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10781-1 General Electric Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 10781-1
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cooktop inner ring did not work
Dear PartSelect:

I am very impressed by your service and company. My order arrived in less than 24 hours. It was a perfect match and is currently in service. I am very satisfied with the entire experience and will use your company again.

I simply opened up the cooktop with a screwdriver and disconnected the wires to the affected burner. After the part arrived, I reconnected them. I had to swap over two brackets from the old burner, so don't throw it away until the new one arrives. It went back together very easily and worked immediately.

Matt Brennan
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Matthew from Lexington Park, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
0 of 2 people found this instruction helpful.
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Trim has tendancy to rust on range oven door
Unscrewed bottom screws, replaced trim. No trouble.
Parts Used:
Bottom Trim - White
  • Carole from San Diego, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Rusted oven door trim
Removed old part by removing the screws at the boottom of the oven door. I wasn't sure if the glass oven door cover would remain in place once the trim piece was removed, fortunately I was ready when it came down. The glass cover is large and heavy so you need to be ready to handle the bulk of this piece once the last screw is removed. Cleaned everything and with the help of my wife, who secured the oven door cover in place, secured the new trim piece by replacing the screws. What a difference, looks like new! PartSelect provided great service in terms of speed and part acciracy.
Parts Used:
Bottom Trim - White
  • Todd from Pittsburgh, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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A large burner (haliant Burner 8" ) went out on my Hotpoint Electric Range
I ordered the part on a Monday and Tuesday afternoon I received it! I went a route I often take first. I read the instructions of others before starting my job and opened the top of the range. There are two screws under the range top in front near the oven door, one on either side, that must be removed. After this I opened the top of the range and positioned a piece of 2X2 about 20 inches long at an angle to hold the top up while I worked on the burner. I then used my phone to take a close up picture of the old burner while in place in my range so I could refer to it when putting the new one in place. I then took a pair of needle nose pliers and pulled off the wiring, then removed lock washers under the burner and removed the old burner, being careful not to lose the washers and springs. I took the new burner and layed it along side the old one to see exactly how it would be placed under the glass cover. I replace the springs and lock washers then referred to my photo and replace all the wires to the burner as they had been. Then lowered the top in place and put the screws back in place. That was it. I'm a 67 year old female, if I can do this, anyone can!
Parts Used:
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
  • Ruth from Potosi, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Wrench set
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Twisting of stuck cook-top killed the event
The age of the system resulted in the cook top being heavily stuck by food-stuff to the range surface. The result was a twisting of the top when breaking it free. It caused the cooktop (a $500+ part) to crack diagonally across the whole surface. Thus ended the quick do-it-yourself process, and out to buy a new range. Parts-select was very good about the return process of the un-used and un-opened burner element.
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • James from Kingsville, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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the paint started to chip off.
remove the door, removed about six screws and did a clean up on the glass. the replacement part was screwed back in place. so easy
Parts Used:
Bottom Trim - White
  • vanessa from runnemede, NJ
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Wrench set
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large burner on the dual element not working
The part arrived much sooner than I anticipated. The job was a little harder and took a little longer for me because I'm not good at repairing things. I usually have to call someone. However, I followed the step by step instructions that were provided both on the website and with the mailed item and had no problems. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. The tools needed were very basic - all of which I had on hand. If I could do it - anyone can.
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Alan from Medina, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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Small burner not working, outside was fine
Followed directions that I found on the internet and it was easy to remove the old burner and replace it with the one I ordered from you. There was no problems at all.
Parts Used:
Dual Radiant Element - 9 Inch
  • Lynda from Burdock, SD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Trim part on bottom of door was rusty
I ordered the part, It came a few days later,,Within 15-20 minutes, I had it installed..Pretty easy...Thanks
Parts Used:
Bottom Trim - White
  • Richard from Euclid, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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8 inch burner was burnt out
replacement was easy. pulled away the stove from wall. unplug the stove. open oven door. remove the two hex head screws holdings stove top. raise the stove top in the front. supported stove top with a 16 inch piece of wood. place New Burner under old burner. remove old burner remove wires remove old burner and place it on top of new burner connected the wires from burner to new burner. install new burner. remove support lowered top down. plugged in stove tested. .burner. burner w.ork fine. reinstall hex head screws back top. pushback stove back into the wall. testes over again. all the stove work done.
Parts Used:
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
  • Luis from Kissimmee, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Bad Burner
