Models > MLC275CW4

MLC275CW4 General Electric Washer - Overview

Sections of the MLC275CW4

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Drive Belt – Part Number: WE03X29897
Drive Belt
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(168)
PartSelect #: PS16542496
Manufacturer #: WE03X29897
This Drive Belt is 89.5" long and comes in black, featuring four ribs on the inside for a better grip. This is a long belt that wraps all the way around the dryer drum, around a tension pulley, and th...
$36.13
  In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
Upper Drum Glide – Part Number: 5303937139
Upper Drum Glide
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(28)
PartSelect #: PS470317
Manufacturer #: 5303937139
The upper drum glide is attached to the front panel of your dryer, you can locate it by removing the top portion of your dryer. The drum glide allows the drum to rotate with ease and little sound. The...
$34.80
  In Stock
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Door Strike – Part Number: 5303207102
Door Strike
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(7)
PartSelect #: PS455020
Manufacturer #: 5303207102
The door strike is attached to the door of your dryer and holds the door closed. If your dryer door is not closing, this might be due to the door strike needing to be replaced. This is a simple repair...
$16.13
  In Stock
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Heater Assembly – Part Number: 131475320
Heater Assembly
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PartSelect #: PS2378363
Manufacturer #: 131475320
This dryer heating assembly has 5/16" terminal on the housing.
$175.15
  In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
DRYER LINT FILTER – Part Number: WE16X29397
DRYER LINT FILTER
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(9)
PartSelect #: PS12741280
Manufacturer #: WE16X29397
This is the replacement lint filter for your dryer. The lint filter traps unwanted lint and debris so your dryer can effectively dry your clothes.
  No Longer Available
Tension Idler Pulley – Part Number: 131862900
Tension Idler Pulley
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(5)
PartSelect #: PS418897
Manufacturer #: 131862900
The idler pulley on your washing machine allows the drive belt to operate smoothly. If your washer is not spinning or agitating, makes too much noise, or you notice a burning smell when it is operatin...
  No Longer Available
Drain Hose – Part Number: 131461200
Drain Hose
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PartSelect #: PS417877
Manufacturer #: 131461200
This drain hose is designed for use in your washer. The function of this part is to carry water from the drain pump to the house drain. If your washer is leaking or will not drain, you may need to rep...
$20.58
  In Stock
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Washer Lid Lock with External Safety Switch – Part Number: 134101800
Washer Lid Lock with External Safety Switch
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(1)
PartSelect #: PS648775
Manufacturer #: 134101800
Mounting bracket on this part replaces old style ( You may need to drill off old bracket before mounting new lock).
  No Longer Available
IDLER ARM Assembly – Part Number: 5304507499
IDLER ARM Assembly
PartSelect #: PS11775626
Manufacturer #: 5304507499
This idler pulley assembly is a manufacturer-approved replacement part for your washer/dryer. The assembly includes the idler pulley and arm. The idler pulley provides tension for the belt to rotate t...
$33.13
  In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
Timer Knob – Part Number: 131859104
Timer Knob
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(3)
PartSelect #: PS418891
Manufacturer #: 131859104
This knob accepts a D-shaped shaft.
$59.69
  In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
Water Level Switch – Part Number: 134422700
Water Level Switch
PartSelect #: PS1146954
Manufacturer #: 134422700
$82.53
  In Stock
Order within the next 10 hrs and your part ships today!
Rear Bearing Shaft Support – Part Number: WE13X10011
Rear Bearing Shaft Support
PartSelect #: PS265828
Manufacturer #: WE13X10011
$112.06
  On Order

Questions And Answers for MLC275CW4

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Michelle
July 22, 2021
Our dryer keeps making a loud screeching high pitched sound when it’s on. This started about two washes ago and I don’t know how to stop it. Could it be the strip between the spinner that needs to be replaced? Please help.
For model number MLC275CW4
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Hello Michelle, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking the Rear Bearing Shaft Support and the Belt for wear or damage. We hope this helps!

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Common Symptoms of the MLC275CW4

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Noisy
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Marks left on clothes
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Door won’t close
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Leaking
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Drum Not Spinning
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Will not drain
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Will not agitate
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Burning smell
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Won’t Start
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Will Not Start
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Spins slowly
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Drum glide wore down and caused close to get stuck between drum and front panel.
Unpluged dryer. Removed the top of dryer by pushing in a retaining clip on both sides of the front lip with a screw driver. Remove the two screws on both sides of front panel. These screws are square head or phillips #2. Unplugged the wiring harness to front panel (make sure power has been disconnected). Support drum and lean front panel away from dryer body. Front panel will pull off of tabs at bottom. The old drum glide is fiberous and hard to remove. I removed most of it with the pliers, but had to carefully scrape the balance of the glide off with the wood chisel. The adhesive that comes with the repair part has an acetone base, so I used acetone (or you could use nail polish remover) to remove the old adhesive. Once the acetone has dried, I applied an 1/8" snaking bead of adhesive to the front panel. There is more adhesive in the tube than you need so do not use too much. Make sure that you get adhesive as close to the base of the lower seal as you can. Follow directions on adhesive tube and then attach the glide. I let it set up for about 30 seconds. Place the front panel back on the tabs of the dryer. Carefully lift the drum an fit it on the front panel and insert the two screws holding the panel to the base. Reconnect the wiring harness and make sure it is not in contact with the drum. Check to make sure that all of the electrical connectors on the timer are still in place. Reassemble the dryer. Reconnect power.
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide
  • William from Boise, ID
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
182 of 250 people found this instruction helpful.
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Drum belt broke
Removed the front Dryer panel. Left drum in place and lifted it up slightly to get access to motor drive. Slipped belt in place and put panel back on.
This was a first attempt ever at fixing an appliance and it was no big deal.
Parts Used:
Drive Belt
  • Adrian from Middletown, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
184 of 264 people found this instruction helpful.
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Leaking washing machine; water would not shut off on fill up and rinse
Replacing the switch is relatively easy, however, I would caution all experiencing similar problems one thing. Before assuming, as I did, that the switch was bad, first remove the panel of the washer that houses the washing tub/basin. On the back of the tub, check to make sure that the tube connecting the tub and switch has not come off from the tub as it did in my situation. The solution to my problem of a leaking washing machine where the water would not stop filling on both wash and rinse cycles was simply reattaching the tube to the tub. If I would have checked that first, total job completion time would have been under 15 minutes. Hope this helps. If you need to replace the actual switch, remove the knobs, screws, and panel. Remove the wires, tube, and screw from the switch and reassemble new switch. That took me about 30-45 minutes.
Parts Used:
Water Level Switch
  • Aaron from Williamson, WV
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
91 of 102 people found this instruction helpful.
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