Parts That Fix Maytag Washer MVWC300VW1 Leaking
Leaking is a commonly reported symptom for the MVWC300VW1 Maytag Washer, and we have put together a full guide on how to fix this. This advice is based on feedback from people who own this exact appliance. We have listed the most common parts for your MVWC300VW1 Maytag Washer that will fix Leaking. We have included repair instructions, and helpful step-by-step video tutorials. If you are experiencing this issue, not to worry, DIYers just like you have fixed this, and shared their experience to help you!
Fixes Symptom 22% of time
This part may also be referred to as a main outer tub seal. This part prevents leaking from the bottom of the tub. The gasket is approximately 2 inches in diameter to the outer edge, black in color, and made of plastic material. To perform this repair, you will need to disconnect the power, drain hose, and the inlet hose. You will need to remove the entire outside cabinet to have access to the tub assembly. The tub will need to be removed entirely. This is a genuine part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer.
$
5.76
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11723081
Manufacturer Part Number W10814296
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Centerpost Gasket
Customer Repair Stories
The middle tub would not come out
Sprayed wd40 - limescale - boiling water , NOTHING WORKED after half an hour reapeted spraying and pulling the tub and shaking it back and forth - still nothing
Finally I replaced the center nut loosely than putting a piece of wood on top of it and with me holding the tub slightly high - my wife than whacked it hard several times , ... Read more I also was turning the tub every whack
When it came out it was full of rust and grime - it would have never come out without what we did
Replacing the the rubber washer was easy - machine works and no more leaking- thank you for your video which really helped to start the job
Finally I replaced the center nut loosely than putting a piece of wood on top of it and with me holding the tub slightly high - my wife than whacked it hard several times , ... Read more I also was turning the tub every whack
When it came out it was full of rust and grime - it would have never come out without what we did
Replacing the the rubber washer was easy - machine works and no more leaking- thank you for your video which really helped to start the job
Read less
-
Jayanti from SNELLVILLE, GA
-
Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
5 of 7 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
leaking from tub
First I turned off the water and unplugged the washer from the outlet. I took the two screws off the console and turned it up to undo the clips that hold the cabinet to the back. I took out the 2 phillips screws at the top corners of the back. I was then able to pull cabinet off and not have to remove the console, but carefully slid it t
... Read more
o the side, as ther wires were still attached.
Pried off agitator cap & reached into agitator to pry out another cap to access 7/16 bolt. Checked over the agitator parts for wear (dogs) Took agitator, top outer (white) and inner (brown) tub rings off.
Sprayed lots of liqid wrench around spanner nut and drive block and gave it time to work. Used spanner tool to get spanner nut off. Hard work. Pounded and pounded and pounded and pounded with hammer. It gave a tiny bit. Then I got an idea: I pounded it back the other way, as you would to tighten. This helped. I then pounded back the other way and did this again. It worked amazingly well.
Got to drive block and it was rusted out along the bottom and also hard to get off. The diagram showed a "lock" (horseshoe shaped thing) on top of it, but mine was all in one piece but I couldn't tell that. I sprayed and pryed and pounded from the bottom and it split in half. It needed to be replaced anyway.
