10666642K00 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

Followed the video instructions.

Toddler left the fridge door open for an undocumented amount of time. The freezer was operating perfectly but the refrigerator was not cooling. After some research I ordered the part needed and went to work. Process was simple, just keep track of the fans mounting bracket. I installed it upside down and the holes didn't align with the back wall freezer cover.

Step 1: Unplug the fridge
Step 2: Gloves and safety goggles
Step 3: Tools - Socket Set and screw drivers. Hammer and chisel for the ice build up.
Step 4: Remove the back wall of the freezer carefully
Step 5: Remove fan and motor housing, unplug Hot, Neutral and ground wire from motor
Step 6: Drink a beverage
Step 7: Remove fan and motor from housing. You will have to reuse the rubber gaskets/washers so do not dispose.
Step 8: Install new motor and connect the hot, neutral and ground. Do not overtighten the screws connecting the motor housing to the mounting bracket.
Step 9: Before mounting the bracket, plug in the fridge to confirm the fan is operating.
Step 10: Put everything back and have another beverage.

I took a chance and ordered a switch that is next to the top of the door. looked for how to remove it easily done in ten minutes works fine last long time.

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

I hand screwed the fill tube into the water tube and stuck it into the freezer hole. I screwed the fill tube to the back of the refrigerator.

Thanks so much! You saved me a bundle!!

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.

Used the suggested problem list here to narrow down that the repair was most likely the run capacitor. Poped the new one in and I now have better control of my compartment ranges. I have a temperature gauge in each compartment. Check them every opening of the doors.

Removed the access panel on back of unit located the Run Capacitor on the compressor and removed the bad one and put the new one on and pugged refrigerator back in and it started up and works fine now

I pulled the socket out and unplugged the wires. I replaced the light socket by plugging in the wires and snapping the light socket into place. A very simple fix.