11044936200 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Replaced pump assembly

my son repairtet

Plastic door hook was broken in half and door lock (DL) error code was showing-- though the hook was still in the door (each half held in by its own screw) and the door actually felt as if it was still latching o.k. After reading some things online, I though it was worth buying new hook since it was cheap, and giving it a try. Got it for a total of about $11.00 a little over 48 hours after placing order. It took about a minute to put it in. Then, tried to start the washer and "Voila"-- same error code still appeared! Read some more stuff online and saw a recommendation for "restting" this error by unplugging and replugging the pink wire harnesses at the back left of the top of the machine, after taking off the top (held on by just 3 screws at the back edge). So I did this (after first unplugging power cord), and this time "Voila", it worked! So I assume the error code was initially caused by the broken plastic hook, but the code stayed in the system (even though I had also tried unplugging the power earlier)- and then was cleared off when I did wired harness unplug/replug operation. So the situation was a little puzzling, but still an "easy fix" overall.

Simple

The washer tech manual stated to: 1) remove the top, 2) control console, 3) front below the door (front load washer), 4) remove the retaining wire, 5) pull back the rubber bellows, 6) remove the three screws and remove the door latch/lock assembly. I discovered that steps 1 through 3 are not required to replace the assembly. Installation is the reverse of steps 4 through 6. That was easy. The difficult part was figuring out how to reset the pressure switch so the drain pump would not start every time you reconnected to the power supply (pressure switch thinks the washer still contains water). With the power disconnected, I disconnected the pressure switch from the central control unit. Then I reconnected the power supply and pressure switch. That reset the pressure switch solved the problem with the drain pump. Washer works fine now.

It was an easy fix,all I had to do was pull the washing machine out and remove the top off the washer,leaving everything connected,I cycled the machine to figure out where the leak was in the first place,then unpluged the washer,turned off the water and removed the water lines from the back of the washer(be sure to have a couple towels handy)disconnected the 4 color coded wires from the inlet valve making note of which color went to which relay,disconnected the hose from the inlet valve,and removed the one screw holding he valve to washer.That was all,then reversed the procedure to put it all back together. success! took about 20 min start to finish.

Could not have been easier. Have spent more time building kids' Star Wars Lego than this took...

Researched the instructions on Partselect website. Followed them to the letter. When the parts arrived, I had them in, the machine reassembled and running in 10 minutes or less. Very simple and straightforward.

This took ten minutes .... super easy .... DO IT YOURSELF!!!! About 75.00 with shipping ... can only imagine this woulkd have been 250 to 300 to have somebody com e onsite.

Made a bad call after googling "bearing squeal for HE 4t" and replaced the bearings and seal on the drum.... Turns out my squeal was coming from the drain pump, didn't realize until after a major tear down and replacement of bearings and seal. Managed to break one of the electrical connectors on the heating element on that repair as well... Compared to the bearing replacement the drain pump was super simple. Lots of good instructions above, the only thing I would add is that if you put a little pressure on the hose clamps and spin them to an easier position to see and get pliers on, they will be much less of a headache. Vice grips were the best tool for getting them released and re-installed. The heating element was pretty easy, loosen the center nut to the end of the threads but don't remove. Use a flat screwdrive to gently pry the unit out. Use a little dish washing soap to lube up the rubber plug on the new one before installing and it slides right in.

Removed 3 screws from back to remove top. Then 1 screw to release the valve from the back. Take off hose spring clamp remove hose, then do it all in reverse oder. It was a snap.

Washed three loads and it was ok but then it stopped draining again. I don't know what to do.

The replacemnt inlet valve was a little shorter than the original. I had to lenghten the slot on the back of the washer to get the mounting screw in the hole to attach the valve. There is only one mounting screw, so this was an important part of the replacement.

Unplug the power first.If you can lean the washer bank and support it with something underneath to make it easier to work on.Removed the 3 bolts at the bottom panel underneath the front door. Pump is right there in front. Unplug the power connection first,you can also remove the wiring that is right in front of the pump so it will be out of the way. remove the pump from it mounting grommets and pull it out a Little so you can get to the hoses at the back of the pump. Using pliers to pull of the hose clamps you can pull off the hoses. Now you can remove the pump out. Do everything in reverse and that's it. I found it to be easier than I thought and took less then 20 mins.

I replaced the pump thinking this was the most likely cause of the problem. The pump is easy to access and get to. The reviews were helpful. The hose clamps were difficult to get back in place especially the one from the washer drain to the pump (need wide-jaw pliers). Now that I have seen the system work, the pump was not bad and the water from the drain still smells bad. I just ordered the filter 8181683, which looks like the only other thing that would prevent the water from draining completely. The drain hose is not blocked.