The inner tub was also hard to get out and I used some dish liquid. I pushed down, (using the rags here, the edges can cut you). I twisted, I pulled. I pushed, I pulled, I cussed, and begged. I then went to bed and then next day I pushed backwards and forwards and side to side & finally it came off. Then I undid the brackets on the bottom of the outer tub along the bottom and disconnected the clear hose in back. When loosening the black hose clamp in front to the pump, water started to come out of the hose so I grabbed a cool whip container to catch it. It smelled yucky. Once I had the outer tub off I put the new seal in, using some plumber's grease to help get ithe tub over the shaft..Then I hooked up the hoses & brackets on the bottom of the outer tub. I cleaned out the outer tub, as there was crud in the bottom. Then I poured about 5 gallons of water in it to see if the seal was set in right. Make sure the drain hose hasn't fallen out! (You can leave this water in the tub, you'll find out why) I cleaned up the rust on tube of the inner tub with steel wool and inspected everything else. Something didn't look quite right about the outer shaft that goes around the spin tube. It looked like something should go there. I discovered there SHOULD have been a seal there but one was never put in. So I put one in. I used a little grease to help put the new drive block on, and tightened the spanner nut with the spanner wrench. I put everything else back on EXCEPT for the cabinet-with the console attached. Ha Ha All the other directions I read wrote to take the console off first. If I had done that I wouldn't have been able to do the most important part of the job: testing the result. I finished filling the tub to the lowest water level to watch it go thru it's cycles and checked for leaks. If the console was "flopped over" the back how can you check? (I don't play with wiring)
I turned off the water & unplugged the washer and slid the cabinet on.. I tipped the console back to access the large gold squiggly brackets that hold the cabinet to the back and reattached them to the back, by removing them, hooking them onto the back, and snapping them into place. I double-DOUBLE checked to see if anything had come loose, then slid the console first on top of the back and put the two screws back in. The screws on my machine are not covered up by the end caps, but they are at a wierd angle, so I held the console up slighly and started the screws first. As they tightened down the console slid into the holes on the cabinet.
There is a small sppliance shop in my town & the guy loaned me the spanner wrench. It was very nice of him.I guess I will have to give his & his famil
Pried off agitator cap & reached into agitator to pry out another cap to access 7/16 bolt. Checked over the agitator parts for wear (dogs) Took agitator, top outer (white) and inner (brown) tub rings off.
Sprayed lots of liqid wrench around spanner nut and drive block and gave it time to work. Used spanner tool to get spanner nut off. Hard work. Pounded and pounded and pounded and pounded with hammer. It gave a tiny bit. Then I got an idea: I pounded it back the other way, as you would to tighten. This helped. I then pounded back the other way and did this again. It worked amazingly well.
Got to drive block and it was rusted out along the bottom and also hard to get off. The diagram showed a "lock" (horseshoe shaped thing) on top of it, but mine was all in one piece but I couldn't tell that. I sprayed and pryed and pounded from the bottom and it split in half. It needed to be replaced anyway.
The inner tub was also hard to get out and I used some dish liquid. I pushed down, (using the rags here, the edges can cut you). I twisted, I pulled. I pushed, I pulled, I cussed, and begged. I then went to bed and then next day I pushed backwards and forwards and side to side & finally it came off. Then I undid the brackets on the bottom of the outer tub along the bottom and disconnected the clear hose in back. When loosening the black hose clamp in front to the pump, water started to come out of the hose so I grabbed a cool whip container to catch it. It smelled yucky. Once I had the outer tub off I put the new seal in, using some plumber's grease to help get ithe tub over the shaft..Then I hooked up the hoses & brackets on the bottom of the outer tub. I cleaned out the outer tub, as there was crud in the bottom. Then I poured about 5 gallons of water in it to see if the seal was set in right. Make sure the drain hose hasn't fallen out! (You can leave this water in the tub, you'll find out why) I cleaned up the rust on tube of the inner tub with steel wool and inspected everything else. Something didn't look quite right about the outer shaft that goes around the spin tube. It looked like something should go there. I discovered there SHOULD have been a seal there but one was never put in. So I put one in. I used a little grease to help put the new drive block on, and tightened the spanner nut with the spanner wrench. I put everything else back on EXCEPT for the cabinet-with the console attached. Ha Ha All the other directions I read wrote to take the console off first. If I had done that I wouldn't have been able to do the most important part of the job: testing the result. I finished filling the tub to the lowest water level to watch it go thru it's cycles and checked for leaks. If the console was "flopped over" the back how can you check? (I don't play with wiring)
I turned off the water & unplugged the washer and slid the cabinet on.. I tipped the console back to access the large gold squiggly brackets that hold the cabinet to the back and reattached them to the back, by removing them, hooking them onto the back, and snapping them into place. I double-DOUBLE checked to see if anything had come loose, then slid the console first on top of the back and put the two screws back in. The screws on my machine are not covered up by the end caps, but they are at a wierd angle, so I held the console up slighly and started the screws first. As they tightened down the console slid into the holes on the cabinet.
