10651562100 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Completely disconnected the power. Just shutting off the ice maker switch does not shut off the power to these boards. The emitter and Receiver boards are located in the side panels of the freezer-one on the right and the other on the left. Just remove the 3 screws in each cover and disconnect the wire connectors and install the new boards. It's very straight forward and easy to do.

checked the close and open switch on front door first

from the back of the freezer unscrewed the water feed to the feed tube. unscrewed the tube from the freezer and removed it. Ran hot water through the fill tube and then reinstalled the tube back into the freezer. Cycled the ice maker and the water started filling the icemaker. Did not use the water inlet valve that I ordered. Matter of fact.. I returned it. Always remember to check the fill tube and make sure it is not frozen.

I watched a couple of videos on your website about how to install a couple of parts that could possibly be causing the problem. Then I went and took the cover off of the area where the ice and water dispenser are in the door. I could tell from watching the videos which parts to look at to see where the problem might be. I figured out which part it was because I could see where it was broken. I then ordered the part. After I received the part I watched the videos again and then did the repair. VOILA! It worked. I put everything back together and the water dispenser was working. I was so pleased that I didn't have to call a repair man and I actually fixed it myself! My husband was so glad too.

I followed the video instructions to replace the ice maker controller. Works like new. Each to order from website, part arrived in 3 days. I'll certainly order from partselect.com again.

I removed the old water inlet valve and replaced it with a new one. I had to cut the existing water lines with a razor to fit the new design of the new inlet valve. I also had to remove the inlet water valve and attach it to the new one. It was real easy once I reviewed the U tube video on how to replace the valve.

Insert lenses from left to right snap in

Remove the door on the icemaker. Remove a screw on the bottom right of the icemaker and remove the bracket. push two small tabs on the bottom to release icemaker and slide out. unclip plugs that are on the wire. To reinstall just do the reverse.

Got the main bolts off and unplugged and removed the ice maker. Had to remove all parts and rebuild it on the new mold. Was more complex than I thought but was able to get it done. Note where everything was as you take it off and you'll do fine.

I removed the top door hinge cover, removed the top hinge, pulled the refrigerator door off, layed it on the floor, removed the door cams, installed the new door cams, replaced the doo and top hinge and hinge cover. If you have this problem with your refrigerator door, be sure to replace the upper and lower cam.

Followed instructions- removed and replaced with new water inlet valve also replaced control bracket. Now no leaks and plenty of ice thanks to partselect, the right part, the right price and fast delivery . Thank you

removed the 3 screws from the receiver first, on hinge side with the flap The toughest part was twisting my arm around and upside down to plug the new board into the wire harness since it had very little slack and the wires were stiff from cold, the emitter on the opposite side was as easy, care needed to be taken with the upper screw partially hidden behind ice maker itself but it was an easy removal. Again, short wires and stiff from cold make alignment of the plug to the board just bit awkward to ensure it was seated properly. 15 mins later I heard the first emptying of the ice maker

Remove 3 screws on the emitter and 3 screws on the receiver. Removed the plugs and reinstalled the parts. Very simple and easy. Ice is flowing again.

Researched in "ehow" the procedure. Looked relatively simple so I ordered the part. When it arrived, emptied the frig, pulled it out, thawed out the auto ice maker with a hair dryer. I then examined the old part and compared it to the new part. They were close. Old part had a rivet attaching it to another bracket which had a primary valve that led to the filter cartridge housing. I had to drill out the rivet to seperate the mounting brackets. The electrical connectors were rear facing on the old unit and front facing on the new unit. Not a big problem, just concerned that the solenoid leads might be polarity specific. I called my brother who works on restaurant equipment and he said that as long as the long were the same color, polarity was not an issue. He was right. The second concern I had was that the plastic line from the primary input valve was a stiffer gray plastic line with a rib molded on the ended to secure a metal compression nut. I wondered again if that would cause a problem with the new pressure connector. It did not. Just cut off the rid and slide it in. Frig is working great, dispensing water and ice like it was new. Bought the frig for $1,000 13 years ago, now sells for $2,500. Save a ton of money by buying the part and doing it myself. Thanks.

Did exactly what the video showed . First I went through the test procedure to conferm my boards were bad . But ice maker didn't work after the control boards were replaced. I did some more research to find out what the problem now could be. I discovered where the water goes into the ice tray the line was frozen. Got the hair dryer out and melted the ice that had the water restricted. Been making ice every since. I tell everybody about (part select) web. Sight now