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I broke the Bake Element while cleaning the oven.
I removed the two screws that held the bake element in place. Next I removed the Bake Element. I had to unscrew the oven to go behind it because when one piece off of the element broke, it slide back behind the oven. I pushed the wire back thru the piece holes, connected the Element, and pushed the element with the wires back through the holes. I rescrewed the element in place and the oven. PartSelect helped me to save this year's Christmas.
This built-in oven was slid out of it's space and set on a box. I removed the back cover with nut driver and located the safety overload device. removed nuts and used pliers to remove wires and replace them. The power must be off to do this repair.Replaced the cover and slid back into place. This could be a lot more difficult if your power cord or gas line is not long enough to make it out of your wall space. Or of your oven is attached well to the frame.
It was easy to remove the old element. It only required the removal of two screws and pulling apart the electric connectors. It was just as simple to install the new one.
Turned power to oven off. Removed trim screws and trim. Removed screws that anchored oven in cabinet. Removed oven from cabinet. Removed back panel, tested thermal fuse. Determined it was defective, ordered new part and reversed procedures above to reinstall.
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.
Turned the power to the oven off. Took two crews out. Disconnected the old unit, connected the new unit, put the two screws back in and tested the unit.
I removed all the screws attaching the inner liner to the door, then removed the broken glass. I did this before ordering the replacement glass so I could be sure that only one piece was broken -- the door contains four pieces of glass in all. After the replacement glass arrived (really fast delivery!), I cleaned all the parts and reassembled the door. I had some difficulty in aligning the screw holes properly, and I'm still not sure if I have the exterior sheet of glass positioned correctly -- the schematic shows the order in which the parts go together but not how they fit exactly. I should have inspected the door more closely before I took it apart. Anyway, it feels solid and everything seems to work.
The glass caps that cover the bulbs screw out by hand. Then, it was just like changing any other light bulb. I put the caps back on, and magically, we could once again see our food cooking. We had asked other repair companies to replace the bulbs when we had other major work done, but they either didn't want to take the time to get a part number, or didn't want to get it for us. On the PartSelect website, it was easy for us to find and order, not to mention we saved at least $75.00 on the service call alone. Thanks PartSelect!
Recieved the part promptly. From looking at the diagrams, we knew the overload thermostat was located on the back of the oven. We removed the screws, brackets, etc, slid the oven out, which for us was fairly easy as it's an under counter oven. Located the thermostat, removed it, replaced the new one, connected two clip wires, replaced the oven, turned the power back on and it works like a champ. Total cost was under 50 bucks.
Bake element was broken. Oven would not shut down.
I used a cordless screwdriver to remove the retaing screws. One of the connections was pucshed back too far and was almost hidden in the hole. I used the tweezers to pull it out, replace the bake lelement and the retaining screws. I'm good to go!
Take door off completely by setting hinge locks into place and then removing door. Take all of the screws out from frame (remember that the flat screws go the outside and the raised heads on the inside of door)Remove the clips on the bottom of door as well. Carefully remove frame. Then remove the inner glass clips, this will allow you to remove the broke or cracked glass easily and install the new glass. Set the door on a soft towel with finish side down. Make sure your hinges are on the proper sides if you moved them. (you will see where the screw hole matches up with the bottom of the frame. Do everything in reverse to put back together. Good Luck
Problem : One of the door latch center spindle locking clips had sheared off when the door was slamed shut. The latch then lifts up causing the light switch stay on and latch to stay engaged. Repair: REMOVE POWER TO STOVE 1/ To open the door slide your fingers or a bent tool right to left to slide the latch to open the door. 2/ Go to the bottom of the open door on both sides and remove the screws. Then lift the plastic covering strips away. 3/ Remove the screws on both outsides at the top of the removed tracks 4/ Now you can lift the front panel with the clock up and off. 5/ Remove the 3 plugs on the back of that panel . 6/ Remove the 2 screws just above the latch. 7/ Remove the latch assemby.
Digital control panel went haywire.. Control would not function
First I removed the two screws that hold the sensor element in place (from inside the oven). I then pulled the sensor out about three inches and disconnected the two wires, and connected the new sensor. Screwed the sensor back into the back oven wall..
There was some confusion with the repair tech who first thought I would have to pull the pven out and remove the sensor from the back so that increased the time for repair. After pulling the oven it was obvious that the repair could be made from the inside.. The repair Tech's diagnosis of the problem was correct a nd fast. Part cost $75 on line ($102 from dealer locally). Saved over $125 cost compared to local repair man's visti.and that is a low side guess. Repair tech was very communicative.
Upper oven bake and broil elements fail to heat when keypad entries made and indicating correctly
Replacement of the thermal overload safety thermostat very straight forward after sliding unit out, killing power and removing two covers. Tested both old and new and both show continuity (= good). Installed new, restored power and tested for proper operation. Didn't happen. Replaced original and now have new as spare. Now suspect the double line break relay on electronic control board is failed and source of problem. It is common to both elements and immediate before the suspected thermostat in circuit.