There is a small sppliance shop in my town & the guy loaned me the spanner wrench. It was very nice of him.I guess I will have to give his & his famil
Read less
-
Debra from Milton - Freewater, OR
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
37 of 45 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 14% of time
This kit comes with the clamps.
$
21.29
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334685
Manufacturer Part Number 285871
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Tub-to-Pump Hose Kit
Customer Repair Stories
hose leaking
Tried to follow videos. Couldn't figure how to raise top. Laid machine on front used pliers to unclip bracket and clips holding hose. Took 10 minutes to work it this way.
-
michael from BURBANK, IL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
pipe had a hole
I pulled the hose off and notice their was a part # and I went online and type the part # and showed the part and cost. I order it and receive it within 3days. when the part arrive I replace the hose in minutes. If I can do so can you its that easy.
-
eddie from lockesburg, AR
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
6 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 11% of time
This part is used to help control and balance the water temperature flowing in to the washer tub.
$
59.88
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11749042
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10144820
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Washer Water Inlet Valve with Thermistor
Customer Repair Stories
water would not shut off from running in to washer
contacted "just answer" on web. they diagnosed problem and suggested repair part. Ordered part from "part select". Great service and fast shipping from part select. Replaced part in 15 minutes and up and running! :)
-
Melanie from Farmersville, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench set
68 of 78 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
fill valve bad
took back off then removed valve replaced with new one works good
-
Barb from Blackriver Falls, WI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
126 of 187 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 10% of time
Sold Individually.
$
10.98
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746362
Manufacturer Part Number WP8546127
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Pump Retainer
Customer Repair Stories
Pump requires 2 retainers. I had 1 good retainer on the top and little tension on the bottom.
Pull the washer out away from the wall and tip back.
I used a small metal ammo box to hold up the washer.
The bottom pump retainer is easy reach and remove with a flat screwdriver. I was able to pry off with my hand.
Replace retainer insert into slots on drive motor and twist.
I used a pair of Channellock pliers to lif ... Read more t retainer while pressing along the
side till it snaped into place.
Remove the support box and put washer back.
Then tip washer forward to reset self-leveling mechanism.
I used a small metal ammo box to hold up the washer.
The bottom pump retainer is easy reach and remove with a flat screwdriver. I was able to pry off with my hand.
Replace retainer insert into slots on drive motor and twist.
I used a pair of Channellock pliers to lif ... Read more t retainer while pressing along the
side till it snaped into place.
Remove the support box and put washer back.
Then tip washer forward to reset self-leveling mechanism.
Read less
-
Frank from ROSWELL, NM
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Retainer clip for the pump missing, caused pump to fail
Pulled hoses off, unclipped the remaining retainer clip, slid old pump off. Slid new pump on replaced the old retainer clip and put the new one on, replaced the 2 hoses, done. It took mabey 10 min.
The part got there in less that 24 hours from the time I placed the order, with standard shipping! I was impressed.
The part got there in less that 24 hours from the time I placed the order, with standard shipping! I was impressed.
-
Matt from Roca, NE
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
4 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 8% of time
The hose clamp is used to hold the water hose in place which will prevent the hose from leaking water. Sometimes the clamp may lose its ability to latch on, causing a leaking washer. For the installation, you will need a flat head screw driver to replace the clamp and a drill to access the screws to remove the front of the washer. Be careful if you do not have specific clamp pliers as the clamp could fly off. Once the front of the washer has been removed, take a quick look for water damage or any obvious signs of where the leak is coming from. If it is not obvious, run water to test.
$
11.10
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11740613
Manufacturer Part Number WP285655
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Hose Clamp
Fixes Symptom 6% of time
This is an inner cap seal, but may also be known as an O-ring, and it is a part for your washing machine. Some symptoms replacing this part will fix include: leaking from your appliance, uncontrollable shaking and moving, loud noise, pumps but will not spin, or if your appliance will not agitate. This model is off-black in color and 3 inches in diameter. You will find this part inside the agitator in the middle of your washing machine. It is recommended to wipe down the barrier before putting the new seal on.
