Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing reviews that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Shawn B - August 21, 2021
Verified Purchase
Was close but different
Got this to replace mine since it burned a hole thru the side of it, but it's slightly different the mounting bracket for the ignitor on mine comes up from the bottom and this one from the top.
Serial numbers matched for the oven but they must have changed it.. I'll have to get a new ignitor for this one to work...other than that it fit well
★★★★★
★★★★★
Jesse R - February 5, 2019
Verified Purchase
Simple fix but get the right parts.
This part fit as advertised but be aware that if you are installing this in an older oven that the igniter that you have may not fit this burner tube. I suggest replacing both at the same time so that you have the correct parts.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Enita W - January 30, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy to replace in a short about of time.
The part was in good condition.
< Prev
1
Next >
Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.2 / 5.0, 4 reviews.
What's this?
Sort by:
< Prev
1
Next >
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing installation instruction that matched.
Burner was bad and gas pressure valve stuck open.
Shut off gas, bled excess and simply removed old defective parts and replaced with new exact replacement parts. Made final air adjustments after first checking for gas leaks. No problems at all. A good rainy day job!
I had to pull the drawer to get to the burner, then remove the heat shield to get to the connections. I took out the screw at the end of the burner tube, then the two screws holding the tube to the back wall. I had to pull the connections through the back wall of the oven, and disconnect them. I then removed the two screws holding the
... Read moreigniter to the old tube, and used them to connect the new igniter to the new tube. At that time, I also had to cut the old connections off of the old ignighter, and put them on the new one. I also had to redo the connection to the gas valve at the bottom of the tube. I then put all the wire and connections back through the hole in the back of the oven, connect the tube back to the rear of the oven, and the single screw to hold the end of the tube. I replaced the the heat shield, and tested. Everything worked fine.
Read less
D.W. from Jasper, AL
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
30 - 60 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver, Screw drivers
26 of 29 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Oven was popping house breaker on ignition.
Removed oven racks, oven floor tray and shield to access burner. Initially began to replace only electric igniter (just two screws) and burner break valve but noticed burner tube was corroded and had large hole near igniter. Ordered a new burner pipe. Hardest part of this repair was the burner valve. It has a compression fitting to the al
... Read moreuminum supply tube that needs to be seated well without bending the tube. The electrical connectors (2) have plastic shields on them that are somewhat brittle, perhaps because the oven is about ten years old. Had to be very gentle with them when swapping them from old valve to new so as not to crack the plastic. The real trick was figuring out that the valve break needed to be adjusted for LP supply. It shipped configured for natural gas. Upon initial install the flame level in the oven was much to high. After asking around I discovered that the brass nozzle needs to be tightened down clockwise with a wrench until flush with the base in order to set it for LP.