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Models > 11016502691 > Instructions

11016502691 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 11016502691 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 11016502691
76-90 of 1,165
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Washer basket off-center and wobbling during spin cycle

  • Customer: Craig from Woodland Hills, UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Remove the washer case/enclosure to expose all the internal parts. Lie on the floor and with pliers and a strong arm. Remove and replace each spring one at a time. Pretty straightforward.

Lid Switch failed

  • Customer: David from Roanoke, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I didn't think this would be particularly difficult but it was easier than I expected.

UNPLUG THE MACHINE

Remove the two screws (one on the right , one on the left) That allows the control panel to swing up.

Lift the panel up.
There is a plastic wiring connector that is secured in the top of the washer housing. Press the sides of the top of the connector and remove the top connector. (The bottom part of the connector will still be secured to the housing)

There will be two clamps one on the right side under the control panel, and one on the right.
Use a screwdriver to pop out these clamps. This is where I used the washcloth to place between the screwdriver and the washing machine body to avoid scratching the surface.

Once you pop out these clamps, the housing is free from the tub frame.
Twist the housing just a little and tilt it forward. IT will just slide off the frame.
You can now take the housing wherever you want to more easily get to the switch. It is mounted in the housing.
Take a good look at the way the switch is mounted and the wiring tube is secured because you will need to at least have an idea how to put it back into place.

There will be two clips that hold the wiring tube in place. One on the side and one on the top. Use a screwdriver (and the washcloth if necessary) to loosen and remove the clips.

There are two screws that hold the switch to the housing. Remove these and keep the screws. You will need them to attach the new switch.

Now the only thing keeping you from removing the switch is the connector which you saw earlier before removing the housing. Squeeze the sides of the clip and free it from the housing.

Mount the new switch into the housing and route the wiring. You may have to use a small pair of pliers to squeeze the clips back together to hold the wiring tube to the housing.
Attach the green ground wire to the housing frame just like the one you removed to get the wring tube off the housing.

Push the connector end through the hole designed for it until it snaps into place.

Replacing the Housing back on the frame:
Let the housing all the way down, and slide the front lip of the housing UNDER the front brace of the tub frame.
Carefully let the housing lower onto the side rails (the housing will go on TOP of the side rails).
You may have to gently twist the housing to let it fall into the proper place.
Take the clips and secure the housing back to the tub frame.
These just POP back into place with applied pressure.
Re-connect the lid switch to the control panel wiring connector.
Swing the control panel back down into place and replace the screws on the left and right sides.

PLUG IN THE MACHINE

Viola!! You are ready to perform your favorite laundry task.(Yeah RIGHT!!) Or just yell "HONEY the washing machine is ready for you." Anyway, after the swelling in your eyes go down you will see that your washer is ready to use.

This took me about 40 minutes but some of that time was spent understanding just what to do. With these instructions, you may be able to do it in 30 minutes.

I hope this helps you. Kudos to the Whirlpool Engineers who made this machine easy to work on. This is the 3rd repair I have done on mine. (Rebuilt the agitator drive and replaced the timer) For 18 years of use.. that ain't bad. I think it is good for another 5 years at least. Total cost for this repair: Part=$37, Shipping=$7, Time spent=40 minutes. Not bad considering a serviceman is going to charge $90 labor for the first hour plus parts.

tub oscillation

  • Customer: leonard from phil campbell, AL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
placed washer on side and installed new pads
and returned washer upright

Crossed threaded plastic on old valve was leaking

  • Customer: David from Amity, AR
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Removed screws on top of machine to remove the control unit out of the way. Then used large regular screw driver to pry out the two clips that hold the back of the washer tight to the top frame. This allows the back to come away from the machine enough to get the water inlet valve free. Didn't have to remove the bolts at the bottom of the back of the machine (they were pretty rusty) Just removed the single screw holding the water inlet valve in place, slid it down and away from the back cover and could fish it out to the side and disconnect the hose (with plyers) and slide off electrical clips (make a note of which clip goes to which valve.) I removed the part first so I could make sure I was ordering the right one. When the part came (very promptly by the way) it went back together easy. Only question was regarding reinstalling the wires since I didn't mark which way they went. I knew which one went on the Hot and Cold but didn't know if it mattered which clips went on each terminal. Figuring it was AC guessed it didn't matter so put it together the way the connectors seemed to want to lie naturally. Put it together making sure no hoses or wires where pinched or rubbing against sharp edges. Replaced the rubber washers in the hoses and made sure the hose connectors turned freely (they had been rusted a bit and didn't turn on the hose freely and I think this was the start of the cross threading problem) This time the hoses went back on very easily, screwed them hand tight not forcing anything at any time (DIDN"T USE PLIERS!). Tried water and no more leaks. Washer filled faster also, think this was because the screens on the water valve were plugged. I'll have to remember to take the hoses off and make sure the screens are clear every couple years or so. If you are having slow fills, suggest you check this first before tearing in to the machine.

Washer tub off balance and noisy

  • Customer: Gregory from Kent, OH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.

Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverage with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.

Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors

Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.

If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.

Over full

  • Customer: Juan from Humble, AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the four screws,
then I replace the old part whet the new part,
It was easy.
thank you
Juan

Washer would'nt spin

  • Customer: Dean from Poplar Grove, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
diconnected water supply and discharge, unplugged the unit, removed the aggitator, laid the washer on it's back, romoved the hoses from the pump, took out 3 bolts, removed the motor/transmission and replaced the clutch and put it all back together.

Machine agitated during cycle but would not spin clothes dry.

  • Customer: Kurt from Bremerton, WA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the excellent video instructions. They say you can perform the repair without removing the enclosure, but when I saw how easy it was to remove it, it definitely improves the access and speeds the repair. Have a piece of wire handy to to hold the pump assembly out of the way. Installed new clutch kit and it runs like a champ.

No agitation, No spin, pump OK

  • Customer: Ernest from Midlothian, VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
I was familiar with the Kenmore / Whirlpool direct drive mechanism but at first I could not determine how to release the console. I finally found the end cap trim pieces would pop off revealing the 2 screws that hold the console in place. After removing them the console flips up and over the backboard. I then removed the 2 clips that hold the cabinet to the backboard, unpluged the lid switch connector and then tipped the entire cabinet forward and off the frame. This gives you access to the entire washing machine mechanism.
Next I released the 2 metal clips that hold the pump on and push it out of the way leaving the hoses connected. Next I released the 2 clips that hold the pump on, these clips also have a screw to secure them. I was then able to set the motor to the side without removing any wires.
The coupling parts had broken and were already off of the motor shaft and the input drive shaft of the transmission. I put the new drive parts on and had to tap them down untill they were flush with the end of the shafts. I then put the rubber coupling on the transmission drive end and aligned the motor drive to mate into the other holes in the coupling as I put the two back together. I then re attached the 2 motor clips with screws and reinstalled the pump with it's clips. I then reinstalled the cabinet onto the frame and replaced the cabinet clips. I then plugged in the lid switch connector and flipped the console back over and screwed it down. I then reinstalled the trim caps that had me stumped to begin with. The unit tested out OK.

there was a hole in the original drain hose

  • Customer: Kathy from Pittsburgh, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 9 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
First, I read the previous repair stories, so I knew what step to do first. So, first I took the hose off of the drain, then I removed it from the washer. And as the previous repair story stated, some water came out and I had a towel ready to catch the water that was in the hose. I threaded the clamp onto the new hose, pushed the new hose onto the washer, used the pliers to open the clamp to better clamp the hose onto the washer. Then, placed the drain hose into the drain pipe and it was done! Thanks for such a great site!

washing machine not draining

  • Customer: michael from princeton, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Tilt machine on its side,snap off the two retaining straps and remove the pump and sanded the shaft on the electric drive motor to remove rust ,Install new pump and retaining straps and unit now running great.

My drain hose had cracked and was leaking.

  • Customer: Miguel from San rafael, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Once I finally found the part I needed, the repair was very simple and took only a few minutes. Thanks to the very helpful operator to walk me through the diagram to find the corresponding number for the part. I really appreciate your help!

Spider coupling between motor and transmission broken

  • Customer: Robert from Friendswood, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
Followed the video on the website. I removed the hoses from the pump rather than removing the pump as suggested in the video. Then separated the motor from the transmission and replaced the coupling; then reattached the motor and hoses. Lining up the washer cover and clamping it back on was the most trouble. But all in all, a easy repair.

noisy

  • Customer: clinton from selah, WA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
just like video showed really helpfull

Washer would not work in agitate or spin cycle

  • Customer: yesenia from apopka, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Coupler is design to break when washer is overloaded or out of balance. Saves the motor from being burned out. Very easy repair. Unhook washer hoses and electrical plug...tip washer on side if there is no bottom to washer instead of removing side panels. Unhook clamps to water pump using flathead screwdriver. Water pump comes off without unhooking either of the two hoses. Remove 2 electrical connections and two clamps from motor using socket and screwdriver. Motor pulls out very easy...make sure you are holding motor so it does not drop onto floor. Remove motor mounting plate with socket. Remove old coupling using stubby flat screwdriver from both motor and transmission shafts. Install new coupling on transmission by placing a large socket onto plastic piece of new coupling and tapping lightly with hammer until flush with shaft. Install rubber piece of coupling...tap new plastic piece onto motor shaft using socket and hammer. Reinstall motor mount. Turn motor shaft so coupling pieces are aligned. Reverse order to reinstall motor and pump. I tilted the tub slightly when reinstalling the motor and pump as it is a tight fit...just be patient during this step.

The last step in this process is to go tell your wife that she in fact is NOT getting the new $2000 front loading washer and dryer set she saw at Lowes because you just fixed her washer for $20 including shipping.

It really is an easy fix...takes longer to unhook and move the washer than to replace part. Thank You Partselect for your excellent website and speedy shipping of product.
All Instructions for the 11016502691
76-90 of 1,165