This Defrost Timer works like a clock by switching on the defrost heater circuit after a predetermined amount of compressor run time. This allows the defrost circuit to clear the evaporator of ice or ...
$38.64
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This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and o...
This white door shelf bar is approximately 31 inches long and provides storage space on your refrigerator door. If it becomes loose, cracked, or detached, it needs to be replaced. A damaged shelf bar ...
$43.89
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The run capacitor helps the compressor kick on and off while maintaining a constant temperature in your fridge and freezer. You may need to replace your run capacitor if your refrigerator or freezer s...
$53.53
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This OEM 40 watt appliance light bulb is used for some ranges, refrigerators, freezers, and microwaves. Simply locate the existing bulb, unscrew it from its socket, and replace with new light bulb. If...
$19.73
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This limiter thermostat cuts out when the temperature inside your refrigerator reaches 55 degrees Fahrenheit and kicks back in when the internal temperature drops to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. If you disc...
$22.68
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This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and o...
$15.04
In Stock
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This is the door shelf end cap for your refrigerator. It connects to the refrigerator door and keeps the door bar in place. Your refrigerator will have two shelf end caps, one for the right side and o...
$9.91
In Stock
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The evaporator fan motor kit is specifically made for your refrigerator to run the evaporator fan in your refrigerator. It is mounted on the center hub and has three lead wire terminals; its shaft has...
$101.85
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This evaporator fan blade is a genuine OEM part that is sourced directly from the manufacturer. The evaporator fan blade circulates air through the refrigerator to control the amount of cold air goes ...
$47.83
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The light socket on your refrigerator houses the light bulb and connects it to the power source. If you notice that your refrigerator light does not come on when you open the door, you may need to rep...
$21.98
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Questions And Answers for MRT13CRBW2
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Joseph
December 28, 2022
Old Viking Refrigerator model no. mrt13crbw2 manufactured 09 1995 is leaking water into bottom of fridge below crisper
For model number MRT13CRBW2
Hi Joseph, thank you for reaching out. The water is either going to come from your ice maker system or, more likely, from one of the drain lines being blocked. Turn off the water to your refrigerator and see if the unit continues to leak. If not, then you know the ice maker system is leaking or the defrost drain gets blocked and then freezes. So instead of the water draining into the pan, it drips into the bottom of the freezer, then freezes and leaks out of the bottom of the freezer. You can use a turkey baster or plastic syringe with hot water to flush it out. Another problem can be that the fridge is not properly leveled and is preventing the water from draining through the drain. You can confirm that the fridge is level by placing a level on the body of the fridge and adjusting the feet as needed. Another cause may be that the door on the fridge or freezer is not sealing well. This will cause excessive condensation. You will need to check the freezer door gasket, part number PS473582, and the fresh food door gasket, part number PS428564. You may also need to inspect the defrost thermostat, part number PS469269, and the defrost timer, part number PS423801. Please reach out to customer service if you need help placing an order. Glad to be of help!
Fridge is a side by side. The freezer is pretty narrow for a guy with wide shoulders.
Pulled plug.
Had to remove bottom drawers then used nut driver to remove screws closest to back wall in drawer runners. Once the back screws were removed the runners could be swung up or down out of way so back cover could be re
... Read moremoved.
Once back cover was removed thermostat was located attached to top pipe going into coil using a spring clamp.
Cut the wires just outside the crimp connectors going into thermostat. Released the spring clamp buy squeezing botton together.
Removed old badly corroded thermostat.
I wish I had attached the crimp connectors to the new thermostat wires before mounting it. Reaching way in the back, while turning shoulders verticly and trying to get the wire connectors set from both sides was awkward and uncomfortable...The biggest PIA of the whole task.
Once connected I let the fridge (thermostat) cool for 10 min. Turned the dial defrost timer to get it into defrost mode. Stupidly touched the heating element to see if it was getting warm...it was very hot.
Coils steamed...every looked like it was working. Unplugged, put back cover back on and retattached drawer mounts.
1. Removed the 7 nuts using the nut driver from the freezer back panel inside the freezer. 2. Remove the back panel. The evaporator motor and fan are located above the coils. 3. Unplug the wiring harness. 4. Remove the two gold mounting screws holding the motor and fan in place. 5. Remove the motor and fan including th
... Read moree brackets. 6. Install the new motor and fan onto the mounting bracket. 6a. Attach the green ground to the mounting bracket. 7. Screw the two gold screws back into the freezer. 8. Attach the new wiring harness. Note, the old harness had a mounting hole/space for it to connect to the wiring harness of the freezer. The new motor's harness was not long enough for this, so it is connected freely to the freezer harness. 9. Use the hair dryer to melt any ice that may have formed on the coils and hole where the fan goes. 10. Turn the freezer on to see if the fan turns on. 11. Reinstall the back panel. All done!
UNPLUG REFRIGERATOR. Carefully remove relay from the side of the compressor. You shouldn't need a tool to do this, if it is hard you can gently pry the edge with a flat head screw driver just to loosen. Unplug white and red wires from relay, noting that the white wire goes in the hole with a #2 stamped beside it. Shake old relay, if it r
... Read moreattles like a baby rattler then it's most likely the problem. Replace wires into the new relay and plug back into the compressor.