$
11.10
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11748108
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10072840
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Seal, Inner Cap
Customer Repair Stories
The cap thingy seal broke and splattered fabric softener.
I pulled out the old cap with my hands and jammed the new thingy into place. The lady of house did the repair. Easy
-
Diane from Corvallis, OR
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The seal in the upper agitator cap broke
I just unscrewed the top agitator cap and slid the o-ring on and put it back. Done in seconds.
-
Veronica L from Junction City, KS
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
0 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 4% of time
The O-Ring is included with this cap. It can be purchased separately as Part #WPW10072840.
$
11.10
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11748113
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10074580
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Agitator Cap Barrier with Seal
Customer Repair Stories
The seal was broken on the agitator cap barrier
Removed the fabric softner at the top of the agitator (needed a screw driver to pry it loose) and reached in to grab the barrier with my hand and pulled it out, very simple to do.When I put the new one in I put some liquid soap on the gasket and it snapped right into place.Very easy to do, all is well now, thanks Part Select.
-
Ralph from New Milford, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Found seal had split on agitator cap
I clean out the fabric softner dispenser on my machine on a regular basis and found the seal split. After looking at several sites to try and find this part, I found this one. Ordering couldn't have been easier and repair only required pulling up the cup for the softner and installing the cap.
Thanks for making finding part ... Read more so easy . . . .
Thanks for making finding part ... Read more so easy . . . .
Read less
-
Kim from Cleveland, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
3 of 4 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 4% of time
$
48.06
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11749880
Manufacturer Part Number WPW10189267
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer HOSE-DRAIN
Fixes Symptom 3% of time
Sold individually.
$
11.10
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11746747
Manufacturer Part Number WP8577376
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This seal is for the top of basket drive tube shaft.
$
11.14
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741857
Manufacturer Part Number WP356427
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This two piece oil seal kit comes in two pieces and is used for the gearcase input shaft of your washer.
$
49.04
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334494
Manufacturer Part Number 285352
12 Hose Clamp
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
Note: This part has been updated by the manufacturer. It may appear different but will still function the same as the original. The hose clamp is about 2 inches in diameter and made of stainless steel. A hose clamp generally attaches hoses and tubes to various equipment This part consists of a band and a screw that tightens along the slots when it is turned. This part works with washers, dishwashers, food waste disposers, and ice makers. This will need to be replaced if you notice leaking coming from the appliance.
$
9.81
Special Order
PartSelect Number PS11743289
Manufacturer Part Number WP616099
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
For upper outer tub ring assembly.
$
24.21
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11742157
Manufacturer Part Number WP3976308
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This part prevents the agitator shaft from leaking oil onto the transmission.
$
24.07
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741173
Manufacturer Part Number WP3349985
Customer Repair Stories
Slipping Spin clutch due to leaking gear-case seal.
1. Unplug the machine.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outl ... Read more et drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.
2. Turn the water off.
3. Disconnect the supply and discharge hoses.
4. Open the cover and remove the cap/cover of the agitator. Use socket wrench to remove the bolt securing the agitator. Pull up on the agitator and remove it.
5. Lay washing machine down on it's front. Remove the inlet and outl ... Read more et drain hoses from the discharge pump.
6. Remove the 2 "faston" connectors from the motor start capacitor (looks like a D cell flashlight battery). Rock the connectors back and forth and pull gently until they come off. Polarity doesn't matter but to be safe make note of the positions.
7. Press the release clip on the motor connector and pull to disconnect it. Move the wiring harness out of harms way.
8. Remove the 3 bolt securing the motor and transmission assembly to the bottom of the tub. Pull the drive assembly out of the machine and place it on a suitable work surface.
9. Examine the tub brake assembly (still on the bottom of the tub), the clutch assembly (on the motor/transmission assembly you just removed and everything else for wear or damage. Now if you decide to proceed with repair continue with the following steps. If not you're done.
