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Round Style Oven Igniter

★★★★★
★★★★★
47 Reviews
$ 103.50   In Stock

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PartSelect Number PS243425
Manufacturer Part Number WB2X9154
Manufactured by GE
Product Description

Round Style Oven Igniter Specifications

The round style oven igniter is also known as an oven bake or broil igniter and is compatible with your range appliance. The function of the round style oven igniter is to pull electrical current through the oven safety valve to open it. If your igniter is glowing for more than ninety seconds but it has not ignited the gas flame, that means that the igniter is not powerful enough to open the valve. Be very careful when handling this igniter as it is very fragile. This igniter has a range of 2.5 to 3.0 amps. Note that this round igniter will not replace flat style igniters.

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Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Will Not Start | Little to no heat when baking | Gas igniter glows | but will not light
This part works with the following products:
Range, Wall Oven.
This part works with the following products:
General Electric, Kenmore, Hotpoint, Roper.
Part# WB2X9154 replaces these:
AP2014008, 1990, WB2X9154, 300259, 319887, 327617, 330689, 337263, 4336387, 4338008, WB00X6640, WB02X9154, WB13K0001, WB13K0003, WB13K0004, WB13K1, WB13K10027, WB13K3, WB13K4
Questions and Answers

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35 questions answered by our experts.
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Lee
January 7, 2018
Broiler works, top burners work. Bake does not at all. Any solutions? Thanks! (checked gas valve....it was closed. I opened it and still no bake). perhaps a new igniter or something else?
For model number jgbp2bwel4ww
Hi Lee, Thank you for the question. I suggest replacing the Oven Igniter. If the igniter is not giving off enough volts the valve will not open to allow gas through. Hope this helps!

33 people found this helpful.

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Daniel
August 12, 2017
My oven will not even try and do anything. The stove top works just fine and the timer and all the other buttons on the back splash work just fine. It's just that the oven will not heat up. There is no gas smell and it doesn't click like the igniter is trying to start it. Please help!?
For model number JGBP33BEH5BB
Hi Daniel, Thank you for your inquiry. It sounds like you are going to want to check the bake and broil igniters and the temperature sensor in your appliance. Test all three parts with a multi-meter to see if they are working correctly. Good luck with your repair.

11 people found this helpful.

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Brenda
January 10, 2018
I purchased the round oven igniter and it still won't light, what next?
For model number JGBP24BEA2WH
Hello Brenda, Thank you for your inquiry. We would recommend checking the following parts to fix your issue: pressure regulator, dual oven safety valve, sensor assembly, and check the wiring to the ignitor. Hope this helps!

9 people found this helpful.

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ENOLA
November 11, 2017
My burners work and the broiler works. However, when i turn on the oven to bake and set the temperature to 350, the oven than goes to 100 instead. It does not heat up. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
For model number JGBP79AEV1AA
Hi Enola, Thank you for your inquiry. If your broiler element is not working and the oven is not heating evenly then There are some parts that you will need to check to see which one is causing the issue. You will need to check the oven sensor, the round style oven igniter and both the bake and broil elements. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

8 people found this helpful.

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Duke
January 17, 2019
The top burners work but the oven and broiler does not,,what part would i need to fix it
For model number RGB526ET1AD
Hi Duke, Thank you for your question. If the surface burners are working, but not the oven, the issue is the igniter and it will need to be replaced. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

6 people found this helpful.

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Roberta
November 21, 2018
The broiler and the burners ignite but the oven will not heat? I believe i need to replace the ignitor, correct?
For model number JGBP28BEA2AD
Hi Roberta, thank you for your question. There are a few parts that could cause this issue in your appliance. First I would say test your igniters with a multi meter to see if they are working correctly or not. They should be reading between 0 - 1100 ohms to be working correctly. The other part you should check would be your oven temperature sensor. That can also be tested with a multi meter and should be reading between 1000 - 1100 ohms. If those three parts are fine however, then the issue may be in your control board. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

4 people found this helpful.

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Wes
September 11, 2017
Hi, this is Wes again, regarding the wall oven with the pilot light situation. I've sent the model number to see if that helps, once again it doesn't light and I'm not sure if it's the igniter or not, but it will not even light. Can't even light the pilot light, thanks
For model number JGRC14GEP1BG
Hi Wes, Thank you for the question. If you can smell gas but it is not lighting I suggest replacing the igniter. Hope this helps!

3 people found this helpful.

