11082822101 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I referred to the dryers tech sheet for troubleshooting. The start switch was found bad. However, all other connection looked good and control module board appeared ok until I removed it from the machine. Found bottom of board, directly under the motor relay, scorched and burnt. All other components checked out ok. A new $300.00 board would be needed to fix the problem. Not worth fixing a 10yr. old machine! New dryer on order. Sometimes you just can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear! I returned the start switch that took over 8 days receive it. Lesson learned; electronic control boards have two sides. Always visually inspect both sides. It will save you alot of wasted troubleshooting time.

Remove top, front and drum. Top is removed by sliding a putty knife under the front corners and pushing the tabs back. Front is held with screws. Disconnect two electrical connectors. Rollers are easily accessible and changed.

Very easy do it yourself repair, and saved at least $300.00. I watched a video and it took me less than 20 minutes to complete repair. Part fit perfect and I have already ordered another to keep as a spare.

How to repair E1 error/fault on Whirlpool Duet dryer model GEW9200LW0 please watch that video very helpful.

turned off the power and removed the back cover, checked the thermal fuse had no continuity. ordered new part. very easy Installed the new thermal fuse,.replaced the cover, turned on the power and worked fine.

Just like the video, just followed the video
Thanks,

It is odd that this part needed replacement but I am in an area near the Atlantic ocean in a vacation house which is vacant most of the year. The exhaust vent probably brings excessive moisture down to the dryer in the basement. The screen you can see at the inside back of the tumbler (where the heated air enters) rotten out, pieces fell inside and there was danger of something falling in and catching fire. I found no useful source for information (including YouTube) as this part is most easily replaced from the rear of the dryer and the available info was about repairing the heating element, the circuit board, or the exhaust venting pieces which is done from the front.

The bottom line is that the back removes easily. You should:
1. unplug and remove the exhaust shoot
2. remove the top per YouTube or other source
3. take off the back panel over the electrical connections and unscrew the ground; tuck it inside. Don't undo any electrical connections except the ground
4. take off the screws holding the back on (8-9, one is hidden above the exhaust vent) and pull it out of the way; you then have compete access to the "DUCT-AIR" part
4. undo the clip that holds the vent tube (from the heating element) to the part
5. remove the screws that hold the part to the inside back (3?) and push it out of the way
6. remove the clips and remove the old part
7. reassemble in reverse order

I'm over 70 so I took lots of time and breaks but was still done in under two hours. The 2 clips holding the heater element tube to the part were badly rusted and should have been replaced but I made do with the old ones.

Removed the screws replaced the belt and lubricated the wheels and that fixed my Knocking and it runs like when I first got it

Watched on-line video on how to disassemble and test heater element, thermostat, and hi-temp shut down. Heater element was open. Ordered new heater element. Re-installed heater element iaw video provided with parts. Video provide was one of the best I've seen. Explanation on releasing access panel was especially helpful.

Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.

Remove screws, dryer sensor on screen. Put sensor back in place. Secure with screws. The way you take it off go in reverse.

Take pictures along the way.
1. Remove lower front panel using screwdriver to lift up on tabs on top of panel.
2. remove door
3. unplug moisture sensor plugs
4. remove lint trap
5. on back of dryer, remove screws holding upper lid
6. slid up lid forward just a small amount, its hooked in towards the front of the upper lid. you will need to do this so you can can remove two screws under the lid holding the front panel of the dryer on
7. remove the front panel screws mentioned in step 6.
8. Remove lower front panel screws
9. remove front panel
10. reach into dryer at the bottom and release tension from belt pulley, sliding the belt off. (make a note of how the belt is routed around the drive and idler pulleys)
11. slide out tumbling drum
12. with drum removed, use socket wrench and socket to remove old idler pulley.
13. install new idler pulley
14. reinstall tumbling drum
15. slide belt back around tumbling drum, looping belt around drive pulley and around idler pulley.
16. When belt is installed, rotate drum a few revolutions to ensure belt rides correctly.
17. Reinstall front panel
18 slide top panel back into place and secure with screws from back
19. reinstall door
20. reattach moisture sensor plugs
21. reinstall lower panel

Note that the problem was with the pedestal, not the washing machine. In the process of attaching the two units together, the drawer in the pedestal is removed. When I tipped the assembly up, the slide slid out and locked horns with an object, bending the slide. The slide is an easy replacement. Just one screw holds it in place. A slot in the slide mates with a tab to hold the back side of the slide in place.

all that was required was to push the catch into the slot notools needed.

Disassembled dryer. That was the hard part. Figuring out how to get the top off the dryer so I could get the drum out took the most time. The end caps on the control panel had to be removed by forcing them outward to release the plastic catches. Then the bottom corner screws were removed to allow the panel to swing up out of the way. The top panel could now be removed. To gain access to the belt and tensioner the blower and ducting off the front of the motor had to be removed to remove the belt. Now the drum was able to be lifted out. The motor swap was a cinch with no wiring modifications required. Reassembly was the reverse, with the most difficult thing being tightening up the blower fan. This required putting a wrench on the belt end of motor shaft and holding it while reaching thru a narrow gap on top of the fan ducting.