WDF730PAYW3 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

My main fear was finding the part and not knowing my dishwasher model without looking it up in the owner's manual. Imagine my joy to find the part color-coded on the website and extremely easy to find!!!

Repair was easy. After readjusting the dishwasher so that it wasn't leaning forward (it still leaked) I replaced the Door Gasket. Pulled one end out about 2 ft and pushed in the new one as I pulled the old one out and pushed the new one in. Came out and went in easy, just used a big screw driver to slighting push the new gasket in to make sure it fit snug. Fit, Form & Function was all correct. Works like a sharm, no more leaks and door does fit snug when closing. All good.

The fault code suggests a problem with the washer's ability to maintain water temp. This could be caused by a failure of the tempurature sensor module, safety over-temp thermostat, or the heating element. First, I disconnected AC power at the Mains panel. I then verified that the heating element was indeed at fault by removing the dishwasher and disconnecting the leads to the heating element in the rear of the unit. I set a multi-meter to resistance and measured the element and found that it was electrically open, thus proving it was the part needing replacement. I then tested the replacement element and verified it showed low resistance. (Good). I then loosened the plastic retaining nuts with an adjustable wrench, removed the old element and replaced it with the new. The nuts were then re-installed and torqued with enough force to create a leak-tight seal as verified by pouring a gallon of water in the washer. I reconnected the leads and slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it to the counter with screws. I then turned power back on at the AC Mains panel.

Pulled two clips off the rack and removed the tine row. Put the new tine row in, had to put both clips on at the same time. Very glad that the clips we had were not bad, because if they were, we would have had to order new clips too. They might consider including that with the tine row. Otherwise a fairly simple job.

I put this unit in about 3 years ago and the brackets broke at the crease and the dishwasher fell forward. Found the right bracket and when it arrived looked a match. Checked link to video showing how to properly install the brackets. The original manufacturer never stated that the tab that goes through the frame is supposed to be bent 90 degrees to prevent the bracket from coming out. Thank you PartSelect for that video because I would probably end up ordering brackets again in a few years.

twist filler hose assembly to the side and slide hose in. place clamps on hose and attach to water supply and valve.

Turned off water to dishwasher and disconnected hot water and drain hoses. Removed to side screws and kick panel and pulled dishwasher from under counter. Removed old drain hose and fed the new one over to the drain. Reconnected the hot water and new drain hose. Pushed dishwasher under cabinet and screwed to cabinets. Ran the dishwasher and checked for leaks. Replaced kick panel.

I removed old hose and replaced it with a new one and reinstalled the dishwasher.

The repair was very easy - watched two videos on Youtube on how to replace the soap dispenser. The video convinced me I could do the repair myself so I ordered the replacement part. Before I started the repair, I realized none of my screw bits would fit the screws on the door of the dishwasher. Went to Lowes and bought a Kobalt Double Drive screwdriver with a set of screw bits that appeared to include at least one of them that would fit the screws. I needed a T15 bit. Once the door was apart, I unfortunately realized that none of my sockets would fit the screws that were holding the dispenser in place. Had to run back out to Lowes and bought a Kobalt Micro Driver and Nutsetter Set which as it turned out also included a T15 bit so I bought more tools than I needed. Turned out I needed a 3/16 for the screws on the dispenser. If I would have had the right tools, the job would have taken less than a half hour.

To adequately access the drain motor pulling the dishwasher out was required which was the hardest part. Once the dishwasher was out and laid on the back, replacing the motor took about one minute(Very easy, one clip and a small electrical plug)

purchased the correct seal, opened the door and pulled out the old one with one motion. marked the middle on the new one then installed with a little bit of pushing into the slot from one side to the other. making sure to tuck the ends into the recess at bottom of each end and clip off the excess and done! but make sure you replace the lock tab on the top when you replace the seal!!! it comes with it but you will have to slide the washer out a bit to push the old one out, There are no fasteners, Just push out and snap in and wala!! dry floor

Received the new rinse aid cap and put it in. Fit perfectly!Thanks.

snapped on new wheel done

It was a matter of snapping off the broken guide and replacing it with the new one. Simple procedure. I was shocked that it broke in the first place. Sure don't make appliances like they used to.

Solution was very simple with the side mounting bracket kit, the only problem was somehow one of the brackets was damaged out of the box . There's a slight off-set on the bracket to allow it to fit properly next to the dishwasher but this one had been flatten out. Had to have happened before going into the shipping box because they were very well protected with bubblewrap. Also, brackets are fairly heavy gage metal so it would have taken some amount of force to do this. Fortunately I was was able to bend it back into a useable shape. It wasn't perfect to look at but because it's mounted behind the side of the dishwasher it didn't matter as long as it worked.