10650585000 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Turn off water supply too ice maker and unplug the fridge power. using a nut driver remove one bottom screw from the bottom, near the front. The other two from the side atop the ice mold. (loosen screws and ice maker will lift up and off.)
I set the ice maker on the counter, snapped of the front cover by hand. using a phillips driver, remove two screws near the bottom corners.(they go through the circuit board into the ice mold)
circuit board in one hand, other end of ice mold in the other, slowly pull apart about 1 inch. remove the silver colored "on, off" bar at the end by snapping the retainer out of the ice mold. (the silver bar stays with the circuit board end)
Watch how the ice guide(white fingers stationary on side of ice mold) hooks too the ice mold on each end. swap ice guide to new ice mold, insert three guide pins on end into holes on the circuit board, while holding ice guide onto ice mold, watch rotation bar while inserting into motor.(it only splines one way.) when each piece is lined up, simply push together and reinstall two screws. snap circuit board cover into place. reinstall ice maker into freezer in reverse order.

Ice Maker quit working. Seemed like a water supply issue but when I read the other reviews, I decided to install and see. bolted the bracket on with three screws, slid in place. Nothing happened and about 10 minutes later, I heard the water release to the ise maker and have been making ice ever since.

This company is WONDERFUL! I ordered the wrong drawer the first time, but their return process was a snap and the correct drawer arrived the next day. It's great to know that there is someone out there with just about every part you'll need for about any appliance that is truly customer friendly.

ridiculous how a tiny plastic broken part required a full motor assembly replacement. that being said, i went online, found this website and easily identified the part i needed to order. i was impressed when it arrived within a couple of days. removing the old motor and replacing the new was a piece of cake...and i am NOT mechanically inclined,

I called the local Amana repair man, wanted $150 for a new ice maker because they could not get the part I needed. Found Partsselect.com and the part cost $17 with shipping. They saved me over $100. The repair was very easy too, just removed a couple of screws.

Thanks,
Matt

watched video. Very easy

This is in a rental house; Refrigerator/freezer has been off for a few weeks so just opened the freezer door and used screwdriver to pry out one corner then pliers to grab and pull old gasket (seal) off. Had the new one laid out overnight to relax it; placed one corner on and then the opposite corner then repeated the other two corners. Positioned the keeper edge plastic all of the way around to place the gasket in the door. Closed the door to check the seal and plugged unit back in. Waited and then checked air temp with hand held IR temp gauge. All checked good, no cold spots anywhere. Piece of cake!

Resistance on solenoid for water to ice maker measured low (5 ohms). I assumed the coil insulation had degraded because there was almost a short with such low resistance. Replaced the water inlet valve kit and ice maker filled with water and everything worked great. I had to cut the ends of the hoses because my model use compression fittings and this new valve kit used the push on fittings. No leaks no problems. The cables plugged in the opposite direction from the old valve kit, so I had to re-route the cable a little and create slack by removing from 1 cable clamp.

This problem first accrued when the unit was under warranty and the repair person told me this would happen again. This technician told me how to troubleshoot the problem and sure enough the Compressor Start Relay was bad again. For starters I moved the refrigerator out from the wall and cabinets. I unplugged the wall cord from the receptacle. I removed the screws, with a ¼ inch spin-tight that held the backing in front of the compressor compartment. I disconnected the two wires then pulled the Start-Dev PS991485 out and it rattled, a good sign the relay was bad. I looked up the Part on the Web Site and ordered the replacement relay, I thought. When the package arrived I found all the parts for the entire Starting and over Temp Protection circuits along with a new plastic cover box. This was a very good experience and I saved maybe $250.00 in repair costs by doing it my self, along with the replacement instruction that came with the parts.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

Removed catch tray and then removed two screws that are underneath. I left the control panel hanging from its wires, then removed the two screws from the control bracket.
A word of caution before next step: You need to remove the two micro switches on the left and right. While trying to remove one, it split apart and the pieces fell out. I was able to put it back together and it worked fine. So be careful with the micro switches.
Continue tranferring wires and switches to the new bracket and reassemble in the opposite order.
An easy repair.

Removed 3 screws on the bottom of old ice maker in the fridge, slid out old ice maker, disconnected electrical cable,took out old ice maker. Take the plastic tray from bottom of old ice maker install on new ice maker, reconnect cable, slid in place, replace the three screws. About 3 hours later water ran in and new ice maker started to make ice. The only thing I missed was I didn't rinse out new ice maker before installation. If you don't rinse out new ice maker you have to throw away the first full bin of ice due to metallic taste.

Removed upper hinge cover and hinge, lifted door from lower hinge socket, removed lower cam from 'frig hinge, and replaced with new. I had a helper hold the 'frig door while I removed old upper cam, and replaced with new. Piece of cake and works like new! This must be a design problem..

A service man who came to the house for another job said it was common for one solenoid on the inlet valve to fail while the other still worked, which explained why it would refill the ice maker but not dispense water. It was easy enough to unscrew the old valve from the frig frame and unscrew the and the tubing. The valve is oriented a little differently, but there was still room for it and enough tubing to reach the connections. Seems to me colors for the new water/ice controls were not exactly the same, so I would make a note of them (by following the tubing) when you disconnect them. The newer style push-in connectors were easy to hook up once I trimmed the a half inch or so from the end that had been crimped by the older compression fittings. Once I started using the water again, the occassional small puddles of water under the freezer door hinge disappeared. I was told this can happen when you stop using the water, and the water remaining in the tube that runs up thru the freezer door can freeze and thaw, producing a sweat that runs down the tube and out the hinge.

First removed one screw from the bottom right bottom side of the unit. Removed the door from the front of the unit. Pushed up the locking tab on the left underside of the unit and pulled the unit partway out. Removed the plastic cover ( that was retained by the screw removed and disconnected the electrical connection) and finished removing the unit from the freezer. Removed the remaining three screws from the bottom of the unit and installed on the bottom of the new unit. I then slid the new unit partially in and connected the wiring harness and slid the rest of the way in guiding the water line into thepocket which was taller than the origional unit. Reinstalled the wire protective cover with one screw and the front cover back on the new unit. Done and is working great.