10. Remove the inverted cup washer from the agitator shaft of the assembly. Remove the "U" clip from the shaft and remove the clutch mechanism from the drive assembly. Make a sketch of the position of each of the removed components to aid in reassembly.
11. Now you can see the gear case cover and it's seal. If it is leaking (as mine was) you will need to replace it.
12. With the assembly level remove the bolts around the cover and remove the cover. Place the cover on a flat surface and with a screwdriver or punch drive the old seal out of the cover from the outside in.
13. Clean the seal area and check for damage. Clean the cover and transmission housing surfaces of old gasket material. There is a factory sealant available for reassembly but I chose an automotive RTF @ $4 vs $24 and it worked OK.
14. Installing the seal requires some tools and experience to done successfully. The right size sockets or piece of pipe, coupled with an arbor press or vise will get the seal in. The cover is delicate so if in doubt find a machine shop.
15. Support the outside of the cover on a hard surface and with a socket or short pipe length, PRESS (don't hammer) the new seal into the gear case cover.
16. Make sure there is lubricant in the gear case. Not overflowing but maybe 1/2 full when view with cover off on a level surface.
17. Apply some RTV sealant to trhe cover and install it. Tighten bolts evenly. Light torque (1-2 ft-lb).
18. Reassemble washing machine and test for leaks and proper operation.
Read less
-
Thomas from Pascoag, RI
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
20 of 22 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 2% of time
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
$
7.04
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11741866
Manufacturer Part Number WP358237
Replacing your Kenmore Washer Agitator Bolt
Customer Repair Stories
The agitator had stopped working
We got the parts, watched your video a couple of times and then began the repair. It went well with one exception. None of my socket extensions were long enough to work well. The required length might be added to the video and the printed installation instructions. Also it would have nice to have been able to order a small tube of the rec
... Read more
ommended lubricant. Overall I was very pleased. Jack
Read less
-
Jack from Matthews, NC
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
could not get the bottom agitator to release, so finally just left it in place, first bolt I had did not fit right so ordered one directly from your store also had to wait dor my tools to get in
I am an old woman who is disabled and without any tools or knowledge, but sheer stubbornness and will power, I waited for my tools and other parts to come in, in the mean time I fixed my young neighbors whirlpool washer, well We took top off the nut I had already pre assembled her cam so set it in place of old one put bolt back in place a
... Read more
nd the top of agitator she says works perfectly now, my parts came in I had nothing to remove as my handicap daughter had already thrown away all the loose parts, I threw away old top agitator, assembled cam and put in place still did not feel tight enough so added seal from other nut!! it worked tight enough, put the inner part back in with new part and soap put the top back on and now works good as new, was disappointed could not put bottom agitator in place, just not strong enough lol well this was my story
Read less
-
Linda Dianne from Poteau, OK
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Socket set
1 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
16 Washer
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This part goes on the agitator retaining bolt.
$
7.69
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11742027
Manufacturer Part Number WP3949550
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Washer
Customer Repair Stories
agitator broke
very easy to repair , instructions very clear , parts person very good to talk to, parts got here fast
-
Joseph from Kalkaska, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Socket set
0 of 1 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could cause the load to be off-balance which can lead to excessive shaking, moving, noise, and leaks. For this repair, you will need a 1/4 nut driver, a putty knife, a flat blade screwdriver, and a pair of needle-nose pliers. Disconnect the power supply, fill hoses, and drain hose to give you safe and easy access (have a container nearby for water left in drain hose). This item is sold individually, which is important as you may need to repair multiple springs in your appliance, which carries three suspension springs. As an inexpensive part, we recommend purchasing several at a time, as they can be very useful to have on-hand.
$
8.00
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS11743345
Manufacturer Part Number WP63907
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Suspension Spring
Customer Repair Stories
Washer tub off balance and noisy
The repair was fairly simple and while it made the spin operation quieter and and a bit more stable, it still gets out of balance. Disconnected power, shutoff supply lines and disconnected them from the unit.
Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverag ... Read more e with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.
Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors
Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.
If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.