I simply removed the 2 anchor screws in front of the stove and wrote down the wiring order on the instillation diagram, removed the old burner, removed the two studs, made sure they were installed on the right numbers place them in the new burner, wired the new burner, placed the springs respectively. Placed them in the correct holes in the frame to be sure that the burner was aligned properly. Put the washers on the studs and replaced the frame screws, lowered the cook top and returned the screws to lock the cook top in place.
Parts Used:
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
  • Roosevelt from Waggaman, LA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
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uneven heating of oven
This repair was super easy. I removed the two screws holding the oven sensor in place, pulled the sensor from the oven wall to expose the two wires attached to the sensor cut and spliced in the new sensor as per instructions. The supplied wiring kit made this splice very easy. I then reinserted the wires and sensor from the oven wall, put the screws back in place tested the oven. Oven now works like new and I got bonus points from a happy wife!
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • John from Sandstone, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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The range kept giving an F2 alarm
When I got the part I removed the tin cover (two screws)on the back of the range. I removed the sensor by removing the two screws inside the oven and pulled out the sensor. taking the instructions advise, I checked the sensor with my ohm meter and although it read 1.1 ohms as compared with the recommended 1.09 ohms at room temperature in the instructions, went ahead and changed the unit. The connector did not fit my particular model so I spliced the wiring and using the two included wire nuts made the connection. I reinstalled the sensor, reattached the gas line, plugged it in and tried the oven before I put it back in place. The oven works great now and it was super easy.
Parts Used:
Oven Sensor
  • Les from Coal Creek, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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8" Haliant element stopped working/burned out!
After watching the demonstration on YOU TUBE by two separate persons, , I felt I could accomplish this repair job by myself. After all, if a 9 months pregnant lady on YOU TUBE can do it in 15 minutes then so could I. However, my particular stove turned out to be a bit more involved, and different than those whose demonstrations I had viewed! .. First turn off your electrical power at the circuit breaker. There is no need to unplug the stove, just test by turning it on and observing if the display is lit or the burners come on. If it doesn't then you are good to start the repair with the power off. 1) Open the oven door, then bend over and check underneath. There are two screws one on each side at the front. Using an 8 mm socket wrench undo those screws and put them in a safe place where they wont roll away. 2) I would suggest using an old towel or an old sheet once you have the stove top lifted to cover your work surface, so if you drop any little parts that might roll away, you will be able to just pick them up without a problem. Next you will need something to prop the stove top open or someone to hold it for you. I used the box that my new element came in and that worked well. 3) Here's where my stove differed.. I had a metal retaining bar across the two front elements holding them up in place. .. I unscrewed the two small screws that held it in place at the edge of the stove. (I just did it on the side where I was replacing the element). This does not release your element just the bar so you can get access to the element. 4) Next, using your pliers you will see a couple of round washers that have teeth, these are holding a spring in place on a metal peg, this keeps the element from falling or moving out of position.. It was a bit difficult releasing the washers but I eventually did it, with my pliers, and then had to straighten the washers out for use afterwards 5) Once the washers are off, this frees the spring and allows the element to be removed. from the bar. 6)Next, I recommend taking a picture of the wiring, so you will know what goes to where. There are four wires on the old element, so I just followed the color coded placement and fasten them in the same place onto the new element. The wires are a bit stiff to remove, and if you are using pliers be careful as they are fragile and could break. 6) When I removed my GE replacement element from the packaging, it turned out to be a little different, and did not have the two metal pegs on it. In order to make it fit so I could do the repair. I unscrewed the two pegs from the old element, then counting around the outside holes on the new element to get them in the exact same place, I then attempted to screw them in.. This was the difficult part as they did not easily fit, and I had to ream out the holes to get the posts to screw into the new element. 6) Once that was done, the rest is easy just putting it back together the same way you took it apart. With the pegs screwed in place and the four wiring clips put on the new element, then it should not take long to complete. Next fit the spring over the metal peg first, then put the peg through the hole on the retaining bar. Make sure you get them lined up in the correct position. If you don't then they will be out of alignment with the Ring marking on the glass surface. Check this before you get it all put back together. The retaining bar has four holes in it, so you will see what I mean. The metal pegs on my element went into two opposing holes. Once that is done, the spring goes over the peg, then the peg goes into the retaining bar, and lastly, the small round washer fits the bottom of the peg to keep the spring held tight and the element in place on the metal retaining bar. You are almost done. Next simply put the retaining bar back up, make sure your element lines up on the top of your stove in the position it was before, then put the two small screws
Parts Used:
Large Haliant Burner with Limiter - 8"
  • Gwendoline from Vero Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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All Instructions for the 10781-1
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