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WSM2780WCWWW
WSM2780WCWWW General Electric Washer Dryer Combo - Overview
Sections of the WSM2780WCWWW
[Viewing 6 of 6]
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DRYER LINT FILTER
PartSelect #: PS12741280
Manufacturer #: WE16X29397
This is the replacement lint filter for your dryer. The lint filter traps unwanted lint and debris so your dryer can effectively dry your clothes.
No Longer Available
Timer Knob - Dryer
PartSelect #: PS755794
Manufacturer #: WE01X10160
Used with washer/dryer combo machines. This knob takes a D-shaped shaft.
$74.44
In Stock
Rear Bearing
PartSelect #: PS267858
Manufacturer #: WE3X70
Bearing Only. This part helps your appliance run as quietly as possible.
No Longer Available
Drum Glide
PartSelect #: PS755802
Manufacturer #: WE03X10007
Sold individually. There are some dryers that require 2 per dryer. They attach to the outer-most sides of the bearing.
$71.28
In Stock
Hose Clamp Kit
PartSelect #: PS270806
Manufacturer #: WH1X2036
This is a water hose clamp kit for a variety of appliances including dishwashers and washers. This is a genuine replacement part. The kit includes two hose clamps. The smaller of the two is 1 inch in ...
$15.89
In Stock
Igniter
PartSelect #: PS268196
Manufacturer #: WE4X750
This igniter is used for gas dryers. This part ignites the gas within the dryer.
$44.36
In Stock
DRYER BEARING BRACKET
PartSelect #: PS12710145
Manufacturer #: WE13X28680
This bracket is used on the drum bearing.
$35.08
In Stock
Drain Pump
PartSelect #: PS3502779
Manufacturer #: WH23X10041
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for WSM2780WCWWW
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Annette
December 29, 2022
I know this model is discontinued but before I purchase a new one, I would like to know how many cubic feet was this model
For model number WSM2780WCWWW
Hi Annette,
Thank you for your question. The total capacity of the unit is 2.7 cubic feet. It measures 30.8125 inches deep by 75.5 inches high by 27 inches wide. If you have any questions, please let us know. We are open 7 days a week. We look forward to hearing from you!
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Common Symptoms of the WSM2780WCWWW
[Viewing 4 of 4]Noisy
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Leaking
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Will not agitate
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Will not drain
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Loud rhythmic squeaking
About a year ago I had to replace the front sliders. I had thought at the time that I should replace the belt and check the rear bearing, but I was in a hurry, and the wash was backing up, so I didn't do it. Oops. Within 6 months dryer started squeaking. Did I get around to pulling it out, and greasing rear bearing. Nope. Dbl oops.
... Read more
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Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.
Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.
So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.
Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)
Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.
Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.
Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.
Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.
OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...
Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
Luckily on this model, everything is pretty basic, strong, and well made. The rear bearing after 9 years of constant use (5 person family)had simply run out of grease, and then worn into the plastic housing that holds the rear bearing. NOTE TO ALL -- probably too late if you're reading this -- but just grease your rear bearing by using a grease gun with high temp grease (car bearing grease works fine)through the small hole at back of dryer dead center of drum. It will take 5 min, and probably prevent the need for this repair, or delay it substantially.
Unplug dryer, turn off gas, and disconnect gas hose and duct hose. Inspect the latter two and consider repacing while you're at it. Move dryer to where you can get at front and back without cursing too much.
So...take a putty knife, and put a little masking tape around the blade if you're worried about scratching the finish on your dryer. If you're doing this repair, your dryer is probably at least as old as mine, and you can skip the tape and just bear with some small scratches.
Slide the putty knife into the groove between lid and front of dryer and pop up. (held by spring clips)
Now tip up lid and slide back, you may have to wrestle it a bit, or it may come off like a charm. Put it out of the way.
Take a sec to look at the interior wiring (you unplugged the dryer, right?) If you see any worn or raw spots, take some electrical tape and fix. Should be fine though. Take a vacuum and suck up any extraneous lint, dirt etc.
Tip dryer up slightly and block with wood or a brick. There are two screws at bottom -- undo these. IF they're missing, no worries, they're not critical. Put dryer back down.
Get a trouble light or a good lamp and shine ti wher you can see interior of dryer. There are two screws, one on each side on the INSIDE of the dryer, connecting the side panels to the front. Undo those. Put them in a little baggie and mark them "interior fr screws." I know, you're thinking "I can just remember them." But trust me, this way, you can't lose them or screw up. Now use the putty knife to pop the front panel off the sides. Do this gently, and don't yank the front way back, as the drum will drop. Oh, on mine there was a yellow plastic doohicky in the middle at top. Take that off too (one tiny screw) put the screw back in part way and stick the doohicky in the baggie.
OK, so the front panel should now be loose. It is still on a couple of little tabs at the bottom, which you prefer not to bend. So lift the front slightly and then back it out, while you (or preferably a helper) holds the drum so you can let it down gently. The front is attached to all sorts of wiring. You don't need to disconnect ANYTHING. THe front should be able to be moved away to the right like a door. Rest this up against something so as to not strain the wiring. On the front of the door are the felt and plastic sliders. If they look beat up or worn, replace them now -- or like me, you can do the job twice... That part is super simple...
Now, got back of dryer, there is a vent at back bottom. Remove three (or less) screws) and remove little door. Probably substantial lint here. Vacuum like crazy. The belt comes down around the drive pulley, and then up and over the idler pulley (to keep tension on belt. IF this feels loose/easy to move, replace the belt. In fact, if the belt is over 5 years old, replace the belt. (or when it breaks, you get to open everything again). Just unhook the spring and the idler will be loose and you can remove the belt off the pulleys -- it's now just around the drum. Slide the idler pulley off the stem
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Parts Used:
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Mark from San Diego, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
44 of 53 people
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Washer would not drain
Removed 2 Hose clamps with pliers. Unplug power source from drain pump. Unscrew 2 mounting screws with 5/16" nut-driver then replace unit in reverse sequence...... Very simple.
Parts Used:
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Jack from Canyon Lake, TX
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers
25 of 39 people
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filter had a hole
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Patricia from chicago, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
14 of 16 people
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