This dryer drum belt (Whirlpool Dryer Belt, Drive Belt) has four ridges, three grooves and is 1/4" wide, and 92 1/4 inches in length. It comes in black and is made of rubber. The belt transfers the ro...
This blower wheel clamp, used in a clothes dryer, is a clamp that holds the blower wheel to the motor shaft. This part helps hold the blower wheel in place to function easily and properly. If your clo...
The rear dryer drum roller functions by holding the drum in place while the drum rotates on support wheels during the drying spin/tumble cycle. Included in this rear drum support roller kit are four s...
This high limit/safety thermostat is used on many gas and electric clothes dryers. It is made of metal, and is almost two inches long. With this thermostat, a dryer's heating element will cut out if t...
This part is the replacement thermal fuse for your dryer. It measures a little more than an inch wide, and about ¾ inch long. The thermal fuse is a safety device that shuts off the burner in a gas dry...
1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher 2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer 3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges) 4. Disconnected dryer door wiring 5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall
... Read morewhen it loses support) 6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance 7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler) 8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler 9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first) 10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed 11. Replaced parts in reverse order The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)
Started out taking the back off, then found online that access is from the front and much easier to get to. Simply pop the hinges in the back of the top panel and then the front of the top is popped off. From there, it is easy to remove the old belt, clean the innards (found 31 cents) and replace the new belt. It was a little disconcer
... Read moreting to see the idler pulley laying loose inside, but the diagram showed exactly how to put it back in place, with the new belt keeping it in place.
I opened the dryer from the front by pushing in on the two clips just under the top. I then had to remove two screws on each side and took the front panel off. I reached around underneath on the right side to slip the belt off the pulley. I pulled the drum out and then I could see the roller that was squeaking (the left one). The whee
... Read morel had sheared some of the support off and that was the cause of the squeak.
I took the locking ring off and removed the wheel and support. I put the new support in, attached it, and then the wheel, washer and lock ring. I used pliers to push the lock ring onto the support.
Then I put the drum back in making sure it was in all the way (it fits snugly between the wheel and the back of the dryer). The belt is a little tricky to get back on. I put it around the drum and then reached underneath and behind again. The pulley is on a spring, so you have to pull it up and put the belt on all one-handed and blind. Once that was on, I gave it a few turns to make sure everything was working again.