Parts That Fix General Electric Washer WCVH6800J1WW Leaking
Leaking is a commonly reported symptom for the WCVH6800J1WW General Electric Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your WCVH6800J1WW General Electric Washer that will fix Leaking. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
Fixes Symptom 57% of time
Also known as Bellow. The part may differ in appearance but functions same as original.
$
240.70
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1766023
Manufacturer Part Number WH08X10036
Replacing your General Electric Washer Door Boot Seal
Customer Repair Stories
The rubber gasket on my front loader had a rip in it and soap and water would leak out at the bottom making a nice puddle to walk in on.
I read and reread all of the installation repairs everyone had sent in. Everyone said on the average it would take 1-2 hours. I partly started the install myself and the ran into a problem. My wife was my helping second hands( second hands is a great help) and she suggested to either google or YouTube the repair. Within minutes I had fou
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nd one on you tube and it help me tremendously. it had the exact model washer on the video and the install was a breeze. I would recommend looking up the repair cause they show step by step video and makes it a lot easier.
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Gerard from Pompano Beach, FL
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers
101 of 118 people
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Water leaking from the door.
I had to replace the door gasket because there was a small piece that had torn away, which caused large amounts of water to leak when the load of laundry was too big. Smaller loads of laundry would just produce a little bit of water.
Unsure of how to replace the gasket, I used a phillips screwdriver to pull the door and front panel ... Read more off. I thought that this would be pretty simple, but I soon discovered that it wasn't as simple as removing several screws and pulling the pieces off. The door was easy, the bottom panel was easy, but the front panel was held in place by screws, plastic tabs, the front of the gasket (I'll explain later), and gravity by means of plastic supports. Trying to find and release the tabs, lifting the panel up and out was not self-explanatory. I finally figured it out, and it made changing the gasket out, a breeze. The gasket is held in by two diferent wire spring clamps/bands. One band holds the gasket to the outside of the tub, and the other band holds the gasket to the front panel. Before removing the front panel you must remove the first band which is cleverly hidden by the face of the rubber gasket. Just peel it back...it's in there. I was able to pull/pry this off with a screwdriver because I was not worried about damaging the old gasket. The second band had to be removed with either a 6mm/7mm wrench(I can't remember which) or a stubby phillips screwdriver. The stubby screwdriver is handy because of the proximity of the tubs counterweights. Once the final band is removed just peel the gasket away from the tub, after taking note of how it came off. Put the fully loosened band on the new gasket and fit the new gasket into place. It helped to have two sets of hands to work it around the tub, but probably not necessary. The wrench is necessary to properly tighten the band, because you cannot get enough torque on the stubby screwdriver.Once the gasket is in place you can re-install the front panel, and secure the front of the gasket to the panel. Install the band and it will secure itself by the tension of the spring. Put the door back on and you are ready to wash clothes.
Unsure of how to replace the gasket, I used a phillips screwdriver to pull the door and front panel ... Read more off. I thought that this would be pretty simple, but I soon discovered that it wasn't as simple as removing several screws and pulling the pieces off. The door was easy, the bottom panel was easy, but the front panel was held in place by screws, plastic tabs, the front of the gasket (I'll explain later), and gravity by means of plastic supports. Trying to find and release the tabs, lifting the panel up and out was not self-explanatory. I finally figured it out, and it made changing the gasket out, a breeze. The gasket is held in by two diferent wire spring clamps/bands. One band holds the gasket to the outside of the tub, and the other band holds the gasket to the front panel. Before removing the front panel you must remove the first band which is cleverly hidden by the face of the rubber gasket. Just peel it back...it's in there. I was able to pull/pry this off with a screwdriver because I was not worried about damaging the old gasket. The second band had to be removed with either a 6mm/7mm wrench(I can't remember which) or a stubby phillips screwdriver. The stubby screwdriver is handy because of the proximity of the tubs counterweights. Once the final band is removed just peel the gasket away from the tub, after taking note of how it came off. Put the fully loosened band on the new gasket and fit the new gasket into place. It helped to have two sets of hands to work it around the tub, but probably not necessary. The wrench is necessary to properly tighten the band, because you cannot get enough torque on the stubby screwdriver.Once the gasket is in place you can re-install the front panel, and secure the front of the gasket to the panel. Install the band and it will secure itself by the tension of the spring. Put the door back on and you are ready to wash clothes.
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Brandon from Chugiak, AK
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
219 of 256 people
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Fixes Symptom 18% of time
This is the replacement water inlet pipe or water inlet valve for your washer. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 8.5 inches by 3 inches, with an opening diameter of approximately 2.5 inches. The water inlet pipe controls the water flow to your washer during operation. If your washer is not getting enough water, or if it is leaking, you may have a cracked or damaged water inlet pipe. This part is sold individually and is a genuine OEM part.
No Longer Available
PartSelect Number PS1015797
Manufacturer Part Number WH41X10118
Replacing your General Electric Washer Water Inlet Pipe
Customer Repair Stories
Water leak at front of washer
Removed top and front control panel. Shut off water, disconnect water lines at front and dispenser. Remove dispenser. Remove water inlet pipe by pulling out of boot. Install new pipe.Reverse proceedure. Note, these pipes may tend to split on the bottom.
