10655603400 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

I still have the parts, which look great. My son completely emptied to ice bin, de-iced the unit, cleaned the coupling.... it works.

took the shelf out. slid both old side tracks out. new parts had two small plastic nipples on the end of the track that I had to remove. Then the part slid in and it is good as new. Thank You

Replacing the door closing cams, starts with emptying the door of all foodstuffs. Remove upper hinge cover. While supporting the door, remove three upper hinge screws with the nutdriver. Lift upper hinge from top and lift door off lower hinge pin. Remove the cam retaining screws on both the bottom of the door and the lower hinge pin. Pry (if needed) the worn cams from their position. Install new cams making sure to line up the screw holes. Re-install screws, tightening just snug. Lift door back onto lower hinge pin. Set upper hinge back in place with screws loosely installed. Check door gap, top to bottom to ensure proper alignment. Tighten upper hinge screws and re-install hinge cover. Check door for proper function.

I've replaced the door cams in the past, but they didn't last very long. I finally realized on my own that both parts need to be replaced at the same time. One piece is on the case-side of the bottom hinge and the mate is on the door-side of the bottom hinge. They both have a ramp shape, with door ramp riding up the hinge ramp as you open the door. The ramp shape makes the door want to slide back down the ramp to close automatically. These are plastic parts that wear out over time. If you don't replace both at the same time, the ramp shapes don't match and they wear out quickly. They are inexpensive parts, so always replace both at the same time. I added a thin layer of petroleum jelly to help them glide better. Hopefully this fix will last a long time. It's extremely easy. First take off the top hinge of the door. Then lift the whole door off the bottom hinge. You can set it on a chair with the bottom hinge hanging over the edge of the chair. Replace the two parts, one on the door bottom hinge and one on the refrigerator case bottom hinge. Easy as pie. The only tool needed is a nut driver. You need a helper to help lift and balance the door while you work on it.

Replaced the two circuit boards

Based on research done on your site, I concluded that my problems was the icemaker control. The video showed me exactly what to do. During removal, I dropped the unit and broke the water fill cup. Ordered the control unit (as well as a replacement for the broken cup). Installed in about ten minutes. You really can't mess up. It only goes in one way! The next day, bucket was full of ice. Thanks for all the help. I figured I saved $200.00 on the cost of a technician call.

I followed the simple steps in the awesome repair video!

Replaced emitter and receiver boards. That did not fix the problem, ordered valve hope that is it.

Took the new chut set it into the ice dispensing openening,then cliped in place,End of repair.

At first I thought the problem ws with the water valve. I tested it and got a normal reading. Just as Partselect suggested, it was the Icemaker Control and Motor Assembly. Once I removed the old one I noticed it was dry rotted on the plastic stem that turns the wheel. I tried to replace it while it was still in the freezer. That didnt work very well so I ended up taking the whole ice maker out as shown in the video. Once everything was back together and plugged in I heard that sweet sound of water flowing down the chute into the ice maker. About 4 days later the ice bucket was full to the top with ice.

I shut the water relieved the water pressure. unplugged the refrigerator removed the electronic control board and emitter.there was one screw i took off on the right rear side of the ice maker to remove a wire connector cover .then on the left front bottom side of the ice maker assembly i took a flat head screw driver gently pushed up on the plastic clip and it pulled straight out disconnected the wiring harness put the new icemaker control motor assembly in.put the assembly back in.the new emitter and receiver boards in turned the water and power back on.it took about a hour before the ice tray filled up with water and started doing it's thing very easy fix.

Changed the Motor Assembly. Wasn't the problem. If I had followed your trouble chart a little farther I would have found out it was the circuit boards. All is well and I might add that yor guide with the parts and video are priceless. Very Happy. Lowell Onstad

As your video showed. Used kitchen knife to get connection tight

I did remove the run capacitor of the starthing kit of compressor and another one new. It work fine.

I followed the instructions given by your demonstration. I took the back screw off, dropped the wire plastic cover. I then used the screwdriver to push the two (2)slots in and pulled the icemaker out and then unplugged it. I believe unplugging it was a little hard because the plug was pretty well sealed together and frozen. After finally getting the plug apart I then pulled the icemaker fully out. After pulling the cover off and putting it on the new one per your demonstration, I then inserted it back in. I stuck my hand behind the icemaker and bent the hose with my index finger and thumb so that it would drop into the water tray and then slid the icemaker back in until it snapped back in the slots. I then put the plug cover back on and reinserted the screw. I forgot to mention taking the front cover off before removing the icemake and reinserting it after replacing the icemaker. I would highly suggest customers follow your demonstration, it paid off well. I watched it about 8 times before I received the icemaker in the mail. Oh by the way water started flowing into the icemaker with 4 minutes and ice started coming out in about 30 minutes. As the icemaker got colder it started producing the ice faster. It's a sweet sound hearing the ice drop into the container.