WRS23W0AWF Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

The radiator was not being properly defrosted and the refrigerator and freezer could not keep the temperature. Two things can be causing this, the defrost module which defrost the refrigerator on a regular basis ($110) or the thermostat ($18). I tried the thermostat since it is very easy to do (remove cover plate inside the freezer, cut wires of old thermostat, connect new thermostat by stripping wires. Presto...however the thermostat was NOT the problem. The problem was a blown timer circuit board that controls the regular defrosting. That repair was done by a technician. The board was $110, it seats inside the refrigerator in the control panel area.

I had already removed the ice maker by loosening the two screws with a 1/4" nut driver, in order to compare the design and style to the intended replacement for size and critical measurements. The replacement was almost identical. The wiring harness was 2-3" longer than the original, but after snaping the wire plugs together I simply curved the wire up and to the left to be out of the way. The hanging brackets are slotted and it was easiest to slip the back hanger over the head of the screw and let it slip down, then the front hanger was already to line up even though you can't see the screw with the ice maker in the way. I had to transfer an L-shaped metal bracket to the bottom side, matching the old assembly, and adjusting it to hold the bottom side away from the freezer compartment a little so it would hang level and secure. You have to snug the two screws with a screw driver or 1/4" nut driver by feel, since you can't see them with the icemaker in place. It took about 10 minutes to take out the old and another 10 to put in the new. We now have a full bin of ice, and the old plastic trays have been retired. I should have done this a year ago.

Loosen two screws, unclip electrical connection, remove ice maker, remove l shaped leveling piece of metal from old one, put on new one. Install in reverse order. Hint.. when loosening two screws, use a mirror

remove the rear cover, and simply pull off harness and replace starter.

The door has nylon gear teeth that wore out and needed replaced. The ice chute came off very easy with 6 screws. I used a punch and pliers to remove the hinge pin. Then the door came off and the new one put on. Very easy. The part was ordered on Sunday and arrived on Tuesday.

Test the light socket first with a bulb that you know is good. If the light still does not come on, unplug the refrigerator, remove the switch by inserting a very small, thin, flathead screwdriver alongside it and pull the switch out slowly with your other hand. There are two wires there. Remove them gently with some needle nose pliers. If you want to test to see if the switch is defective, take a insulated jumper wire, and attach it between the two wires. Plug the refrigerator back in and see if the light comes on. If the light does come on, replace with a new switch by re-attaching the wires and placing it back in the hole firmly.

Removed (unsnapped) plastic cover from back of refrigerator ( inside freezer compartment), determined that the fan was not turning, removed 4 screws from the aluminum back plate in freezer and tilted it down. Removed 2 screws with a nut driver, this allowed the fan to be removed, unpluged fan motor from the bace of the freezer and removed fan. Installed new motor and spent $38.00 to repair the refrigerator that would have cost me severial hundred dollars to replace. Thanks for the help

First I unplugged fridge. I then removed cover that keeps fan protected. I then removed 2 screws that hold the evaporator motor in place. I then removed 3 wires running to motor. Very easy to remove, just pulled connections apart. I then replace the old motor with new.

The Sears repairman wanted to charge me $359 to repair. I did repair for under $40! Amazing what you can save if you have the time and knowlege to do it yourself.

You have to blindly unscrew the two screws along the side of the ice maker. Once that is done simply remove the ice maker to the side to gain access to the electrical plug. Undo the plug and remove the ice maker completely. Install the adapter on the new ice maker and install it in much the same way you removed the old. I started the (2) 1/4" screws before installing the new ice maker to make it easier to hang. Pay careful attention to the wire harness and dress it out of the way. Finally tighten the two screws and make sure the bail wire is down to begin ice making once again.

most importantly on the page with the necessary part..cripser support for the refrigerator--- there was a brief insructional video on how to properly dislodge the broken part and replace it with the new showing the simple tools needed. I am not handy at all but it took me all of two minutes thanks to the helpful video.

Snap out fan cover, remove four 1/4" screws, remove back cover, remove defective fan motor, remove fan blade, install new motor and blade, strip wires and hook up with wire nuts, reinstall back cover, snap in fan cover, and plug in fridge.

first i by passed the timing board, with a ele cord to the fan motor to keep the fridge cool till your parts got here, which was realy fast delivered,
the fan would come on because the board was fried.
it took abot 30 min to install every thind just be carefully unpluging anything.things will break i guess metal eing cold makes the conne4ctors stick together.
evaporator fan is in the frezzer four screws,tested the wires for ohms,and power, when i pluged in the fan i would loss power to the fan,that told me the board was bad, the same night my furnance when to (reaaly) and i lost my borad on the computer ethernet card (lighting isn't fun) it cost to fix everything about 130.00 thanks for thr great parts

- Unsnapped old light socket from top of Frig
- Disconnected elect wires
- Reconnected elect wires to new light socket
- Snapped new socket in place
- Done in less than 2 min.

open refrigerator door unsnap & remove old bin. then just snap new bib in place. very simple.

Easy repair, except the re-install of the entire water/ice part back into the door. The original plastic water line too short to fit back into the small opening. Hint: Go buy 10 inch of new water line and a small connector. Run the new line up through the small opening, and connect to the original water line with the small connector. This made it easy to replace and test, and then cut of the excess water line.
Thanks.