Laid washer on its front and replaced the two more visible springs fairly easily from underneath using a little leverag ... Read more e with a 2 x 4 to take any residual tension off the springs.
Then I turned the washer over on its back (gently and with a little support (board or old thick towel) so the weight of the unit didn't rest entirely on the water intake connectors
Again, lifted the tub with 2 x 4 and disconnected the power and control connector to the motor to make a little more room to get to the spring.
If you do this, be sure to re-connect that connector before you put the washer back and test, otherwise it will fill and then sit.... I had to siphon the tank out, disconnect everything, flip it over and re-connect that power connector!! After that the unit ran better than before, especially on the spin cycle. Over all this washer is 15 years old and worn a bit so we are still careful not to overload it and balance the loading as much as possible. Large bedspreads and king size sheets or mattress covers will always spin out of balance but for 90% of regular washing it was an improvement.
Read less
-
Gregory from Kent, OH
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers
9 of 10 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
tub off center, rubbing on outer tub in spin
turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring.
Washer works great now.
Washer works great now.
-
Charles from Rose Bud, AR
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers
21 of 24 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This assembly comes with one transmission stem seal, two center post bearings, and three agitator shaft seals.
$
83.41
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS334447
Manufacturer Part Number 285203
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This part holds the water during the wash cycle and houses the spin basket.
$
157.05
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS381245
Manufacturer Part Number 63849
20 SEAL
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
$
21.33
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS12070813
Manufacturer Part Number W11095997
21 Gearcase
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This is used in your direct drive washer that has a neutral drain.
$
379.68
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS341974
Manufacturer Part Number 3360629
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Gearcase
Customer Repair Stories
The spin gear was striped.
I had to take the motor and transmission out. They are one piece. Removed the clutch, take off trans. cover, remove a snap ring, take the striped gear off, and put the new one on. Then put put everything back on the way it came off.
-
Aaron from Lake Mills, WI
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Socket set
21 of 27 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
The washer wouldn't spin or agitate.
Frist I disconnected the water lines and power cord. Then I leaned the washer back against the wall. Removed the 2 pump retainers and then the pump. Next removed the 2 screws from the motor retainers and pulled off the retainers and motor. Then removed the 3 bolts from the Gear case. Then removed the cap from the top of the agitator with
... Read more
a flat screw driver. Then removed the bolt from the top of the gear shaft. and removed the auger and agitator assembly. Then removed the gear case from the washer. Next removed the slip ring and then the clutch from the top of the gear case. Next removed the 1/4" screws from cover of gear case and removed the cover. Found the top gear bad. Ordered the new gear and pinion kit. Couldn't find any part #'s to match what PartSelect had. Ordered the gear that they should that fit most washers. The pics they had up looked the same as the one that was bad. Had the new gear in 3 days put it back together and it still wouldn't work right. Took it apart again and looked at it and found a small clip on the bottom side of the gear was upside down. Fliped it over put the gear back in and ran the washer with the gear case out and it worked. Put it back together again. And learned a good lesson always watch how you take things apart for when it's time to put it back together!
Read less
-
david from Monroe, MI
-
Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
49 of 52 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Fixes Symptom 1% of time
This spring is used on the leveling components in a washer. Please note, this spring may differ in appearance, but functions the same as original.
$
11.14
In Stock
PartSelect Number PS394983
Manufacturer Part Number 8316845
Replacing your Whirlpool Washer Leveling Spring
Customer Repair Stories
Was heavily shaking.
Old machine and vibrations are still there but weaker. Seemed to turn counter clock wise. Put a 4x4 board behind in order to stop the twisting, and keep hoses safe from vibrating and causing wear. Stays fairly stable now.
-
Robert from LEWISTON, ID
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Washer tub goes out of balance in spin cycle.
Found leveling spring loose on bottom of washer, the sheet metal on bottom of cabinet ad rusted through. Drilled new hole in sheet metal and installed new leveling spring. Greased hole with blue marine grease so it will last another 40 years.
-
Dale from DOTHAN, AL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
3 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!