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TFJ20JABCWW
TFJ20JABCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the TFJ20JABCWW
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Bottom Hinge Assembly
PartSelect #: PS290199
Manufacturer #: WR13X10020
Comes with both cam risers. This hinge kit is suitable for the bottom of either the freezer door or the refrigerator door of some refrigerators.
$47.33
In Stock
Light Switch
PartSelect #: PS8758429
Manufacturer #: WR23X10725
The interior light of your refrigerator is controlled by a switch that is activated when the door is opened and closed. If your refrigerator light will not turn on, there could be an issue with the sw...
$8.56
In Stock
Hinge Cam Riser
PartSelect #: PS284596
Manufacturer #: WR02X10140
This part helps with the closing of the door and helps keep it in position.
$11.59
In Stock
Light Bulb - 40W
PartSelect #: PS217532
Manufacturer #: 40A15
This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
$11.02
In Stock
Defrost Heater with Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS303933
Manufacturer #: WR51X442
This part assembly has 2 functions: The defrost heater keeps the cooling coils from frosting over and the thermostat senses that the heat near the cooling coils has reached the desired temperature. Us...
$126.91
In Stock
Package of 12 Screws
PartSelect #: PS312573
Manufacturer #: WZ4X244D
This is a package of twelve Phillips-head screws. They can be used as replacement screws in refrigerators, ice makers, or freezers. Be sure to check that your appliance model is compatible with these ...
No Longer Available
Door Handle - White
PartSelect #: PS289204
Manufacturer #: WR12X10332
Handle only. Extensions and mounting hardware is sold separately.
$37.92
In Stock
Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS303471
Manufacturer #: WR50X122
This clip on refrigerator defrost thermostat clips on to your refrigerator's evaporator. It will cut out at 60 degrees Fahrenheit and kick back in when the temperature drops to 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
$51.25
In Stock
Screw
PartSelect #: PS271689
Manufacturer #: WH2X930
This screw is sold individually.
$12.22
In Stock
Evaporator Fan Blade Kit
PartSelect #: PS304684
Manufacturer #: WR60X114
This kit features a 5-blade plastic evaporator fan blade that rotates CCW and measures 4.5-inches in diameter and has a 3/8-inch-tall shaft. This kit also has a metal compression ring that secures the...
$26.55
In Stock
Drawer Slide Rail - Left Side
PartSelect #: PS306735
Manufacturer #: WR72X10010
This part is the replacement drawer slide rail for your refrigerator. It is made of white plastic and is approximately 16 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. The crisper draw will slide in and out along ...
No Longer Available
Lower Tail Handle
PartSelect #: PS288965
Manufacturer #: WR12X10106
For side by side refrigerator/freezers. Also known as Handle Trim.
$77.49
In Stock
Questions And Answers for TFJ20JABCWW
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Common Symptoms of the TFJ20JABCWW
[Viewing 15 of 15]Light not working
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Door won’t open or close
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Fridge too warm
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Freezer not defrosting
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Freezer section too warm
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Noisy
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Leaking
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Door Sweating
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Will Not Start
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Frost buildup
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Clicking sound
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sticking Light Switch
I applied some tips learned by reading other reviews. So before I started I grabbed my trusty vise grip pliers and a small screw driver. I locked onto the switch actuator, the part that the refrigerator door pushes in, with the vise grips and pulled on it just hard enough to get the screw driver inserted in the right side to push in the c
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atch clip so the switch could be pulled out further each time the catch clip was depressed to the next detent. Then I used the screw driver on the left site to encourage the switch past the detents on the left and very quickly the switch was out of the mount. The wires from the refrigerator pulled out with the old switch. I unplugged the old switch from the wires and plugged in the new switch and shoved the new switch back into the mount, wiggled it a couple of times to make sure it was secure and the job was done. Once I applied the vise gripes at first, the whole job took less than a minute.
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Parts Used:
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Jonathan from Lilburn, GA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
116 of 144 people
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Icing on the interior back wall of the freezer and varying temperature in the refrigerator
Disconnected the power to the refrigerator/freezer. Removed the shelving in the freezer. Had to remove the light cover (1 screw in center top of light, slide to left and cover is removed) located in the top of freezer to obtain access to the screw in the back panel. Removed the back panel (using nut driver). Four screws (2 at the top
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and 2 at the bottom). Used a heat gun to defrost the coils enough to remove the screws and wiring harness. I started at the bottom unit by removing 2 screws with a #2 phillip screwdriver to remove the lower defrosting element. Carefully pulling the wiring forward from the sides of the cooling coils until I reached the next defrost coil. Repeat removing 2 screws to remove the next defrost element. Continue to carefully pull wiring harness toward yourself. Remove the Thermostat (just clipped on the upper left side of coil. Remove the plug. Carefully reverse the process to complete the process.
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Parts Used:
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SAMUEL from DUNCANNON, PA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
65 of 70 people
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My wife said, "the refrigerator door won't close".
Our refrigerator is a double door unit with ice and water in the left door. The right door was the one with the problem. It was 5:15 AM when the problem occured. I could see that the door was out of alighnment and had dropped down - preventing it from closing. I lifted the door and closed it. I wrote down the model number and found a
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detailed drawing of the appliance on the web site "partselect.com". When the hing earrived I compared it to the broken one. I removed all the food stored on the door, put several pieces of wood under the door to shim it to the same height as the adjacent door. I then removed two bolts from the refrigerator with a 1/4" socket set. I put the shim from the old hing aside for later. I removed two bolts from the door with the same socket -Note a metal tab had to be bent silghtly so the wrench could go on the head of the bolt- I removed the plastic cam and made note of its orientation and that of the shim above it on the door. I put the shim and new cam in place on the door and installed the 2 bolts. I inserted the pin of the new hing into the hole in the cam (I had just mounted) on the door. I put the shim (the one put aside earlyer) behind the hing and replaced the two bolts. I held the shim and hing up against the door as I tightened the two bolts. When I was satisfied that the bolts were tight I removed the wooden blocks that were holding the door up so the door was supported by the new bottom hing assembly. The door now opperates perfectly and the refrigerator was not taken out of service for the repair. Total time including cleanup was a little over 15 minutes.
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Parts Used:
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Gregory from Zephyrhills, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Socket set
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