11028062800 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

fairly simple remove and put back in …I watched a video of a similar Maytag pump replace got some tips…the electoral connection is shielded by a pull up tab…so it was quite simple I got extra hose clamps in case?…didn’t need them

Removed/ Replaced. Machine control motor

The washer would enter the spin cycle, but after starting to spin, would quit, and beep repeatedly. The fault code shown was DL. The manual cited DL as Door Lock malfunction. A check of the door lock switch suggested an internal problem. Sears offered the part at a far greater price, and shipping was several times more than PartSelect.com. PartSelect was chosen, and the part ordered on-line. Within two days the part arrived. Installation was simply a matter of lifting the top of the unit on which the door is supported. IT is done by inserting a narrow screwdriver into the separation, and pressing on the two metal springs holding the top in place. The old part was simple to remove by extracting two phillips head screws and removing the cable from the cable mounts underneath the top surface then threading the cable and plug back through the cable hole. Before that could be completed, the rear cover of the control panel was also removed, and after the plug of the defective switch was removed, the new cable was connected, and threaded back through in the reverse of the removal of the old switch, the phillips head screws, the control panel rear cover and returning the unit top to the resting position and snappin it into place. The Power ON check indicated that the problem fault code was cleared. The unit functions normally with the new switch. Hats off to PartSelect. The part was available in stock, and shipped promptly, and at substantially less cost than Sears.

Removed the softener dispenser and cap that's under it. Used 7/17" socket with an 18" long extension to reach the bolt that holds agitator down. Pulled auger off, pulled lower agitator off. Removed the 6 philips head screws that hold basket hub in place. Removed hub and installed new one, replaced screws. Lightly greased spline and reinstalled lower agitator. The auger has the cam section in it. A trick to get the rollers in place is to secure them to the cam with rubber band. Have string tied to the band. Insert the cam and when almose all the way in, pull rubber band off and the rollers stay in place. Reinstalled the bolt, cap and softener dispenser.

Removed broken hinge, replaced with new.

I disassembled the top half of the machine removed the drum and found a bad bearing. The code F51 said i had a bad motor control board. I had a frozen bearing on the main shaft. Freed up bearing, machine now runs but I need to replace the bearing,

Had to dig a little to find what error code "F1" really meant. Thanks to the Internet. Paperwork with machine advises to call a technician. Once I discovered what the error code indicated, I followed the instructions and removed and replaced the controller. Although it was expensive I didn't have to pay for any labor. Machine now functions normally.

Tilt the machine over to access the bottom I rested it on a dolly.remove the rotor with an allen wrench .then rmove the 4 bolts on the stator .then lift it off the main shaft and unlug the sensor wires . just reverse the process to install the new one (be sure to allign the arrows on the sensor and the stator when reistalling. I wish i could say this solved my problem .my machine runs untill the spin cycle then it starts shaking and gives the uneven load alarm again.

I read the directions on this web site and was able to install the new drainage pump in about 30 minutes. I suprised myself. Thanks.

Well i watched a video on youtube that demonstrated the repair, and it seemed easy enough, so i ordered the parts which arrived quickly enough that we avoided a trip to the laundry mat, very cool! So i did just what they said to do, unplug machine, tape down the lid, use a putty knife to pop the retaining springs in front. I used a long screwdriver to hold up rod on top and then rotate the ball around and let the rod fall through, them i used a yard stick to pop out cup on bottom. I did have assistance holding the drum back so i could see, Then i reversed the process with a new rod. The only reason it took 30 min was i did not put the cups under the balls on top, because it didnt have them in the first place, i decided to put them in after then reading the instructions. The machine runs like new, and my wife is very happy!!

The rod kit fixed the issue. I cant really explain how I did it, because I dint know if I did it the right way.

It was not easy but I dit my sell

The instructions displayed the parts location and and some instruction. The top of the unit will release and pivot up after the two catches at the front are presed in at the front seam. The catches are located about 6 inches in from the sides. Before lifting the top though you should secure the lid to the top. I used some masking tape. Pivot the top up and brace the top to prevent it from falling back too far or forward over your work access. I leaned the top back against the wall behind the washer. Once the top was secure I began by lifting one conner of the tub assembly so that a corner dampner assembly could be removed. The top of the dampener assembly has a loop which grabes the plastic cup at the top frame of the washer. Lift the tub assembly (about 30lbs) on one corner and as the hook becomes free rotate the plastic cup to disengage the hook from the cup. To make it easier to work inside the washer frame I used the bar clamp to hold the tub asembly to one side so that I could reach along the damper assembly to pop loose the top retainer at the tub by pushing down with a screwdriver. Once the dampener assembly was loose it can be removed and the new one inserted in its place. I repeated these steps for each dampener and was done in about 30 minutes. You may want to note there is a wire clip on the right rear dampener and this was easily removed and reinstalled on the new assembly.

To start out, I ordered two parts for a washer, a water valve and a recirculation pump. I found out that one of the solenoid switches went bad on the valve body. I tried to find just this switch but found out that you have to buy the whole valve assembly just to get one of the switches. The recirculation pump was making a really bad noise when it would run. The problem with the pump, the impeller that pushes the water out of the pump was in pieces in the pump head housing. I paid to rush the delivery so the washer was not unusable for every long. The parts showed up as planned with one problem. One of the solenoid switches was not attached to the valve body, it was broken off of the valve body. I called the service number that was on the packing slip. The lady I spoke with about the broken part apologized and quickly placed another order with the same part. Down side was she could not get it sent out that day because it was late afternoon on a Friday and the shipping department was closed. So the earliest I would receive the part would be the following Tuesday. She did refund my rush delivery cost, so i paid for just standard delivery. I had the recirculation pump on the Friday I was hoping for but still could not get the washer running until I received the water valve the following Tuesday. I told the lady I understand her hands are tied about shipping the part out that day, Since there was nobody there to ship it. I also understand that sometimes things do get broke in transit. The part was delivered on the following Tuesday as promised. I opened up the package to inspect it. This time the part inside the package was packed a little different and a little more secure. I was glad the service department was easy to deal with, very respectful and willing to correct the problem. All and All The repair went really well, had no problems installing the parts what so ever. (To make things a little easier to remember where they go)Leave the old wire harness intact with the old water valve when you remove it. Once the new water valve is install you can reference how to install the new wire harness from the old water valve. The pump had 3 screws and 2 hose clamps to remove it. It is easier if you can tilt the washer forward (just a little) to change out the pump. You can change out the pump without tilting the washer, just easier if tilted. I would order from partSelect again. I would recommend my friends and family to order from partSelect.

At the time that I received the order part, Me and my Wife and 15 years old Douther got on it. We removed the very top of the counter and replaced once at the time every supension rod cleaned nice and neat. then we put the top on it's place conected the water hoses pluged it in and it was ready to roll.