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Ken
March 26, 2020
No ignition on lower (bake) part. Broiler works fine. No glow on bake ignitor
For model number JGRP20BEJ1BB
Hi Ken, Thank you for your question. If the igniter is not glowing, you will need to replace the round style oven igniter. The part number listed under your model number for the igniter is PS243425. To place an order for the part you may order it either online, by visiting our live chat sessions, Monday to Friday from 8AM to 4PM EST, or by calling our customer service line at 1-888-738-4871 and anyone will be happy to assist you. We hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day.

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Related Parts:
Michael
January 21, 2019
From time to time we get a gas smell prior to ignition. Otherwise everything works fine after that
For model number 790.78902003
Hello Michael, thank you for your question. Check the burner tubes for any debris in the tube or the holes where the gas comes out of. Sometimes if the holes are covered with grease or food debris the tube cannot bring gas out in the right flow which causes a buildup of gas before it lights. If it takes a bit more time to light and you get the smell of gas that usually means the igniter is not functioning each time properly. We would recommend replacing the oven igniter to fix this issue. The bake igniter is IGNITOR Part Number: PS2581803 and the broil igniter is IGNITOR Part Number: PS2581802. Good luck with your repair!

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Randall
February 10, 2020
My issue is the oven will not hear at all, and there is no glow on the element. I am thinking the glow igniter is burnt out. Do you think this part is the correct one needed to fix the problem?
For model number JGBP79AEW1AA
Hi Randall, thank you for your question. There are a few parts that could cause this issue in your appliance. First I would say test your igniters with a multi meter to see if they are working correctly or not. They should be reading between 0 - 1100 ohms to be working correctly. The other part you should check would be your oven temperature sensor. That can also be tested with a multi meter and should be reading between 1000 - 1100 ohms. If those three parts are fine however, then the issue may be in your control board or the spark module. Good luck with your repair.

1 person found this helpful.

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Customer Repair Stories
 Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 163 reviews. What's this?
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No ignition
Unplug the oven.
Open the oven door.
Remove the racks.
Remove the two screws that hold the oven floor; they are located toward the back.
Remove the oven floor pan.
Remove the screw holding the heat shield/dispenser.
Remove the heat shield/dispenser.
Untwist the ceramic wire caps on the two igniter wires.
Remove the two screws holding the igniter.
Remove the igniter.
Replace the igniter working all the steps backwards.
It’s super simple.
  • Mark from Upland, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WB2X9154
741 of 799 people found this instruction helpful.
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broiler works, bake oven does not work.
Your website help me troubleshoot the problem and locate the part. Part was delivered the next day. Following the instructions that others on your website had provided, the repair was quick and SUCCESSFUL.
Gas will not flow if the igniter is bad. Gas will only flow if the igniter heats up the internal bimetal strip which in turn, allows gas to flow through the safety valve
First, unplug the power sourse. For this repair it is not necessary to shut off the gas, but do so if it makes you more comfortable. Remove the oven door...it lifts right off. Next, remove the screws and lift out the bottom panel in the oven box. This will expose the igniter. Next, remove the lower drawer. Two 1/4-28 screws retain the igniter...remove these. With the drawer removed, go underneath and locate the 2 wires to the igniter. One has a green connector, and the other has a red connector. Disconnect these 2 wires and carefully remove the igniter and wires. Cut the wires from the igniter on the igniter end. You will need to reuse the plug end of each wire, so don't cut them too short. Splice these two wires to the new igniter with the wire splice caps provided. Feed the wires back down throught the opening at the back of the oven and carefully move the igniter into place. Install the two 1/4-28 retaining screws. Go back underneath the oven through the drawer opening and plug in the 2 wires. You should be good to go. Reassemble the oven and have mama bake a cake..
  • Robert from Hebron, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • Parts Used:
    WB2X9154
591 of 770 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven igniter failed to heat up and ignite the gas burner.
Before starting it's a good idea to disconnect the electricity and turn the gas valve off behind the stove.

Next, uncrew the two finger-screws at the back of the oven that hold the porcelain & steel drip plate in. It comes out if you push it towards the back of the oven and lift it out. This reveals the burner and the cylindrical igniter attached to the side of the burner. While I was there I unscrewed the one screw at the front end of the burner (nearest me).

After attempting the repair from inside the oven, I realized it was far easier to pull out the bottom drawer and work from under the oven instead. Using only one size mini-socket for all screws it was easy. I undid the two screws that hold the main burner to the back of the oven. This allowed me to pull the burner up inside the oven so I could access the screws that held the igniter to the side of the burner. A flashlight helps when working under the oven.

