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FWTR425RHS0
FWTR425RHS0 Frigidaire Washer - Overview
Sections of the FWTR425RHS0
[Viewing 4 of 4]
Manuals & Care Guides for FWTR425RHS0
Click to downloadKeep searches simple, eg. "belt" or "pump".
Shock Absorber Kit
PartSelect #: PS3508101
Manufacturer #: 5304485917
This shock absorber kit is an authentic OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The kit includes two dual-stage shock absorbers, one spare shock mounting pin, and four locking nuts. T...
$39.67
In Stock
Drain Pump - 60Hz 120V
PartSelect #: PS2342445
Manufacturer #: 137108000
This pump helps expel water from the washing machine and is activated after the spin speed is maintained for a specific period of time.
$163.31
In Stock
Single Spring with Insulators
PartSelect #: PS735645
Manufacturer #: 134144700
This is a single spring with insulator, but you may also know it as a suspension spring. It is a part for your washing machine. If your tub is no longer stable, which would cause shaking, moving, and ...
$47.69
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS417463
Manufacturer #: 131302800
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
$11.21
In Stock
Drive Belt - 6 ribs
PartSelect #: PS419285
Manufacturer #: 134051000
This is a drive belt for your washing machine. This part spins the basket in your appliance by connecting the drive motor to the drive system. You will need to replace the drive belt if your pumps are...
$13.31
In Stock
Drum Vane
PartSelect #: PS417359
Manufacturer #: 131274600
Also known as a Drum Baffle. Sold individually.
$52.75
In Stock
Bellow with Clamp
PartSelect #: PS900237
Manufacturer #: 5303937187
Also known as the door boot seal. This part is used to keep the clothes inside the tub during the wash cycle. The folds in the bellow allow the tub to move separately from the door during the spin cycle.
$140.36
In Stock
O-Ring/Gasket
PartSelect #: PS724852
Manufacturer #: 134146100
This part is between the front and rear outer tubs.
$57.57
In Stock
Rear Outer Tub Assembly
PartSelect #: PS418071
Manufacturer #: 131525500
The seal and bearing are included and are not sold separately.
No Longer Available
Questions And Answers for FWTR425RHS0
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Common Symptoms of the FWTR425RHS0
[Viewing 9 of 9]Leaking
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Will not drain
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Will not agitate
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Spins slowly
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Shaking and Moving
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Marks left on clothes
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Noisy
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Burning smell
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Not draining
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Both vibration shock absorbers broken
removed 2 screws and removed top access cover. removed 2 screws and removed front access cover. removed 4 retaining pins (one with nammer and punch because it was stuck) connected lower ends of new shocks with plastic pins, extended each shock to slip fit and connected upper ends to wash tub mounts. Reinstalled panels. I wish I could sa
... Read more
y that it all went well from there but......when the shocks broke, apparently the hit the motor took was enough to cause an electronic failure of the speed cycle control chip. Now Im waiting for that part.
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Parts Used:
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Douglas from Medical Lake, WA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Drum making loud noise
Turned out drum brackets were corroded, so drum and shell-rear/brg and gasket needed replacing
1. Disconnect power and water lines
2. Remove rear and top panels
3. Remove control knobs, Assembly, soap dispenser, and Assembly cons frame/trim
4. Remove all screws from control panel mounting bracket (panel-cont ... Read more mtg wing bend), disconnect easy wires to get to so you can flip it on it's edge when the time comes - no need to remove completely
5. Disconnect hoses running to shell-rear/brg
6. Remove the motor (motor-Sole) and belt
7. Place foam pad and/or jack with pad on it underneath shell (it's gonna be very heavy when you remove it - two men or a jack required)
8. Lift and remove the two spring/sleeves that support the shell.
9. Remove two level-shocks below shell or at a minimum remove one of the pins on each
10. Remove Spring boot from bellow
11. Lower and remove entire shell
12. Remove the weight, upper back from the rear shell and the counterweights from the front shell (can leave front weights if you want to, but probably easier to work with without them on. Note: be careful, these all crack/chip very easily)
13. Remove the screws that hold the rear shell to the front shell
14. Remove the pulley screw and pulley (may take a little wiggling or tapping with rubber mallet to loosen)
15. Separate the rear shell from front shell.
16. Remove the drum from the rear shell (may also require some wiggkling/tapping with rubber mallet)
Note: I did this from memory, so probably missed some steps - just use your parts manual to ensure you know what you're looking at and it will help you through the process.
Good luck. I figure I saved about $700 to $1200 since the estimated repair costs were so high, I would have simply had to buy a new washer.
1. Disconnect power and water lines
2. Remove rear and top panels
3. Remove control knobs, Assembly, soap dispenser, and Assembly cons frame/trim
4. Remove all screws from control panel mounting bracket (panel-cont ... Read more mtg wing bend), disconnect easy wires to get to so you can flip it on it's edge when the time comes - no need to remove completely
5. Disconnect hoses running to shell-rear/brg
6. Remove the motor (motor-Sole) and belt
7. Place foam pad and/or jack with pad on it underneath shell (it's gonna be very heavy when you remove it - two men or a jack required)
8. Lift and remove the two spring/sleeves that support the shell.
9. Remove two level-shocks below shell or at a minimum remove one of the pins on each
10. Remove Spring boot from bellow
11. Lower and remove entire shell
12. Remove the weight, upper back from the rear shell and the counterweights from the front shell (can leave front weights if you want to, but probably easier to work with without them on. Note: be careful, these all crack/chip very easily)
13. Remove the screws that hold the rear shell to the front shell
14. Remove the pulley screw and pulley (may take a little wiggling or tapping with rubber mallet to loosen)
15. Separate the rear shell from front shell.
16. Remove the drum from the rear shell (may also require some wiggkling/tapping with rubber mallet)
Note: I did this from memory, so probably missed some steps - just use your parts manual to ensure you know what you're looking at and it will help you through the process.
Good luck. I figure I saved about $700 to $1200 since the estimated repair costs were so high, I would have simply had to buy a new washer.
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Parts Used:
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Scott from Riverview, FL
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Difficulty Level:Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
120 of 145 people
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drain pump motor had seized as result of foreign objects
After turning off water, disconnecting power, and sucking water out of the tub and drain hose with a shop vac, I removed the front kick panel (took out two sheet metal screws). Then I removed two mounting screws from the pump assembly, and disconnected two hose clamps (inlet and outlet hoses) with a pair of pliers. Very simple, very easy
... Read more
. The pain in the fanny came when I tried to reattach the hoses. The hose clamps apparently require either a special tool or a technique I'm not familiar with. I finally tossed them and purchased two standard screw and band hose clamps which made the final connections a breeze. The surprise came when I found that the motor had seized because of a pair of tweezers that had somehow worked into the motor impeller. Free of tweezers and coins, the new motor works great! To quote another one of your contributors: wife happy!
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Parts Used:
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Charles from Raleigh, NC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set
107 of 111 people
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