First remove the bottom front access door. The helix drive nut and pulley were both chewed up. I pushed the pulley up into the brake assembly to make sure it released properly. Mine released and the drum spun freely (I had my 8 yr old assistant turn the drum first). The helix nut turned with the drum so I assumed the transmission was good to go. Once my drive nut and pulley came in (two days), [UNPLUG WASHER AND DISCONNECT WATER] I took the top front cover off and lifted the top up and back on it's hinges. Next I disconnected the motor wiring harness, the bleach tube, the fill hose, the six drum springs, and the drain hose from the pump. Pulled the drum out of the shell and flipped it upside down. I took off the helix drive nut and removed the 8 bolts that hold the "milk stool and bearing assembly" and motor to the drum, also 2 screws that go into the plastic reservoir. I raised the milk stool enough to get the pulley out. (Belt was good) Put in new pulley and pushed the milk stool back down. (I was careful to keep the bearing on the shaft splines). Put the belt back on the pulley and idler. Put in all the bolts and put back together in reverse order. I recommend starting with the back drum springs, that's how I did it and it was easy. About an hour. Good luck.

Unfortuantly this did not repair the machine. I beleive the transmission is gone and at this point it would be costly in time and money to repair. I went out over the weekend and purchased another Maytag (I just love this brand). It was on sale and I am also getting a rebate back from BGE for purchasing and energy star appliance. They will deliver this Saturday. I have spent some quality time with my sister doing my laundry at her house.

I used a small screw driver to remove the teeth from the motor pully and fit the puller on the pulley with a small socket protecting the end of the shaft. it came off easily with a few turns on the puller. I placed the new motor pulley on the shaft and tapped it into place with a small dead-blow mallet (a hammer with a hollow, heavy, plastic head filled with sand). Unfortunately, the spin /transmission shaft pulley was an incorrect part for the application and the motor turned out to have some internal heat damage. I was not able to apply this part because it was the wrong application but if it is you are in luck. The clip removal is the same and install this pulley flat side down and reassemble. If not, read on. I removed the motor by removing the front panel, removing the three bolts securing the motor to the plate, and disconnecting the wiring plugs and ground wire. I lucked out finding a spin pulley and motor rebuild kit locally. After rebuilding the motor with the new bushings, brushes, etc. from the kit, I reinstalled it by reversing the removal steps. I then removed the spin/trans pulley by removing a plastic grease cup/cover from the end shaft and removed the C-clip and washer holding the pulley in place with a small screw driver. I was careful not to let the pulley and washer/thrust washer stack on top of it fall off so I could be sure of the order in which they should be reinstalled. I applied fresh grease and reversed the disassembly proceedure making sure to drive the C-clip fully into the slot on the shaft with a large flat-tip screwdriver and the mallet. I cleaned, regreased, and reinstalled the grease cup/cover back into place firmly making sure it snapped into place. I slipped the belt back on the pulleys and reinstalled the front panel with the two screws at the top inside corners. The job was done.