Under the oven again I then pulled the two wires off their respective connectors. Then inside the oven unscrewed the two screws holding the igniter to the burner. The old part came off very easily. However, the new part didn't have connectors attached, so I had to remember which wire went where and cut the old connectors off and splice them to the new. Be sure to leave yourself as much of the old wire as possible attached to the connector. Otherswise you might find the "new" wires too short to reach the connectors.

I reconnected the igniter to the main burner with the two screws. Then fed the burner and wires back into place. I then lightly screwed the single front screw on the burner (inside the oven) to help position the burner, then went underneath to install the other two screws.

Under the oven I made sure the wires fit onto their connectors then tightened the two screws to hold the burner to the back wall. Once the burner was properly in place I tightened the two screws and the single one inside the oven.

I then plugged the oven back in and turned on the gas flow. I turned the oven dial and watched the new igniter glow wonderfully.

Finally I replaced the porcelain floor cover inside the oven. These finger screws can be a bit tricky because they go into a threaded clip that might have moved while you worked. The whole task took less than 30 minutes - and I had never done this before.
  • Paul from Santa Rosa, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
  • Parts Used:
    WB2X9154
346 of 502 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven would no longer light, main gas valve would not open, no glow from igniter
The repair was fairly straight forward.

Step 1: Remove the storage drawer from below the oven and disconnect A/C power.
Step 2: Using nutdriver, remove the 2 machine screws in the front and 2 on the sides that hold the silver cover plate under the oven.
Step 3: Disconnect the 2 wires going to the igniter and remove the 2 bolts holding the igniter to the burner assembly.
Step 4: After removing the defective igniter, cut the connectors off the old igniter.
Step 5: Strip the wire on the connectors back the appropriate length and connect them to the new igniter with the supplied ceramic wire nuts.
Step 6: Reinstall new igniter into the buner assembly and reconnect wires.
Step 7: Before reinstalling the cover plate, plug A/C power back in and test that the igniter glows orange and the main gas valve opens.
Step 8: Assuming your test light worked, reinstall cover plate using 4 screws and put the storage drawer back in place.
  • Jeffrey from Crystal Lake, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
  • Parts Used:
    WB2X9154
237 of 383 people found this instruction helpful.
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The oven didn't heat up, only broiler.
The 2 bolts that attach to the burner were at a difficult angle to get at, other than that it was relatively easy.
  • Lynn from Hebron, CT
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
  • Parts Used:
    WB2X9154
145 of 154 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven burner would not light because igniter would not start
I had to pull the strorage drawer under the stove out to get at the electric connection for the ignitor. Then I removed the plate that coveres the burner and ignitor, and used a nut driver to remove the ignitor screws. I had to cut off the quick wire connectors from the old ignitor because the new one is just bare wires. FYI this is how the ignitor comes from every place I looked at, not just part select.com. After using the provided wire nuts to connect the new ignitor wires to the old ignitor wires that still had the quick connectors attached I screwed the ignitor back on. Put the covers on and done. It probably took about 30 minutes and saved me a bunch of money instead of having to call someone to repair something this easy.
  • Scott from Hudson, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
  • Parts Used:
    WB2X9154
45 of 46 people found this instruction helpful.
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"bake" would not ignite, "broil" would
I pulled out the bottom drawer, took out the interior bottom panel, and disconnected the ignitor. This repair is pretty straight forward. The only note I would make is that the ignitor did not have plugs on the end of the wires you have to splice the new ignitor in. If there are plugs available to purchase for your model, you may want to pick them up instead of splicing.
  • John from Butler, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
  • Parts Used:
    WB2X9154
38 of 41 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven burner wouldn't light
Never having tried to repair an oven before, I was a little nervous about attempting this myself. First I had to determine why the oven burners would not light, and by observing the way the broiler burner system worked, I could quickly tell that the problem was the igniter. After reading the repair stories here, I convinced myself that I too could fix this without calling a repair tech, and I ordered the part I needed.

A couple of days later the part arrived and I began the repair. First I emptied the oven of the racks and removed the door. (I learned how to do that here. I would never have guessed that all you need to do is lift it up.) Next I removed the bottom drawer and then the oven floor. That panel is held in place by two machine screws at the back and is inserted in a lip across the front. (All the screws to be removed in this whole job were 1/4-inch hex head.)

