This is a bimetal defrost thermostat for your refrigerator. It stops the fridge from overheating during the defrost cycle by protecting the evaporator. This clip-on thermostat will sense the temperature increase in the evaporator during the defrost process, and will cycle the defrost heater off after the ice or frost is melted. The most common reasons for needing to replace this part are if your unit is leaking, has inconsistent temperatures (too hot or too cold), you are seeing buildup of ice, or your appliance is running too long.
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Replacing your Whirlpool Refrigerator Bimetal Defrost Thermostat
Troubleshooting
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Leaking | Freezer not defrosting | Fridge too warm | Freezer section too warm
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing reviews that matched. Try using some different or simpler keywords.
★★★★★
★★★★★
James C - March 3, 2022
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
Fixed my refrigerator for under 100 bucks
★★★★★
★★★★★
Lynn P - February 12, 2022
Verified Purchase
Bi-metal thermostat
The only problem I had was with the shipping. It took longer than I expected. The part was correct and the repair was simple.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Adrienne H - July 22, 2021
Verified Purchase
Great part: Worked just how I expected it
The part was exactly what I needed but did not arrive as early as expected.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Michael R D - August 8, 2020
Verified Purchase
Easy repair
Fast shipping and the correct part fixed our fridge
★★★★★
★★★★★
Betty D - June 4, 2020
Verified Purchase
Easy repair.
The pilot was not strong enough to light the oven so we couldn't do anymore baking. This part (ignitor) fixed our stove and saved us from having to buy another stove. That was great!!
★★★★★
★★★★★
Patrick C - April 30, 2020
Verified Purchase
part came quickly easy install
this was the easier repair i could have imagined
★★★★★
★★★★★
Geralyn J - March 11, 2020
Verified Purchase
Easy repair.
Everything is working. Followed a YouTube to install.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Wiley R - May 30, 2019
Verified Purchase
Replace part
The part was easy to replace and is working well. Thank you W.R.
★★★★★
★★★★★
April T - March 7, 2019
Verified Purchase
Very simple repair
The part came in a timely manner and worked perfectly.
★★★★★
★★★★★
Chad B - February 7, 2019
Verified Purchase
Easy Fix
Part fixed the problem. Repair was easy. Instructional video was clear, accurate, and easy to follow. Would have given this 5 stars except that the shipping sucked.
These folks shipped my part with FedEx. FedEx then proceeds to take a few days to transport the part to within 75 miles of my home. Then, of all idiocy, FedEx drops the part into the USPS, who delivers it to my regular mail box. Whose nutty idea is this? Stupidest and most inefficient idea I've ever seen. If the part had just been put in the regular mail to begin with, I could have had it about 3 days quicker.
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Customer Repair Stories
Average Repair Rating: 3.5 / 5.0, 24 reviews.
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The frig was running too long. the frig was warm the freezer cold
Check for Video if any, watch 2X. The parts may look different (but not this time) Unplug.Defrost timer-dropped the control panel in the frig. the defrost timer sits right in the middle switch it out.Turn the timer to be set on the on cycle. Wasn't sure if the Bimetal thermostat was bad too so for a little over $20. I changed that too.-
... Read morein the freezer- remove the metal panel and fan cover. its clipped on to the element tubing on the right. cut the wire. Splice the wire to connect the new one then cover with wire nuts. replace cover, plug in. use frig thermometer to verify temperature.
Freezer was working but fridge was barely cooling. Look further into how to test thermostat.
I just replaced my defrost thermostat after using the place-in-ice-water method, and I think it may not have been necessary. My timeline: my fridge was not getting cold enough. I realized it the day before going on a trip. I vacuumed the (very dusty) coils at the bottom, and the next morning the fridge seemed colder, but I thought I s
... Read morehould order parts just in case. I ordered a heater and a thermostat. The fridge seemed to be operating normally when I returned from my trip, but I had the parts, so I thought I'd go ahead and dismantle the freezer and test the existing parts. My intention was to return both parts if the old ones passed the tests. I opened up the back of the freezer and there was no ice on the fins. I thought, great, the existing heater works! I cut out the thermostat, placed it in ice water, and didn't get continuity. So I decided to go ahead and put in the new thermostat. Because I'm not experienced with using a multimeter, I thought I'd test the new thermostat to see how the test should work. To my surprise, the new thermostat also failed the test! Stumped, I thought I might as well install the new thermostat, since I had opened the package and couldn't return it. Further internet research suggests the place-in-ice-water method of testing is not adequate. One YouTube video by Parts Dr says to place the part in a working freezer. I froze my old thermostat and tested it; still no continuity. This thermostat may not be typical, though. The video discussed the temperature ratings on thermostats. The temperature rating on both (old and new) thermostats is L8.9-16.7C. That converts to 48-63 degrees fahrenheit, which obviously are not freezing temperatures. I'm not convinced I needed a new thermostat, but I trusted the videos I consulted earlier. I cleaned the fridge thoroughly, so at least now I have a nice clean fridge to show for my efforts.
