1106118202 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Just slipped it on, it was very simple. My dry cylces were reduced. Worth the $15 I spent to get the part!!!!

I replaced the male end first hoping that a change in the female part would not be needed. Unfortunately no. I used needle nosed pliers to pry the male part out and pushed the new part in. The female part of the door catch was more difficult. I didn't do it in "textbook" form, but got the job done with pliers and a screwdriver. Worth every penny to fix correctly instead of rigging it. Do it!

After removing front door panel (2 screws) I removed the old latch catch and replace with the new part. 4 minutes later, the door was back together, the dryer was running and the door was staying closed.

Unfortunately after i replaced the new switch the drier worked well. After it stopped for the 2nd time we wanted to put a load and start the swit lost contact. It was not working.It lost the contact with the circuit. No clicking sound the drier not functional. I guess need a new switch?

I took out the 2 screws that are located on the top of dryer under the lint filter door. Popped up the whole top of dryer. Opened the dryer door to unscrew the 2 door switch screws. Took off the old broken door switch through the open dryer top and before replacing the new door switch completely I tested it by turning the dryer on and pressing the new switch against the button activator 2 find out if it works. When it did, I carefully put the door switch back so the dryer door can activate it properly and screwed in the 2 screws. Finally, I put the dryer top back down & fastened the last 2 screws under the lint filter door.

removed screws that held the door face to gain access to catch replaced catch reassembled door tried dryer works great!

Incredibly simple! You just pop the other plastic catch out with a butter knife and pop the other on in. This is the second time I have done this over the last 4 years or so.

I followed your short video and found it very easy to do

Turned off circuit breaker to machine. Removed lint trap to allow removal of two Philips screws from vent passage that hold lid on. Opened door and removed two Philips screws that hold switch to front of machine. Using flat blade #2 screw driver pushed on plastic locking tabs under front of machine top about 2" in from either side to allow top to be lifted up from machine. While holding up at 45 degree angle reached in and grabbed switch to pull it out for easy access. Set top down gently once switch was out. While holding switch removed broken switch actuator and installed new actuator on to switch. Lifted top back to 45 degree angle and with left hand held switch assembly in place and started two screws previously removed back into actuator holes. Tightened screws snugly. Lowered top back into plastic locking tabs and gently pushed down to secure top. Installed two screws back to air passage tube for lint trap through two holes in top that were removed at beginning of repair. Install lint trap, turn on circuit breaker and verified operation. Put wet clothes in tub, turned machine on, put away two screw drivers and kissed wife apologizing for taking so long to getting around to repairing machine.

Took 3 screws out used the putty knife to pry the door a part then used the pliers to remove the old door catch and then sapped the new one and put the door back together and I was was done in less than 10 min.

Followed video on PartsSelect website, they made it real easy.

Move dryer away from wall. Unplug the dryer. Open the hinge top from the front edges of dryer. Remove the two screws holding the filter channel onto the top of dryer. Lean the top of dryer back away from the front . Open the dryer door, Locate switch from the top looking into the dryer top opening where you have just leaning the top back out of your way. Unplug the wire from the old switch. remove the old switch and bracket using the flat blade screwdriver for screw removal.
Place the wire on the new switch using the normally open contacts. place switch on bracket and gently position the bracket and switch over the holes designed for the switch and tighten screws using the new Phillips head screws sent with the new switch. place the top back into place and replace the filter channel screws plug in the dryer and job finished. easy as 1-2-3

Called my son. He took off the back put the belt on and we were ready to go.

Removed what was left of the old hinges, installed the new ones. Also added a length of jack chain (same size chain that’s on a toilet flapper) to one side to support the door while open. Tried to chain up both sides but it wouldn’t let the door completely close and depress the switch. Cables are no longer supplied by any parts dealers.

First diagnose the problem. No air coming out the exhaust or filter, things aren’t drying, you can’t hear the blower running.
Fuses or breakers are verified ok and on.
Turn dryer off. Disconnect exhaust tubing after unscrewing it’s clamp. Drag the dryer away from the wall to get access to the back and unplug the 220 v power cable from its socket. Get behind the dryer to remove its back cover plate by unscrewing its holding screws with screwdriver or small socket wrenches.
Vacuum out the back of the dryer removing the powdery dust around the blower motor and pulley and remove the old belt.
Since there is no adjustment arm, you have to stretch the belt around the rim of the blower pulley with both thumbs pulling upward against the motor pulley below.
After the belt is in place you can pull on it to be sure both pulleys rotate so the blower fan will rotate. Then just put the back plate on the dryer, replug it in, push it back enough to hook up the exhaust pipe and push the dryer back to its home spot.
Turn it on and you’re ready to go. Then order a spare belt for the future in about 5 + years.