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Charles from Madison, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Water leaking on floor
The repair video was almost perfect. I would not have even attempted the repair without the video as I am not a handyman at all. The diagnostic feature based on the symptoms was invaluable. I originally took the front of the washer off because I thought the rubber seal around the door was leaking.It was like 67% of the problem. But afte
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r checking the front seal carefully, I determined it wasn't. The next most likely issue as only rated 19% but when the water inlet pipe, I was actually tickled to see a crack in the plastic pipe. I ordered on line on Monday and with the cheapest shipping, I received my part in the mail on Thursday. I would highly recommend using Part Select for diagnostic, parts and repair. I will definitely use again. If I could make one recommendation to Part Select, it would be to do a close up during the video when the technician is working with a part, i.e., the wiring that goes around the rubber seal.
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Doug from Roca, NE
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 8% of time
No Longer Available
PartSelect Number PS1021589
Manufacturer Part Number WH41X10119
Replacing your General Electric Washer DISPENSER_SEAL
Fixes Symptom 5% of time
No Longer Available
PartSelect Number PS1021681
Manufacturer Part Number WH41X10131
Customer Repair Stories
hole in drain line
All i did is pull the front panel off,then n removed the front clap with channel locks then the side clamp the same way.i then removed the main clamp with a Phillips screwdriver very simple not ever 15 minutes to do
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glenn from northfeild, NH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Leakage developed from holes in drain hose
Two people make the job easier: the smaller on his back doing the work, while the other positions lights and provides tools. Remove bottom panel. Loosen and slide the two small spring clips back from fittings. Locate (out of sight in the back) and loosen the screw-type tensioner on large, upper clamp. Remove old hose and position clamps
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on new hose. Seat all hose fittings securely and reposition spring clamps. A bit of soapy water for lubrication can help. Tighten down screw tensioner on large clamp. Test by pouring bucket of water into washer.
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James from Cincinnati, OH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
26 of 41 people
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Fixes Symptom 3% of time
$
30.00
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1016305
Manufacturer Part Number WH01X10279
Fixes Symptom 3% of time
This water inlet valve attaches the water lines to the back of your appliance. The attaching solenoids on the valve open and close according to the desired temperature, or amount of water needed.
$
102.75
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1019151
Manufacturer Part Number WH13X10023
Replacing your General Electric Washer Water Inlet Valve
Customer Repair Stories
inlets cross threaded from water hose connections
I unplugged the power cord from the wall outlet, then I had to remove the top panel off the machine by removing the three phillips screws holding the back trim strip to the front top of the machine, than I removed the three 1/4 inch head screws holding the top panel found at the back top of machine. I now pulled the top pannel to the rear
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and removed the top pannel. Then I used pliers to squeeze open and slide clear the small clamp to the rubber hose to the valve and removed the hose end to the valve. Then I carefully pulled off the four wire connectors to the two solenoids of the valve.
Than I removed the one 1/4 inch head screw found on the back side of the machine securing the valve to the machine. Then I removed the valve by sliding it to the mounting screw side to disengage it.
Install the valve in reverse order but I tightened the valve holding screw only till it's seated because it screws into soft plastic. 6/15/08
Than I removed the one 1/4 inch head screw found on the back side of the machine securing the valve to the machine. Then I removed the valve by sliding it to the mounting screw side to disengage it.
Install the valve in reverse order but I tightened the valve holding screw only till it's seated because it screws into soft plastic. 6/15/08
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Allan from Tucson, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
36 of 51 people
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machine would not fill on any cycle requiring hot water, Machine would work fine on cold cycles
I Disconnected power to machine and shut off water supply lines. Move washer away from wall and removed supply lines.(good time to replace them if older than five years) Where these supply lines attach to the washer is the water valve you are replacing. There are 3 screws on the back of the cabinet lid, then on the front 3 more screws hol
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d the lid to the plastic control housing. After removing screws you need to slide the lid up and towards the back of the machine app. 1 1/2"to 2" before you can raise the lid up and off of the machine. Once the lid is off it is just one screw holding the valve, and a hose clamp that needs removed from the end of the valve. Then slide valve to the right (looking from front of machine to the back.) I left the wires attached to the old valve,installed the new valve then reattached the wires in the same order as they were on the old valve to avoid confusion. (note valve must slide into place to get screw to line up.)assemble is reverse of the above steps. Don't forget to level machine. Be careful attaching water supply lines plastic valve threads can strip without much effort.
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Robert from Altoona, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable)
56 of 76 people
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Fixes Symptom 2% of time
$
28.66
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1019932
Manufacturer Part Number WH01X10277
Replacing your General Electric Washer GASKET INSIDE CLAMP
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
$
54.82
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1022525
Manufacturer Part Number WH41X10127
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
No Longer Available
PartSelect Number PS1017093
Manufacturer Part Number WH41X10122
10 PUMP FILTER
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
$
96.75
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS16874133
Manufacturer Part Number WH11X34741
Customer Repair Stories
Water leaking
Did not have to use the new pump filter. The old one finally worked. I probably didn’t screw it in tight enough.
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Herman from SAN DIEGO, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
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Fixes Symptom 1% of time
$
10.75
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS1017683
Manufacturer Part Number WH01X10266