This is a replacement grease filter for your microwave. Sometimes known as the air filter, this part fits underneath your microwave and catches grease. As a result, your grease filter can become clogg...
The secondary door switch is a simple on/off mechanism that stops the microwave from operating when the door is open (normally opened). The switch monitors the door latch position, and communicates w...
The microwave glass light lens protects the light bulb inside the appliance. It is clear in color and measures approximately 6-1/2 inches long, and 2-1/2 inches wide. You may notice that this part is ...
Unplug your microwave before attempting this repair. You will need to remove the grill, which is held into place by two screws at the top of the grill (open your microwave door before doing this). Rem...
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Terry
April 4, 2023
I need the 2 bulbs on the bottom of the microwave, not sure if that is bulb listed above in parts list. Thank you
For model number PVM9195SF1SS
Hello Terry, Thank you for contacting us. We have researched the model you have provided and have found the part you are looking for is PartSelect Number PS651484. Thank you for the inquiry, good luck with the repair!
Hello Pamela, thank you for contacting us. We believe your microwave is having this problem because of the blown fuse. The fuse does not come separately. It comes as an assembly with the noise filter, part number PS8766977. We hope this helps!
the lights under the microwave will not turn off - I have unplugged the unit and pluged it back in after 30 min and the light still will not turn off - I have removed the bulbs for now
For model number PVM9195SF1SS
Hello Ursula, thank you for reaching out. Based on our understanding of the issue, we would suggest checking the electronic control board, part number PS8755571, to solve the problem. Glad to be of assistance!
Noted on partselect.com that someone else with this problem, found it to be secondary door switch. There are three door switches in this model, but online info noted that one of the three might feel "soft" (in my case, one switch clicked in a rather "jiggly" way, the other two were strong decisive clicks.) To access the door switches on
... Read more this model was the only difficult part. First use a torx bit to remove the two torx screws below the latches inside the microwave. This frees the latching part inside, that holds the door switches, which you will remove after you take off the control panel. The top grill has to come off before you can remove the door panel. Remove the screws above the grill, on the microwave top cover, The grill on this model is covered with a panel that moves out when it vents. After removing the two top screws, the covered grill vent slides left to remove. Be careful, as the sliding tabs are plastic. Wiggle and jiggle it, to slip it off. Below the removed grill, is a small metal grill with one screw in lower center. Remove that screw, and wiggle that out. You'll then see the one screw that holds on the control panel. Remove this screw, and lift the control panel up to remove. Again, go slowly and gently, as the bottom tabs holding the control panel in, are also plastic and easily broken. Lay the control panel on something, (I used the coffee maker) and pull out the wire bundles tucked on the left, that are attached to the latching panel. Wiggle the latching panel gently to lift it up off of it's plastic tabs and pull it out towards you, so you can see the three door switches. Each switch (part number WB24X829) has a little black switch on it. Feel each switch with either your finger, or a screwdriver to see which one doesn't "click" strongly. The weak one is the one you will replace. The door switches are fitted into a tab, and plugged into their wires. Remove the defective switch, pull out the wires, and replace it with the new switch, plugging back the wires, and slipping it back into it's plastic tabs. Then put everything back together in reverse order. The entire job took me fifteen minutes EXCEPT for figuring out how to slide off the upper grill, which I have told you. A repairman would have cost $150, the part was $18. AND, there's a good chance, the other two switches will get "used up" in the next year or so as well, so I'll be ready next time. Thank you, Partselect, why work all day, to make money, only to give it to somebody else, for fifteen minutes of work. All I needed was the knowledge.
A great place to start is to reveiw the posting from "Marla From Arlington TX" posted on 8-3-09. It provides an excellent description of the process that you will need to follow. The only additional thing that I would add is to check the contacts on the switches. In my case I found that all three of the switches had a small build-up of
... Read more corrosion. I used sandpaper to clean the contacts. Because none of the switches had a "soft" click to them, it was hard to identify the bad one. I basically picked the worse looking one and then cleaned the contacts of the other two. I'm not sure if I actually even had a bad switch or if they all just needed cleaning. Whatever the case, it worked. I would suggest checking the contacts first. You may get away with not having to replace any of the switches. And in my case what makes me think that it may have just simply been dirty contacts is that the heating mechanism would engage every now and then. It wasn't dead 100 percent of the time. It's worth a try anyway.