Now I had access to the igniter in the oven and to its wiring below. The igniter is attached to the oven burner with two screws. It is almost impossible to get to those screws with the burner mounted, so next I dismounted it. It is attached by a single screw at the front and by two screws underneath and attached to the back wall. With those screws removed, the whole assembly comes free and is only connected to the oven by the two wires from the igniter. Leave those attached.

I removed the two screws attaching the old igniter to the burner and replaced the igniter with the new one. The new igniter must be spliced into the wires from the old igniter. I cut one wire close to the body of the old igniter, stripped the end and used the supplied wire nut to attach the same wire from the new igniter to it. Then I did the same for the other wire. Doing it one at a time like that helps make sure the wiring doesn't get crossed since there is no visual difference between the two wires.

With the new igniter now in place, I reinstalled the burner assembly into the oven, attaching the two screws in the back and the one in front, and making sure all the excess wire from the igniter was out of the oven space itself to avoid problems from heat. Then I tested the system by turning on the oven. In a couple of seconds the igniter glowed like it should and the burner lit. Yay!

Then it was just put everything back together by putting the floor in (slide front under lip, attach screws in back), replacing the drawer and then the door and finally the racks. It actually takes longer to describe what I did than it did to do it. Elapsed time for a complete novice was about 15 minutes.
  • Jeffrey from Sarasota, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
  • Parts Used:
    WB2X9154
28 of 28 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven would not heat
I pulled the range out from the wall so that I could unplug the power card. (I eventually discovered that I didn't need to pull it out from the wall--there is a separate plug under the stove, behind the bottom drawer, that I could have simply unplugged instead.)

I removed the bottom drawer of the range then removed the racks and bottom tray from the oven. I then removed the baffle above the oven burner by removing two screws. At this point I could see the igniter. I removed the two screws that attach the igniter mounting bracket to the back of the oven. I removed one screw that attaches the igniter to the mounting bracket. At this point I pulled the igniter out several inches and cut the wires where they were attached with ceramic wire nuts.

I stripped about 1/2 inch insulation from the wires coming through the back of the oven and used the new ceramic wire nuts to attach the new igniter. I then reversed the above steps to complete the repair. I had read someone else's repair report and took their advice to lift out the burner pipe to get more working room during disassembly and reassembly.

The unnecessary steps that I took were: (1) Pulling the stove from the wall. (I could have unplugged it from another plug at the bottom of the stove.) (2) I took the cover off the electronics box-- two screws--underneath the stove because I thought I needed to get access to the wires, but that was not necessary.

The parts list claims that the oven igniter is very fragile. I disassembled the old one (and I mean I really took it apart!) and I found that it was quite rugged mechanically. The failure appeared to have been an internal connection from the wires to the heating element. I don't think it is very fragile to handle.
  • Joseph from Santa Monica, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers
  • Parts Used:
    WB2X9154
28 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
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bottom burner would not ignite
I followed the instructions I came across on this website (i.e., First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires). Removing the screws was difficult until I went to reinstall the igniter and relized you can pull the burner out all the way and quickly install the screws.
  • darren from rocklin, CA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
  • Parts Used:
    WB2X9154
28 of 31 people found this instruction helpful.
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Customer Reviews
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★★★★★
★★★★★
47 Reviews
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Model Cross Reference
This part works with the following models:
PartSelect Number: PS243425
Manufacturer Part Number: WB2X9154
Brand
Model Number
Description
Kenmore
1033247810
Range
Kenmore
1033247812
Range
Kenmore
1033247891
Range
Kenmore
1033248210
Range
Kenmore
1033248290
Range
Kenmore
1033248291
Range
Kenmore
1033658710
Range
Kenmore
1037258510
Range
Kenmore
1037267810
Range
Kenmore
1037278510
Range
Kenmore
1037287610
Range
Kenmore
1037287710
Range
Kenmore
1037287711
Range
Kenmore
1037287712
Range
Kenmore
1037287810
Range
Kenmore
1037287811
Range
Kenmore
1037297810
Range
Kenmore
1037297811
Range
Kenmore
1037297812
Range
Kenmore
1037358210
Range
Kenmore
1037387810
Range
Kenmore
1037857710
Range
Kenmore
1037857711
Range
Kenmore
1037857810
Range
Kenmore
1037857811
Range
Kenmore
1037858012
Range
Kenmore
1037867710
Range
Kenmore
1037867810
Range
Kenmore
1037897810
Range
Kenmore
1037897811
Range

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