11016964500 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

It was easy, take off the cap, then loosen the nut. Take it apart, change the dog ears, put back together. It was done.

I had no idea what the problem was...other than the drum would not spin and it made a horrible noise...so I figured the motor was still good. I figured the repair man would charge me $200 and a new washer is $300...so what have I got to lose? First, I unplugged the unit. I started by removing the top control box by removing two screws in the back of it. Once off, there are two big clips which hold the body in place. That came off easy. I removed the back next and now had everything out in the open. I disconnected the exit greywater pump which was easy with two snaps. I tipped the unit on the side and removed the motor - also attached with two snap on clips. Between the motor and the gearbox there is a shock absorbing coupler which consist of two white plastic rings with 3 fingers each. These interconnect with a black rubber piece. Once of the white rings was cracked in half and one of the fingers was broken off. So that easy to figure out. I ordered a new coupling on partselect on Friday afternoon. On the next morning, Saturday, Fedex showed up with the replacement part. I was pretty amazed at the fast service since I only paid $7 for ground shipping. Anyway, I put the new coupling on and put the whole thing back together...we've run a dozen loads since without a hiccup. Beats dumpstering the unit or calling a repairman. I spent about an hour to take it apart and about an hour to get it all back together. You definately need a good socket set, screwdrivers. Good luck.

Unplug power cord. Turn off hot and cold water to washer. Disconnect water lines at the back of the washer, but mark which is hot and cold on the hoses . Remove drain hose from the sink tub or sewer line but keep it elevated so the water don't run out. Tip over on the backside but put something under the back side like a tool box to keep the top elevated a little bit, but not on the control panel just below it. Now remove the two screws that are in the motor retainer. Now pry motor retainers loose then lift out motor and remove old coupling. Now install new coupling. If it is a little tight on the shaft, use a deep socket a little bigger than the shaft to tap them on. Line up coupling while putting motor in place. Then snap on motor retainers. Look at the coupler make sure it is straight and not s shape. If it is s shape, remove and tap coupler on shaft a little more. If it is straight then reinstall the two screws you removed in the beginning from the motor retainers. Hook up drain line, water lines hot to hot, cold to cold. Then check for leaks on water lines. Plug in ,turn on, if it sounds ok. Don"t stand there, wash something.

Thank you for asking me how it went. the washer would not spin or pump water out, so I put it on its side and saw that the coupling was bad.
so I found you on the internet, thankyou very much, and put a order in for the part. well waiting for the part, I took the old coupling out it was easy, there was two metal bands one on each side of the motor took them off two bolts holding a plate on, and had old coupling in hand. and it was easy to put back with the new coupling. I enjoyed working on it. Dennis

First I removed the cover but not the back. Then I removed the water pump by useing a flat head screwdriver to remove the clips. I did not have to disconect the water hoses. Then I used a driver to remove the motor clips and pulled the motor off. You need to put something under the motor to support it until you remove the screws holding the brackets. The coupling came off with ease. I replaced it with the new one using a spark plug socket to tap it onto the motor. I did the same thing to the other half that attatched to the gear assembly. It will be easier to put the black rubber center on the gear assembly then line it up with the motor by turning the blades. Then I put everything back in reverse order. Very easy job.

After flipping the washer on it's side snap off the clips that hold the motor in place and discard the old coupling. The new coupling fits in very snug some may need a little persuation to attach but once attached the motor lines up nicely and just snap back the clips, turn the washer over and test with a fresh load.

First. I unplugged the washing machine from the electrical source. Then, I unscrewed the two screws in the front and the two screws on the back holding the control panel onto the washer. I lifted the control panel off and let it hang in the back of the washing machine. I unplugged the white plug connecting the control panel from the machine. I used a screw driver to pry the two giant spring like clamps and the cabinet released from the actual washing machine. At the bottom, I found the pump, unclamped the small clamps holding the pump on, pulled it off, installed the new one ( I used pliers to get the hose clamps where they needed to be) and then reversed by steps. Easy as pie and saved me a bunch of money

First, disconnect from power & turning off the water. Then, accessed the part by tipping the unit back enough to work. Remove the hoses by loosening the spring clamps. Here is where things got a bit sticky. The pump motor shaft had corroded enough to make removal of the pump a wrestling match of sub-WWF levels. Once forced off, additional time was spent removing corrosion from the shaft to facilitate fitting the new unit. A little lube was used here. Re-assembly was quick & washer was righted, plugged in and returned to service. It is a simple repair which can, with a little acting ability, be portrayed as a monumental task requiring super-human strength & the wisdom of Solomon. I played the part well enough to merit a huckleberry pie for my effort & sacrifice! Thanks!

I used pliers to loosen the hose clamps and the small springs that hold the water pump to the water pump motor. The old pump then came off by simply pulling it off. The new was was the reverse. Everything worked well.
The biggest problem had been finding that the water pump was leaking. I first tried to fix it with epoxy but it is apparentlly made of nylon and the expoxy didn't stick well.
I am still annoyed that Whirlpool makes a water pum that leads so soon. The Whirlpool site showed my model number as non existent. Later, after purchasing the right one from this third party site, Whirlpool sent email that they found the model number and gave me a much higher replacement price for the pump.

Unpluged washer. Turned washer on its side, unpluged wire harness to motor. Removed hoses to pump on motor, removed screws and nuts holding motor, then pulled out motor. Popped off old couplings,intalled new, reassembled. Piece of cake!

It took me awhile to figure out how to get the shell off the washer frame. (I didn't know about flipping it on its back). Once the moving parts were revealed, the water pump was staring at me with both ports. I turned the machine on and saw that the leak was coming from the pump.
1. Cut power
2. unclipped pump with pry with screwdriver
3. detatched both hoses - flood ensued
4. gently pulled pump off transmission
5. replaced pump

I reccommend doing this repair with empty tub.

i had to strip the outer housing of the wahing machine apart the remove the motoe from the transmission to get to the coupling. once i recived the coupling( which was very quickly) i just reversed those steps.

After the wife held the phone to the washer so I could hear the horrendous noise it was making. And I screaming at her "shut it off, shut it off!' I came home and took the agitator apart, and found the directional dogs worn out. Went to the computer and easily ordered new parts, which came very quickly. I took off the agitator with a long extension and socket, put in the new dogs and reversed for installation. Told the wife get back to doing the laundry!

Raised washer on cinder blocks high enough to get underneath, removed wiring, capacitor (because it got in the way), removed spring clips from pump, removed pump, no water spillage this way. removed clips from motor, removed motor, pulled old broken coupling rubber ring and plastic pieces out, used a spark plug driver to press new ones in place on the gear shaft and motor as they will fit tighter because they have a metal reinforcement that the original did not have, lined up the two halfs and clipped motor back on, cliped pump back on, reconnected wires again, lowered off the blocks and washed a couple loads that night.

I removed four srews holding the control panel and laid it to the side, then removed a screw holding the ground on and disconnected the electrical connection. The lid needs to be open to remove the switch. Just remove the switch and reverse sequence. To replace the coupling , I laid over the washer and removed two screws holding the straps connecting the motor to the transmission. After seperating, I pulled off old couplings and reinstalled the new ones on both the motor and transmission. I had to tap couplings on. Then reversed the installation and set backup and tried it out. It worked great.