Drain clogging causing water to leak bottom of fridge
After watching videos how to replace went very easy.removed ice maker cut wires replaced switch put back together now working ok so far.
Ted C from DSRT HOT SPGS, CA
Difficulty Level:
Really Easy
Total Repair Time:
15 - 30 mins
Tools:
Nutdriver
2 of 2 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Water In Bottom Of Refrigerator
Basically, I read all of the remarks from other people that had the same problem , I replaced both the timer and thr defrost(bi metal) thermostat as the thermostat had a ohmic value when closed that I was not comfortable with. The unit is now up and running and defrosting as it's supposed to do. I could not get those pushdown clips that
... Read more hold the timer unit , I ended up breaking them off at the plastic post but there was enough of the plastic post showing that a bit of hotmelt glue was able to hold the timer secure.
Ice buildup on the bottom of the freezer, water dripping into the refrigerator
After unplugging the refrigerator, I used a hairdryer to melt the ice sufficiently to be able to remove the freezer rear panel with a nutdriver. I also removed the ice-maker for easier access to the components behind the panel, using a nutdriver. Once the panel was removed I melted more ice at the bottom of the evaporator housing. Afte
... Read morer partially melting the ice in the drain tube, I poured hot water down the drain tube until it cleared, signaled by the sound of the water dripping into the drain pan. I next removed the clip-on Bimetal thermostat from the copper line going into the evaporator and snipped the two wires to remove it. I installed the replacement thermostat with crimp-style connectors and pull-tested them. I also replaced the timer board that is located below the freezer, below the top shelf, using a nutdriver. I replaced the circuit board as a precaution that the thermostat may not have caused the problem. I didn't change the heater inside the freezer as it checked out to have the same resistance as a new one. I tested the removed thermostat using a glass of ice water but it remained in the open condition, using an ohmmeter. (I later checked that thermostat after the freezer was running and it did close, and returned it to the open position by heating it under the hot water faucet. I suspect that it didn't work properly, or the timer control board was faulty). After re-installing the back panel and ice-maker and plugging the refrigerator into the power receptacle, it worked very well, and has done so since the repair.
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Craig from Rockledge, FL
Difficulty Level:
Easy
Total Repair Time:
More than 2 hours
Tools:
Nutdriver
7 of 8 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Water was dripping from the freezer into the non-frozen area, and the non-frozen area was not cooling
I first disconnected the power cord and then removed all the panels and disconnected the Defrost Heater at the quick-disconnect, and cut the wires on the Defrost Themostat. (The Defrost Thermostat had been replaced about 10 years ago when the Defrost Heater was replaced.) One of the reasons it took longer than 15 minutes was because ther
... Read moree was a buildup of ice in the freezer section. I then soldered the wires and covered them with a plastic sleeve and wrapped them in electrical tape. After replacing all the panels and re-connecting the power cord, I restarted the refrigerator. After one week, there is no water dripping from the freezer and everything is working properly. Your diagnosis of the problem was exactly right. Thanks for the info.
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16 questions answered by our experts.
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Thomas
October 19, 2017
How to test the defrost bimetal if is working or not?
Hi Thomas , Thank you for the question. You can tested the bi-metal defrost thermostat with a ohm meter. When the bimetal is cold it should show zero resistance or closed. If not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing. You can also tested with the bimetal being warm/hot, by using a cup with hot water and dipping the bimetal in the hot water.The ohm meter should show open circuit. If not, the bimetal is bad and needs replacing. Hope this helps!
54 people found this helpful.
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Jeff
February 6, 2018
What is the upper/limit temperature that opens the defrost heater safety switch ? What is the range ?
For model number JCB2389GRS
Hi Jeff, Thank you for the question. The thermostat Limit is rated at L43-27*F. Hope this helps!
18 people found this helpful.
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Ken
September 7, 2017
At what temperature does the switch on the thermostat close?
For model number WP4387503
Hi Ken,
Thank you for the question. The thermostat closes at 18°.
