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Oven seals got dried and cracked
The top seal was too long (my fault, ordered wrong length seal) so I had to cut it and high-temp epoxy the metal hook into the end. Overall pretty easy fix.
Had to remove the 4 range knobs, and the oven knob and then the facie. Two screws under the end caps and two on each side from the back on each end. Design defect: one of these screws which attaches through the frame to the facie also attaches the support which holds up the range top. Take that one off last. Remove the two wires that attach to the oven light switch. After detaching the power supply to the defective ignition unit, it just pulls right off. Push the new switch on over the knob shaft and reassemble.
Removed the burner plates. Lifted up the range top. Removed the knobs. Unbolted the 2 rounded nuts at top of face plate. Removed the 4 screws that hold the face plate in place from behind. Un plugged the old switch and plugged in the new one and bam! The burner worked. Thanks, Super fast shipping! The part was here in less than 36 hours. John, N.J.
I used the experience of another user posted on your web site. I removed all the gas control knobs and then I followed his instructions about removing the four phillps head screws that held the front plate in place. Once I had it loose and flipped the plate out, it was simple to disconnect the old ignitor switch and install the new one. Simply reversing the process put the range back in proper order. Took a little over 15 minutes to accomplish.
The repair was really easy! I read a review where the gentleman had order the wrong size and that had me a little worried because I did not specify a size. There were three seals on my range so I figured if one broke I might as well replace all three. When I received the seals they were the right size and it took me less than five minutes to put them on. No tools needed because they had hooks on each end. Thanks a lot!
Lower existing oven seal was missing, the top oven seal was stretched and the side seals were old & cracking. The heat leaked out of oven and food baked unevenly.
I removed the old stretched and cracking seals by unhooking the metal brackets from the holes at the corners of the oven, and replaced them with the new seals, which fit perfectly. It took about a minute. My 25 year old oven is working wonderfully now.
The side seals were available and hooked into place with no effort at all. The OEM top and bottom seals were not available any longer so I purchased the recommended substitute which was about 2" too long. I took the advice from another of your customers and cut the top and bottom seals to the correct length and using hi-temp epoxy reattached the hooks to the shortened end. On an additional note the seal itself is partially tubular in cross-section an by that virture protects the hi-temp epoxy from the heat.
Used 2 side seals to make a new top seal (no longer available). Cut the 2 new side seals to provide about 1/2" less length than the old top seal. Removed one of the end hooks and straightened the hook, removed the old silicone from the hook. Used high temperature silicone and the old hook to splice the cut ends together. Let cure over-night and reinstalled. Works like a champ.
The side seals fit perfectly so I just put the hooks in the holes! The top seal was too long so I cut it to size and used super glue which did not hold. Next I looked for a high temp glue with no luck. Finally I put the hook into the seal and used a very fine wire through the holes in the metal of the hook piece and twisted the wire until it held the metal piece in place. Then I installed the top seal and it works fine. There is no longer heat pouring out the top of the oven and my brownies cooked at the right temp for the right time. Hooray!