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ZE1660SA01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

All Instructions for the ZE1660SA01
76 - 80 of 80
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Microwave fan would run when opening the door. Evenutally the mircowave would not run, but the electrical panel was still working
Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.
Parts Used:
Secondary Door Switch
  • Julie from Elm Grove, WI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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When opening door the microwave would turn on.
Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.
Parts Used:
Secondary Door Switch
  • Clarence from Rocky Ridge, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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No display
I had a bad cut off sensor on oven cavity I ran the Microwave with nothing in it and it smoked I ran it for another 6 months then 1 day I was heating water and it stop- working. I put a new tube in might be Okay but I was not going to risk it taking another cut off sensor on overload. You have to change sensor and put on a new tube. Clearly it would be cheaper to buy a new unit but it was only 2 years old and I am an old tech and was curious. The sensor cost only 16 bucks new tube about 55 a replace brand new oven 81 bucks there you have it I was stubborn and going to get that sucker back into operation I had another oven go out the same way
Parts Used:
Oven Cavity Thermal Cut Out
  • Dan from Middleburg Hts, OH
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
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GE m/w wiring defect damaged cavity thermal sensor
20 month old GE m/w had made "electrical" smells from beginning. Finally unit failed to turn on. Disassembly was easy except that I needed to buy anti-tamper screw driver bits from Sears to remove two screws. Found the blade connector to the sensor was a loose fit, resulting in severe heating at the connection. Plastic connector was melted and sensor was damaged to the extent this seems a possible fire hazard. Replacing the sensor is trivial, and requires removing one Phillips head screw. Reterminating the defective connector requires basic electrical skills; wire stripping and crimping. Be sure to clip a few millimeters of wire to get undamaged copper. Be sure to replace both connectors if connections feel at all loose. M/w reassembly is trivial.
Parts Used:
Oven Cavity Thermal Cut Out
  • Robert from Edmonds, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Microwave stopped working and nothing would show on the display...completely dead. Wife had just heated two separate items, one for about 10 minutes and one for about 6 minutes. Mircowave was hot to the touch.
I googled "Microwave stopped working", and after reviewing numerous websites with suggestions, I found the response noted below at "Help Owl" which was the most straighfoward and clear explanation to trouble shoot the problem. I first tested the Thermal Cut Out (TCO) per the instructions below and that was the problem. I didn't have to test the electrical fuse. Turns out that you cannot typically use the microwave continuously for more the 12 or 13 minutes or it may overheat and the TCO will shut it down. Extremely easy to test for and fix, and the part is only $15! See Trouble Shooting steps as follows: Make sure that the unit is vented properly and that if you are using it for prolonged periods while cooking, that you turn-on the vent fan.
If there is no display / power within the unit...first check your power source where you plug the unit into the wall.

If that is good, Remove the Cabinette/Cover "Note: it has 3-Torx Anti-Tamper Screws".

Then as you face the microwave from the rear, at the left rear corner is a small circuit board with a fuse. "Check the Fuse"

If the fuse is good, Check the following:

1 - The most common component failure is the "Cabinette TCO" (Thermal Cut-Off Thermostat).

As you face the microwave from the rear...It is located under the cover, on top, on the left front corner area.

It is a Circular, Black & Silver Disc Shaped component about the size of a dime in diameter and is about 1/2" in height.

It has Two (2) Wires attached to it's spade connectors and it acts as a safety fuse.

"IF YOU PUT AN INSULATED JUMPER WIRE ACROSS THE 2 TERMINALS THE POWER SHOULD RETURN AND THE DISPLAY WILL LIGHT"

Anything other than these two items should be checked by an Authorized Service Technician as these microwaves have components thay carry "HIGH VOLTAGE SHOCK HAZZARDS"
Parts Used:
Oven Cavity Thermal Cut Out
  • Robert from The Woodlands, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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All Instructions for the ZE1660SA01
76 - 80 of 80