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MSF25D4XAB00
MSF25D4XAB00 Maytag Refrigerator - Overview
Sections of the MSF25D4XAB00
[Viewing 13 of 13]
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Refrigerator Door Shelf Bin
PartSelect #: PS11752778
Manufacturer #: WPW10321304
This manufacturer-certified Refrigerator Door Shelf Bin, also known as the crisper bin and door shelf bin, is made of clear plastic, and is easy to install. It is used to hold items in the fridge door...
$36.21
In Stock
Lower Door Closing Cam
PartSelect #: PS11739042
Manufacturer #: WP2182179
The lower door closing cam is used in refrigerator doors, it can be located on the fresh food side or the freezer side. It helps hold the door open. This cam is made out of plastic, so it might crack ...
$7.71
In Stock
Refrigerator Ice and Water Filter
PartSelect #: PS11701542
Manufacturer #: EDR1RXD1
This is an OEM replacement ice and water filter for your refrigerator. In side-by-side refrigerators, it is found in the top right corner or the bottom left grille. In bottom-freezer refrigerators, th...
$103.96
In Stock
Refrigerator Crisper Drawer With Handle
PartSelect #: PS11739122
Manufacturer #: WP2188664
This OEM, clear convertible meat drawer can be used to store meats or vegetables and is designed for the lower portion of your refrigerator, generally. It has its own cold air duct to allow cold air f...
$65.65
In Stock
Refrigerator Slide-Out Shelf with Glass
PartSelect #: PS11751713
Manufacturer #: WPW10276348
$185.37
In Stock
Ice Bin Auger Drum
PartSelect #: PS372186
Manufacturer #: 4388736
This white ice bin auger drum comes with a washer.
$53.27
In Stock
Capacitor
PartSelect #: PS11757023
Manufacturer #: WPW10662129
This capacitor (Refrigerator and Freezer Compressor Run Capacitor, Run Capacitor) provides the voltage or energy current required to start the compressor and keep it running. It allows the compressor ...
$79.16
In Stock
Bi-Metal Defrost Thermostat
PartSelect #: PS11750673
Manufacturer #: WPW10225581
If you have ice building up in your freezer, or if your freezer is getting too warm during the defrost cycle you may need to replace the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The function of the defrost bi-met...
$46.59
In Stock
Refrigerator Shelf Frame with Glass
PartSelect #: PS11751711
Manufacturer #: WPW10276341
$183.96
In Stock
Ice Bucket
PartSelect #: PS11757044
Manufacturer #: WPW10670845
Bucket only. All other parts sold separately. This part holds the ice once it's released from the icemaker.
$102.59
In Stock
Crisper Cover with Glass
PartSelect #: PS4082908
Manufacturer #: W10508993
This part is also known as a shelf frame. This drawer cover is for refrigerators.
Drawer cover has rail brackets under the cover that hold the drawer and allow the drawer to slide in and out on th...
$138.21
In Stock
Refrigerator Shelf Glass
PartSelect #: PS11731733
Manufacturer #: W10864399
This is the glass panel only. The frame is sold separately.
$123.43
In Stock
Questions And Answers for MSF25D4XAB00
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Common Symptoms of the MSF25D4XAB00
[Viewing 22 of 22]Door won’t open or close
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Fridge too warm
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Noisy
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Ice maker won’t dispense ice
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Light not working
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Freezer section too warm
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Clicking sound
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Fridge and Freezer are too warm
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Ice maker not making ice
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Will Not Start
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Leaking
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Freezer not defrosting
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Too warm
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Not dispensing water
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Frost buildup
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Fridge too cold
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Door Sweating
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Freezer too cold
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Fridge runs too long
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Ice maker dispenses too much ice
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Ice maker dispenses too little ice
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Won’t start
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
My refrigerator stopped cooling and the freezer section stopped freezing
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck le
... Read more
t's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
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Parts Used:
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garth from forest lake, MN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
394 of 474 people
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Plastic bits dispensed from Ice Dispenser in Door
Removed Ice bin from Fridge
Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six
Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod
Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.
Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft
Remov ... Read more ed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order
Removed Ice propeller and installed new part
Put back together in opposite order
Easy
Removed all bolts on bin with nut driver...about six
Removed housing...be careful with spring on crusher/cube control rod
Removed C clamp on end of auger with small slotted screw driver and needle nose pliers.
Removed plastic nut on end of auger shaft
Remov ... Read more ed Ice crusher jaws and laid them out in the correct order
Removed Ice propeller and installed new part
Put back together in opposite order
Easy
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Parts Used:
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john from seaford, VA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
202 of 238 people
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Fridge was getting too warm, ice buildup on coils.
WARNING: REPLACING THIS PART REQUIRES CUTTING AND SPLICING ELECTRICAL WIRES. RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE. DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS REPAIR IF YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCED WITH ELECTRICAL WIRING.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
Part Info:
The bi-metal strip is clipped onto the evaporator coils and is designed to regulate the defrost coil temperature. If it is n ... Read more ot functioning properly you may notice ice buildup preventing air flow (and preventing proper refrigeration), or more rarely the freezer side may get too warm during the defrost cycle.
Materials:
* Replacement bi-metal strip
* Wire cutters
* Wire strippers
* Wire nuts
* Electrical tape
* 10MM socket
Steps:
1: UNPLUG THE FRIDGE! If there is ice buildup, wait until the ice has melted. A box fan blowing at the ice will help melt it more quickly.
2: Remove the panel covering the evaporator coils. It's located inside the fridge, on the freezer side.
3: Un-clip the bi-metal strip from the evaporator coils.
4: Unplug the wires from the evaporator fan, defrost coil and bi-metal strip, then disconnect the main connector that is plugged into the rear wall.
5: Clip both wires to the old ( bad ) bi-metal strip. Cut close to the casing of the bi-metal strip so there are long wires to splice onto.
6: Strip 1/4 to 1/2 inches of insulation off of the ends of the wires ( depending on the size of the wire-nuts you use). Twist the bare wires slightly to prevent fraying.
7: Do the same for the ends of the wires on the (new) bi-metal strip.
8: Take the ends of the wires belonging to the (new) bi-metal strip and the wires coming from the main plug. Take the like-colored wires, and twist the bare metal ends together.
9: Twist on wire nuts, for both sets of wires. Make sure they are snug, with no bare wire showing.
10: Tape over the wire nuts with electrical tape. Tape over the wires nuts in a spiral fashion, completely covering the nut and both wires that are now spliced together. This will prevent accidental shorting.
11: Plug the main plug back into the rear wall of the fridge. Also re-connect the connectors to the evaporator fan and defrost coil. Make sure the clips on the connectors are snug to ensure a good connection.
12: Clip the new bi-metal strip onto the coils, in the same spot as before. ( Usually just after the small incoming copper tubing that connects to the coils, known as the expansion valve. That is usually the coldest spot on the coils during operation).
13: Replace the panel that covers the coils.
14: Plug the fridge back in... Now you fridge should defrost correctly. If it does not, your defrost coil could be burned out, or the control board could be faulty.
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Parts Used:
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Cathy from Winter Park, FL
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
154 of 178 people
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