattached the box to the dryer just the way I removed it. I wired it up and the limit switch too. I put the back back on. I stood the dryer back upright and popped the top again. I reinstalled the upper heating element brace back the way it was. It was a bit of a puzzle, because it's shaped funny.

Then I closed the top back down and it snapped into place. I put the lint trap screws back in. I positioned the dryer back were it likes to dance best and plugged it in.

I turned it on and it got hot. End of story!