Hope this helps!
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Miguel
November 27, 2018
Hello my name is miguel i have a question about my refrigerator freeze the drain of the freezer that goes down i have to defrost once a month what i can do or what part i should change
For model number ET8WTMXKQ07
Hello Miguel, thank you for your question. I would recommend you remove the rear wall of the freezer compartment to access the defrost drain. It is faster to use a screwdriver and hair dryer by standing the screwdriver up over the frozen drain and heating the screwdriver shaft to thaw the drain. Just blowing the hair dryer is not as effective and will take 15 or 20 minutes longer to accomplish the same thing. Once the drain is clear, pour a cup of hot water through it to clear any residual ice. I like to use a piece of weed eater line about 10 feet long to chase the drain. This ensures that there are no foreign objects in the drain. You should then put about 2 tablespoons of white vinegar in the drain to prevent bacteria from forming. Make sure the area is clear in the freezer so that the hole is not covered, and that the drain tube is not kinked. You may want to replace the tube just to be safe. The part number is PS331122. I hope this helps!
What temp dose this part close and what temp dose it open? I need one to open below 37'f and close around 20'f. Do have one that meets my needs?
Hi Chelsey,
Thank you for your question. This bimetal defrost thermostat has a limit of 48 degrees Fahrenheit. For more information on the correct part for your appliance, we will need your model number. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Vernon
June 5, 2019
Ice is building up in the bottom of my freezer and on the inside of the aluminum tray inside at bottom of the back wall. I've removed everything and cleaned all the ice, put it back together ensuring i have good air flow (done this a couple of times). Within a few hours ice is starting build up again. Does this sound like the defrost thermostat is bad and needs replacing?
For model number Whirlpool ET1CHKXKQ04
Hello Vernon, thank you for writing. You will want to consider either the Defrost Timer part PS11723171, this Bimetal Defrost Thermostat part PS11742474, or the Defrost Heater part PS11740357. We hope this helps.
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Alessica
February 28, 2019
Will part #4387503 work with this fridge?
For model number ET6WSKXKQ00
Hi Alessica,
Thank you for your question. No, this part is not listed under your model number. The part number listed under your model number for the defrost thermostat with wiring harness is PS11739158. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Peter
October 9, 2019
Ok freezer is cold and the refrigerator is warm. Took off the back cover of freezer and the evaporator was iced up. Went inside the refrigerator to the timer and put a screwdriver in and turned it till it clicked and the compressor stopped running. I went up to the freezer to see if the heating rod was getting hot and it was. I got a hair dyer and got ice off while I did I heard the timer click and the refrigerator started running. Got it all deiced. I went to the refrigerator to turn the timer again and it clicked and went off. I went to check the heating rod it was not hot, yet it did just work before and got hot now its not. Is it the timer or the bi-metal thermostat? The heating rod worked before. Any answers please? Help!
For model number ETICHMXKT03
Hi Peter,
Thank you for your question. If the refrigerator is warm, the timer and the bi-metal defrost thermostat are just some of the parts that you will need to check to see what is causing the issue. Here is a link from our website that you may reference on what parts to check, https://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSymptoms.aspx?ModelNum=ET1CHMXKT03&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=3&ost=ETICHMXKTO3&ModelMasterID=342909&PID=10. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!
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Chris Coleman
September 16, 2019
Hi. I replaced the bi-metal thermostat due to ice buildup in the freezer compartment.After a few days or so ice buildup occurred again. next i replaced the defroster heating element, there appears to be frost building up again. my question is if ice buildup happens again are there any other parts to try to rectify that problem?
thanks,
chris
For model number GR2SHKXKL02
Hello Chris, thank you for your question. Yes, we would recommend replacing the PartSelect Number: PS11740238 Adaptive Defrost Control Board. This board turns the defrost cycle on and off to keep the unit frost free. It sounds like the control isn't working properly. I hope this helps!
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PETE
April 17, 2024
BOTH THE FREEZER (-10DEGREES) AND THE REFRIG (30 DEGREES) ARE TOO COLD AND CAN'T BE ADJUSTED WARMER USING THE TEMPERATURE CONTROL. IS THE WP4387503 DEFROST THERMOSTAT THE MOST LIKELY PROBLEM?
For model number ET20DMXAW00
Hello Pete, thank you for your inquiry. According to our research, the issue is most probably with the temperature control thermostat, part number PS316579. We would recommend checking it to solve the problem. It regulates the temperature in the refrigerator. We hope this helps.
